BMW Engine Oil (118D)

Butters said:
Its only one weight grade up on 0W40, 0W40 and 5W40 are actually the same consistency. Its only the freezing point that differs.
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And the centistoke values (by quite a margin) for the cooler operating region (ie below 60C.)

[/having a clue off]
 
Butters said:
I agree and disagree i'm afraid. I can't see their being any problem whatsoever using a 5w or 10w as these are both listed as approved by BMW even more so for their higher mileage engines.

As an engine wears it loosens up. The gap between piston rings & pistons becomes slightly increased and a thinner oil will be more likely to pass through these gaps and into the upper area of the cylinder. This increases the black smoke produced and the amount of oil consumed.

Its a common misconception that 10W oils are somehow lower tech and therefore lower protection than 0W oils. This is complete nonsense. Sure the 0W oil will freeze at -50 as opposed to -38 or so. If it gets that cold, I'll be leaving the country. It'll allow changes every 30k miles.

It increases fuel economy by less than 1%. How does it achieve that increase? By reduced friction on the oil bearing surfaces due to the thinner oil. This is also why the engine is noisier when run on thin oil.

10W40 may have a shorter drain interval but its still way above 7500 miles. It stays slightly thicker at operating temp thereby reducing noise. Its only one weight grade up on 0W40, 0W40 and 5W40 are actually the same consistency. Its only the freezing point that differs.
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I was involved in the development of the latest 0w30 with BMW...
 
Butters said:
Yet you don't know the engine model number correctly or was that a typo? :o
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lol

your picking a fight with the wrong man. He's telling the truth and he's prooved this time and time again. Don't come to motors often do you ?
 
Not looking to pick a fight at all.

Just curious, my oil knowledge is reasonably good and I see no benefit in using 0w over 5w unless Castrol are paying BMW the right amount of £££ to push it.

Also, wheres my router :p
 
Butters said:
Yet you don't know the engine model number correctly or was that a typo? :o
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Well it is the M47TUE2 but whenever I rang the dealers for parts they got confused unless I refered to it as the N47.
 
Simon said:
Well it is the M47TUE2 but whenever I rang the dealers for parts they got confused unless I refered to it as the N47.
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:rolleyes: @ dealers :)

Simon, I'm surprised to hear that the balancer shafts sit in the oil, this would imply that the balance lobes would be splashing through the oil and whilst this may aid splashing lubricant up into the upper reaches of the block if so designed, it would also lead to heavy aeration, too.

Is this normal?
 
Butters said:
:rolleyes: @ dealers :)

Simon, I'm surprised to hear that the balancer shafts sit in the oil, this would imply that the balance lobes would be splashing through the oil and whilst this may aid splashing lubricant up into the upper reaches of the block if so designed, it would also lead to heavy aeration, too.

Is this normal?
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Its more an issue of packaging. The sump is quite a nice place to put the balancer shafts and allows a more compact engine design.

0w are generally ' higher tech' in that to get such lower CCS values (cold cranking) you need synthetic formulations. Admittedly you still need a decent chemistry pack within the formulation. I agree in most cases though a 10w is fine in this country, and the thicker base oil helps with oil consumption.

However with this engine ,heavy aeration isn't any more of an issue than camshafts, the balancers are submerged in the oil. For this reason an engine with 10w40 oil that has been soot thickened after 25k+ miles in the sump may run into issues when starting on a cold winters day.

Remember this is an oil for everyone, everywhere, compromises have to be made.
 
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