Bouldering!

[Russinating]

I've recently started bouldering and I'm really enjoying it. Currently signed up to The Climbing Academy in Bristol and am going 3/4 times a week.

I am, however, still a complete novice.

I'm looking for advice and/or links to website that provide help and examples with technique. I've been told a few things by other random climbers that have helped massively but I'm sure there's a load more technique tips and tricks.

Also, grading. How does it work with regards to the whole F6a+ etc?

And finally, does anyone else go to the TCA?

 

[King Damager]

youtube.com

Go wild!

kd

 

[fez]

Honestly I found it quite difficult to learn much from climbing videos due to the unique nature of climbing. With most sports, the environment is set for the most part so you could teach someone a backhand drive in tennis with the knowledge that it will almost always be played in the same manner.

Climbing on the other hand is much more about adaptation and being able to apply the best technique on the terrain you are on. The Climbing Academy is a good wall isn't it? There should be a lot of good climbers about in that case, which is maybe the best way to learn and progress by simply watching and asking them for tips. Also, watch girls climb! They tend to have much better technique than guys due to their lower strength. Videos are great for motivation but not so great for learning in my opinion.

You might need to find out when the best climbers are at the wall as there seems to be patterns to it most of the time.

Each wall grades in a different way; some stick purely to font grades, some use british bouldering grades and other use the american V system.

Grades conversion chart

That should give you a nice overview and rough conversion of the grade systems.

 

[Russinating]

Thanks for the link fez. TCA use font grades.

And yeah TCA seems like a really good wall so far. Everyone's really friendly, and the few people that have offered me advice without asking have very much done it in a really helpful, non-condescending way.

Good tip about watching the girls too .

 

[platypus]

I was just getting back into bouldering before my injury, I'll be straight back to it once my foot is ok! Love it. Best advice I can give is just work on your technique before going too high, get a decent pair of shoes if you haven't already, possibly build a campus board (we had one at uni and it was great for developing strength - however just climbing helps this), get yourself some Climb On!.

 

[Trick]

I've spent plenty of time at TCA, it's a great wall!

Here's some shots from bouldering at Bridestones and Wetherby recently:

 

[KatanaDV20]

Wicked pics Trick

I felt so unfit looking at those...you guys obviously have good upper-body power and arm muscleage to haul yourselves up those boulders!!

 

[Trick]

Press ups and a pull up board/finger board (such as a Beast Maker) are great for increasing your upper body strength. You're not after mass, you're after strenghth! Having said that, the best way to get strong for climbing is... to do lots of climbing! I'm doing too much bouldering at the moment and not enough routes, so ive got lots of power but little stamina.

Learning to slackline is great training too, as it gives your core and legs a right old workout too. Plus it's amazing fun!

 

[BlackDragon]

I go bouldering at my local climbing centre once or twice a week. Started back in November last year.

I'd recommend watching what other climbers do, and don't be afraid to ask people how to do a particular route. You'll build up the strength quickly if you're going 2+ times a week, and using the finger boards are good. My climbing centre has a list of exercises you can do that takes 10mins, which I do at the end of my session.

 

[fire_munki]

Ask! Everyone I've ever climbed with is friendly and wants to play!
don't get on a finger board just yet, give it a while or you'll do some damage, tendons get "strong" a lot slower than muscles. Just boulder and that will get the strength up.
Dartmoor isn't too far from Brizzle so if you ever fancy climbing there just email me of go to the rock climbing post (I've subscribed) and I'll happily have a play.
yes i am pushing climbing! I've got a lots of my mates into it so will keep on pushing! Its addictive!

 

[Russinating]

Yeah I'm going 3/4 times a week at the moment. Finding 4 times a bit of a struggle though as that usually means going 3 times in a row midweek which really strains the forearms on the 3rd day.

I love how easy it is to track your progress though. I'm currently stuck on the penultimate hold on 2 red problems (sorry, can't remember the font grade) that I know I'll be able to complete easily within 1/2 weeks.

Equally problems which I found challenging or was unable to complete 2/3 weeks ago are now easy. Girlfriend has said she's noticed a massive difference in my back and shoulder muscles too.

The outdoors stuff looks great so I'll keep that in mind ^^ .