Boarding and plastering help

sigma

sigma

sigma

Caporegime
Joined
13 Nov 2006
Posts
31,492
Right, at some point this month year I am likely to be boarding and plastering a stud wall which I am currently building.

I'm trying to plan ahead so that I get the wall correct now before I start chopping plasterboard up.

I'm going to have to cut around some radiator pipework, my thought is that instead of drilling a hole through the board, I'll cut the board so that the pipes sit in between two boards, as per red line in photo below (left hand side of photo, right hand side is OK.

Is that the best way to do it? I don't really want to faff around taking valves off and then manouvering the pipe through the board.

DfH1gwI.jpg


If I do go ahead with the red line, this then adds more joins/weak areas to the board.

So should the following boards be place vertically (blue) or horizontally (green)? Drawing is not to scale.

Blue is the easier and quicker option, but green strikes me as the better option?

I'll also be DIY'ing the plastering, for the first time ever, so saving the rest of the thread for that and some dot and dab advice on the other wall.
 
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I seem to recall that three blues will fit side by side, would stagger them in terms of height though.
 
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I can't wait for this job to be over, and people visit, and you stand in awe at this pretty bog standard wall you've dedicated so many hour of your life to.

I didn't quite understand but I get that blue/green aren't to scale. If the wall is going to leave a weird small bit, do blue. If it is going to be fine, and just have horizontal joins, do green
 
dlockers said:
I can't wait for this job to be over, and people visit, and you stand in awe at this pretty bog standard wall you've dedicated so many hour of your life to.
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:D

We all have to start somewhere though :) and it's worth doing it properly as part of it will be tiled (just an enclosure). I thought you're supposed to minimise the amount of joins in one line, to aim for it to look a bit like brickwork.
 
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sigma said:
:D

We all have to start somewhere though :) and it's worth doing it properly as part of it will be tiled (just an enclosure). I thought you're supposed to minimise the amount of joins in one line, to aim for it to look a bit like brickwork.
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If the wall isn't big enough,.just horizontal joins are fine.
 
dlockers said:
If the wall isn't big enough,.just horizontal joins are fine.
Click to expand...

I think it is big enough for either way. It will just add another day (week!) on to build time :D I do think it's better/easier/quicker to pay someone to do it but trying to get hold of someone good is impossible.
 
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Semple said:
You'll want to do blue, the green will leave a massive area of weakness, unless you're putting something behind it.
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It will be screwed in as per the Marmox spec (so more studs than shown).

I now think blue is the best option, as I need to cut mounts in the blue section for the rad supports, you can sort of see the trace on the wall above the rad pipework and below the green line where the noggin for the bottom rad support used to sit here:
Dp87LVD.jpg
 
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I would also add some more noggings to that wall before finishing.
I like to do 40cm centres and try and add some more clips for the pipes.
 
aVdub said:
I would also add some more noggings to that wall before finishing.
I like to do 40cm centres and try and add some more clips for the pipes.
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Yeah it's nowhere near finished, I'm literally planning where to put the noggins, that's why I started the thread, to plan where I'm going to fit noggins so I can do them all in one go.

Marmox suggest if using 600 centres they need to be screwed in the middle also. Three rows of screws iirc.

I'll also be adding a stud for fixing the shower door to.
 
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if the wall will be prouder than before (sisters ...) will the radiator tails need any soldering adjustment, or, enough play

- the noggins and sisters are all screwed in are they with a pilot hole through one piece ? dlockers, you have a nail gun. ?
 
jpaul said:
if the wall will be prouder than before (sisters ...) will the radiator tails need any soldering adjustment, or, enough play

- the noggins and sisters are all screwed in are they with a pilot hole through one piece ? dlockers, you have a nail gun. ?
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Plenty of play in pipes, yes.

Pilot holes, I didn't do on the previous wall I built but I think I will this time, it just makes for a cleaner fit and no twisting or pushing the wood apart at the last moment.

When fitting the studs you can prevent twisting by putting some screws into the plate wood to rest the stud against.
 
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Right, wall is straight and level, test fitted some old board, and this is how tight it is to the door frame, it's not clear from the photograph but has slotted in behind the frame, I've not cut it to go around the frame.

I'm assuming this is OK? I've never seen acrhitrave this close to a wall.

3CPaxol.jpg


Previously they've used some sort of edging trim:

WDKJRJn.jpg


But now it's going to be flush so I'll seal the edge and plaster straight up to the frame.

@Lean, as you can see, **** all space to work with.
 
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Ordered some chipboard from Wickes, to replace some flooring, have bought some previously with no issues but this time, look what's turned up:

dNj15WP.jpg


Looks like a snooker table! Slight sheen to it and it's smooth. Any ideas?

Edge shot:

iE5iUw5.jpg


I'll get on to customer support but until then, what's the deal with that? Is this normal??
 
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Probably worth having a practice plastering some old board outside or whatever.

My farther was a plasterer and I never got on with it, its harder than it looks lol.
 
sigma said:
Ordered some chipboard from Wickes, to replace some flooring, have bought some previously with no issues but this time, look what's turned up:

dNj15WP.jpg


Looks like a snooker table! Slight sheen to it and it's smooth. Any ideas?

Edge shot:

iE5iUw5.jpg


I'll get on to customer support but until then, what's the deal with that? Is this normal??
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Its just MR board isn't it?
 
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