Boarding a Loft?

Gimpymoo

Gimpymoo

Gimpymoo

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I wish to board my loft although have a few questions if someone could kindly answer:

Would these be OK?
http://www.diy.com/diy/jsp/bq/nav/nav.jsp?action=detail&fh_secondid=9276266&fh_location=%2f%2fcatalog01%2fen_GB&fh_search=loft+board&fh_eds=%c3%9f&fh_refview=search&ts=1195005156117&isSearch=true

Am I best to screw or nail to the joist?
I would have thought screws, if so, what size?

There is currently some VERY VERY thin insulation between the joists, could I put some new insulation on top of it THEN board over the insulation?

I need a deecent cordless screwdriver for doing this. Have a budget of about £100. Would this be acceptable:

http://www.screwfix.com/app/sfd/cat/pro.jsp?id=87486&ts=05835

Also, I need a cheapish infra-red "Tape" Measure to work out the amount of flooring as dont want to be clambering over the joists with a tape measure.

Second thoughts, one with a range of more than 6 meters is over a £100.

Thanks for any advice.
 
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When we did ours, we used those same boards. We screwed all ours down as it gives a better bond (and was quieter). I bought a challenge extreme cordless drill/driver from argos as its better to have 2 batteries and have one on charge as you are using the other. Plus, dewalt are very expensive.

You will have to predrill and countersink for the screws, so thats a bit extra work again. Its easier if you have 2 people, as one can be drilling and csking while the other is screwing (bud-um-ding). The screws just need to be as long as you need them, about 1 1/2" (38.1mm) long. Screwfix do some good trade packs in bulk.
 
If you're going to get a drill then this Makita one is probably your best bet.

Predrilling is where you drill a smaller diameter hole into the boards & joists first to prevent the wood splitting out.

Countersinking is where you drill a hole into the boards so the screw heads sit flush or below the surface. Then if you decide to plaster or wallpaper them they don't show through.
 
Gimpymoo said:
Excuse my dumbness, but what does that mean?
Click to expand...

Predrilling = Drilling a hole so all the screwing is doing is forming the threads in the wood.

Countersinking = Forming an angled end to the hole, so the screws will fit flush against the surface of the wood. If you don't understand my overly simple explanation just check wikipedia. :p
 
Gimpymoo said:
Excuse my dumbness, but what does that mean?
Click to expand...

No offence, but if you don't know what they mean, then I would probably start with some smaller jobs to gain some basic DIY skills and work your way up to a reasonably big job such as loft boards, as mistakes with joists could be rather expensive...
 
I used the Wickes version of those boards (almost identical in every respect). I used 1.5" wood screws (Wickes too) and screwed into the joists. I previously installed some insulation from B&Q which is essentially covered in foil so until you have to cut it there is no fibre glass dust (which I hate). You'll need to lay one board, then measure/cut/fit the next as they interlock. I drilled the holes for the crews, used a countersink bit and then used a cordless drill to fit the screws. I was lucky that I was able to borrow to extra cordless drills so I didn't have to change bits all the time (drill, countersink & sscrew bit).
My attic is now a treat. I have re-arranged all the stuff up there (had a mighty clear out too), re-wired to fit better, low energy lights, added a couple of power sockets, a freeview aerial and fitted the electrics for the bathroom fan assembly I installed. All-in-all, for my first major DIY job I'm well chuffed.
 
Gimpymoo said:
Would these be OK?
Click to expand...
Should be fine. I used the same stuff (B&Q) and it's pretty decent.
Am I best to screw or nail to the joist?
I would have thought screws, if so, what size?
Click to expand...
Screw. It's quieter, more controlled and easier to take up if you have to in the future.

There is currently some VERY VERY thin insulation between the joists, could I put some new insulation on top of it THEN board over the insulation?
Click to expand...
Yes. Now is the time to re-insulate, re-wire or have a general tidy up before you lay flooring over it all.

Also, I need a cheapish infra-red "Tape" Measure to work out the amount of flooring as dont want to be clambering over the joists with a tape measure.
Click to expand...
Just use a normal tape measure and be careful. As long as you only step on the joists you should have no problems. Or buy a pack of the flooring, lay a few down and use them to walk on (be careful not to step on an end of one though, it hurts when it smacks you in the knee and you might out your foot through the ceiling!).


Top Tip: get a red pencil and mark out the position of any cabling or piping that you will be covering up. Then you'll know where not to screw/nail in the future.
 
Don't know where in the country you are but in my loft we have about 5 or 6 loft boards that look roughly 5ft x 2ft. I'm getting a loft conversion done next year so they need to be disposed of.
If you think that they would be any good and fancy picking them up (Southport NW England) you can have them.

I can take photos if you're interested, just let me know :)
 
If you are going to use it for anything other than storage, make sure that the joists are strong enough as ceiling joists are not as strong as floor joists. You may also want to check your insurance as one place that I lived in specifically prohibited the use of roof space for anything at all because of insurance regs.
 
you have consulted your architect and surveyor to see if your house foundations can stand the extra weight?
 
Am only using for storage of light-medium weight boxes so do not think that would be necessery.

I am not adding any plastered walls or such.
 
While the boards you've linked to will do you fine, it's amazing how quickly a loft will swallow pack after pack. If your loft hatch is big enough, you can get much larger boards which speed up installation immensely.

Installation is pretty straightforward. As mentioned, stick in additional insulation beforehand (avoiding any lightfitting, esp high voltage downlighters like GU10s which may be recessed into the loft space.

Make sure you know where all the lighting circuits for the floor below run - it would be BAD to screw into them :)

When laying the boards, you may well need a jigsaw/saw/cutting tool of somekind. You want both ends of the board to be resting on joists if possible (halfway onto the joist, to allow other boards to butt up to them and also be supported), so may need to trim lengths to get the best finish (and also cut around trusses etc).

Get the boards laid in roughly the correct location (perpendicular to the joists - best to start at the loft hatch and work outwards) - drill pilot holes slightly smaller than the screw size (I usually use chipboard screws, 1.5" should be plenty long enough), countersink the holes (be gentle as new/sharp countersink + chipboard = half inch hole down to joist if you're over-enthusiastic!) to prevent screwheads protruding and then LOOSELY screw the first board down.

Don't pull each board up tight until you've got the next one slotted into the tongue & groove of the preceding board, otherwise you'll have to loosen it up again to slot it in.

I usually have at least two cordless drills to hand - preferably three, as swapping between drill/countersink/driver bits again and again and again is hugely annoying.
 
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You can buy Pilot and countersink all in one bit now for common sizes e.g. No8, they arn't cheap though about 6 quid, saves a lot of time though especially if you havent got 2 drills/drivers
 
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My next question is how do you install a loft ladder without pulling the joists down?

Also, regarding measuring, can I just not measure the floor space of the ground floor?
 
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PhillyDee said:
You will have to predrill and countersink for the screws, so thats a bit extra work again. Its easier if you have 2 people, as one can be drilling and csking while the other is screwing (bud-um-ding). The screws just need to be as long as you need them, about 1 1/2" (38.1mm) long. Screwfix do some good trade packs in bulk.
Click to expand...

Not really necessary, I'd buy some plasterboard screws http://www.knighton-tools.co.uk/acatalog/Dry_Wall_Screws.html and then when you do them up with the cordless drill they pull in flush. Using chip board this should be fine as it is much less likely to split than floorboards. Mind you I've done floorboards like this without an issue. When you think of the number of screws involved pre-drilling and countersinking is going to take an age. Failing that I'd nail it for speed with the nail gun.
 
Is the consensus that a good drill is a worthwhile purchase instead of a £35 jobby?

What would the consequences of a cheap drill be?
 
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