Bolt down fence post holders

danlightbulb

danlightbulb

danlightbulb

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Anyone any experience with these bolt in fence post holders please?

I want to put some fence posts on the top of a wall for screening purposes.

These things have been around a while I just don't know how good they are. There's not much of the post actually supported so I'm worried over time the post just wears out at the clamping point.


Wickes Bolt Down Post Support for Fence Posts - 100 x 100mm | Wickes.co.uk

Wickes Bolt Down Post Support for Fence Posts - 100 x 100mm
www.wickes.co.uk www.wickes.co.uk

www.toolstation.com

EasyGrip Post Shoe

Give your wooden pergola a firm grounding with this post shoe. It's specifically designed for timber posts and has a base that is easily secured to a cement floor or wooden deck. This product is great for do-it-yourself home improvements as you don't need any specialised woodworking skills. The...
www.toolstation.com www.toolstation.com
 
They are good and currently hold up 10cm x 10cm posts on my BBQ shack and reclaimed pier heads that are used in my garden.

I would drill and use stainless steel thread bar chemical anchored into the wall.

It is a project I will be doing come Spring time myself.
 
hornetstinger said:
Probably put strain on the top brick shearing it off? Why not use a post ground to top off fence, held in several places up the brick wall
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Yeah good point.

I didn't really want the posts up the outside face of the brick wall, because then the screening will be forward of the brick wall, rather than on top of it.

What if I drill down from the top course of the wall, 300-400mm into the wall (vertically) and use resin anchored steel bar? This would be 4 courses of brick deep, 4 anchors per shoe.
 
Personally I'd just posts directly into hole in the ground, close to the brick wall. I wouldn't affix anything to top of a brick wall.

Bolt down fence post holders

Anyone any experience with these bolt in fence post holders please? I want to put some fence posts on the top of a wall for screening purposes. These things have been around a while I just don't know how good they are. There's not much of the post actually supported so I'm worried over time...
forums.overclockers.co.uk forums.overclockers.co.uk

Not a builder.
 
danlightbulb said:
You didn't specify the details sorry, so I wanted to be clear.

You did say drill and resin fix but how deep.
Click to expand...

No worries, but you only had to ask.

Depends on the wall and its condition.

I will be going between 40cm - 50cm into mine with a hole drilled around 5mm bigger than the stainless thread bar.

The panels I will be fixing are no higher than 60cm and will not be affected by wind.
 
aVdub said:
No worries, but you only had to ask.

Depends on the wall and its condition.

I will be going between 40cm - 50cm into mine with a hole drilled around 5mm bigger than the stainless thread bar.

The panels I will be fixing are no higher than 60cm and will not be affected by wind.
Click to expand...
Thanks.

I will be having 2.4m width of slatted screening using roofing batten horizontally mounted.

One section will be 6ft high and 2ft wide.

The other section will be 3ft high and 6ft wide.

So two posts will be 6ft high off the wall and one post will be 3ft high.

If I mount the posts to the face of the wall, not the top, id need 8ft posts for the taller sections giving me 2ft fixing length.

But as I said that then puts my screening forward of the wall which I don't really want.

What if I dog leg it?

So fix a 4ft post to the wall face, sticking 2ft above the wall. Then fix a 6ft post to the 4ft post so the 6ft sits on the wall but is bolted to the 4ft post attached to the wall face. Hope this makes sense.
 
Some idea's on the 'dog leg' HERE

If you do it as in up the wall and across the top of the brick and back up again, you will more than likely need to brace it and ensure that the timber that goes across the top of the wall, if lifted off that wall. This will avoid water pooling leading to rot. Those small plastic plasterboard spacers are ideal for this.

When you got time some pictures may help.
 
aVdub said:
Some idea's on the 'dog leg' HERE

If you do it as in up the wall and across the top of the brick and back up again, you will more than likely need to brace it and ensure that the timber that goes across the top of the wall, if lifted off that wall. This will avoid water pooling leading to rot. Those small plastic plasterboard spacers are ideal for this.

When you got time some pictures may help.
Click to expand...

I am thinking a 4ft post bolted 2ft to the wall and 2ft above, in a vertical orientation.

Then another vertical 6ft post attached directly to this upright.

Like this (cross section).

image.png
 
Simpson strong tie make all sorts of hangers. Might find something more suitable there.

Caps & Bases

Concealed, adjustable and heavy duty connections for fixing timber posts into concrete.
www.strongtie.co.uk www.strongtie.co.uk
 
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For that size fence I'd 100% fix something in to the ground, sadly. It's a lot of surface area above, and the leverage of wind collectively but especially hitting the top is going to put more force than you might imagine on to that series of fixings and the wall. Instead of 4ft bottom posts, I'd chuck a post as long as possible and fix to the ground, and also have it overlapping the top post by 3ft, making it halfway, rather than 2ft.

:edit: full disclosure, I am a very bad DIYer and am certainly not to be trusted.
 
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I agree with Zefan, as its going to be 6 feet high on top of the wall, i would get the longest posts you can buy and try and concrete them into a hole at the bottom of the wall.
I would also use some wall anchors to anchor this post to the face of the wall, one every 2 or 3 courses would be my recommendation.

So as your above picture, but with the post anchored into the ground and running this as high as possible for your spacer post to bolt to.
I would also not cheap out by using 3" x 3" posts, use 4" x 4"

As mention above, the fence will be very top heavy and you want it to be as secure as possible.
 
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Armageus said:
Have you got planning permission for what is an 8ft fence?
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I am not sure if he needs any.

If both levels are on his property, then he won't need it.

If the lower level is not his property, then afaik he can still fit a 6ft high fence from his ground level (which i presume is the higher level patio)
 
Armageus said:
Have you got planning permission for what is an 8ft fence?
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Its not an 8ft fence.

Its a 6ft high trellis screen only 2 ft wide. Then a 3ft high trellis screen about 6ft wide. That is measured from the patio ground level to which its mounted.

Its not on a boundary, its in my own garden.

Don't think I need PP for that.

j.col said:
I agree with Zefan, as its going to be 6 feet high on top of the wall, i would get the longest posts you can buy and try and concrete them into a hole at the bottom of the wall.
I would also use some wall anchors to anchor this post to the face of the wall, one every 2 or 3 courses would be my recommendation.

So as your above picture, but with the post anchored into the ground and running this as high as possible for your spacer post to bolt to.
I would also not cheap out by using 3" x 3" posts, use 4" x 4"

As mention above, the fence will be very top heavy and you want it to be as secure as possible.
Click to expand...
Ok I'll look to bolster the design.

The part that is 6ft high is only going to be 2 ft wide, and it won't be solid fence but slatted screening.

I'd like to avoid digging down and concreting. I could go 3ft bolted to wall and 3ft above. Or with 8ft posts I can go 3ft and 5ft above. Any longer and I'd need 10-12ft posts.
 
danlightbulb said:
Its not an 8ft fence.

Its a 6ft high trellis screen only 2 ft wide. Then a 3ft high trellis screen about 6ft wide. That is measured from the patio ground level to which its mounted.

Its not on a boundary, its in my own garden.

Don't think I need PP for that.


Ok I'll look to bolster the design.

The part that is 6ft high is only going to be 2 ft wide, and it won't be solid fence but slatted screening.

I'd like to avoid digging down and concreting. I could go 3ft bolted to wall and 3ft above. Or with 8ft posts I can go 3ft and 5ft above. Any longer and I'd need 10-12ft posts.
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Ahh, my apologies, i didn't realise it will only be 2 feet wide. i would go with 8ft posts, 3 below and 5 above (but 6ft posts may do it, but better to over engineer it imo). and the lower wall would be 3 below and 3 above.
I would anchor them at least in 3 places on the wall.

Are you placing black terram (weed control fabric) behind the screening? This is common on boundary fencing, but does add a little 'drag' effect on the fence.
 
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