Blurring Water and the Sky to Create Motion..?

Hodders said:
Can you explain what you mean by this ?
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For in depth science, read here:
http://www.luminous-landscape.com/tutorials/resolution.shtml
I summarized this below

As explained by MK, the maximum theoretical resolution of an APS-C sensor shot at f/11 with green light the max resolution is about 7MP. A few other factors come into play, such as the beyler filter and AA filter. Thom Hogan has an article where he subjectively measured the diffraction limit of top quality glass on sensors of different resolution.
This is where a value of about f/11 comes in for a 12Mp sensor, rather than f/8

But the drop off in resolution with aperture is very strong.
Consider that with green light at f2.8 you could theoretically achieve 107MP, which by f/11 you are restricted to 7MP.

So try to stick to F/11 or less
 
Should the Hyperfocal Distance be used for all shots to get plenty of focus then?

Would this then render the AF on my A200 useless as to use Hyperfocal Distance would mean manual focusing?
 
You can still use autofocus, just aim at the point you want to use for hyperfocal focusing, and then switch it to manual so that it doesn't refocus when you frame the shot. Also, reading 'Understanding Exposure' is a very good idea, it will help you with understanding F numbers.
 
jr1104 said:
You can still use autofocus, just aim at the point you want to use for hyperfocal focusing, and then switch it to manual so that it doesn't refocus when you frame the shot. Also, reading 'Understanding Exposure' is a very good idea, it will help you with understanding F numbers.
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Theres a few called that. Whos the author?
 
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1 second at f5 or so. Using an ND grad and a ND stacked to try and make the sky less disastrous.

BeckyFallsWeb.jpg


2/3 of a second, f18, was a much sunnier day so even with the ND I had to tighten the aperture.

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3 seconds, f22. Forgot the ND that time I think but it wasn't a very bright day.
 
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Understanding Exposure: How to Shoot Great Photographs with a Film or Digital Camera by Bryan Peterson (Paperback - 1 Aug 2004)
 
haha, I was at that place (which i can't name because it's censored on here!) the other day - I'll add an image on here later when I get the chance.

Basically as has already been said, an ND filter is the key so you can avoid using above f/11 whilst maintaining a long exposure. The B+W 110 ND filter is great because it gives 10 stops, problem is they are extremely hard to get hold of right now and prices have rocketed due to supply/demand.
 
oli collett said:
The B+W 110 ND filter is great because it gives 10 stops, problem is they are extremely hard to get hold of right now and prices have rocketed due to supply/demand.
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They are bloody expensive!!!! :eek:
Cheapest i can find it is £80 for the B+W 77mm ND-110 (3.0) SH Filter

Is that the one i should be looking at getting as there are a few ND-110's....
 
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photoshop said:
Should i get the B+W 77mm ND-110 (3.0) SH Filter ????
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That's the one you want if you want silky smooth water. Its a 10 stop ND so will require pretty long exposure times. Really nice filter though. All my filters are now B&W as they top quality. If long exposures is something you are into, then the B+W 77mm ND-110 is well worth the money. :)
 
Messiah Khan said:
That's the one you want if you want silky smooth water. Its a 10 stop ND so will require pretty long exposure times. Really nice filter though. All my filters are now B&W as they top quality. If long exposures is something you are into, then the B+W 77mm ND-110 is well worth the money. :)
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Thanks.

Whats about these:

B+W 77mm ND-106 (1.8) SH Filter (reduces light by 6 f stops)
B+W 77mm ND-102 (0.6) SH Filter (reduce slight by 2 f stops)
B+W 77mm ND-102 MRC (0.6) SH Filter (reduce slight by 2 f stops)

?
 
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