Brakes problem

Flukester

Flukester

Flukester

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Joined
1 Nov 2007
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Location
Christchurch UK
Got a major problem with the ZX10 brakes, and cant crack it.

The ZX10 has well known spongy brakes but over the last few months the lever became really solid, and braking performance became rubbish.

I stripped down at the weekend and as I suspected 4 out of 8 pads had welded themselves to the caliper bodys with crud from winter riding.

I cleaned it all up, freed up all the pistons by pumping them one by one (and lost a few dust deals in the process DOH)


After putting all back together the lever now comes right back to bar, with braking only starting in the last inch of travel. I bled through the system with new DOT4 using a one way valve bleeder, then clamped the lever overnight.... still nothing.

Any ideas ?, I don't think it's the lines or the master cylinder as with seized pads / pistons the lever was rock hard.

Maybe some air is somewhere still in there or the one way valve bleeder thing is duff and I need to try the manual method.

Arghhhhh
 
I had a similar problem when bleeding my clutch. Turns out the 1 way bleeder didn't bleeding work properly and was sucking air into the system also there was also a small relief nut in the res itself.

Definately go for the manual method and see what happens ;)
 
Cheers, well tried again, this time took out bleed nipples fully out and wound PTFE round them... still no change. Looking like MC has craped out on me :(
 
Could be air trapped in the master cylinder, push the bars to full left lock, then give the brake lever a few short pulls, only about 10mm or so. This helps to remove air from the cylinder.
Tie back the lever over night and give each caliper a two pull bleed the next day.

Open bleed nipple, pull lever to bar, close bleed nipple, release lever SLOWLY, repeat

make sure you have the other end of the tube submearged in brake fluid, this helps prevent air being sucked back into the system.

If this doesn't work I'd be checking for leaks around the pistons and caliper joints, if there all ok the master cylinder might need a refurb.
 
Thanks for all the tips...

I must admit I jumbled up the pads, each caliper has 4 (grrr kawasaki) and they may not of gone back in the same position.

I was getting so *&^%$ off with it yesterday I whipped the calipers off one by one and decided to push the pistons back then bleed, I assumed the pistons wouldn't move with the bleeder open, but wasn't looking and popped a piston out, what a dumbass!. I think I now have a possible seal gone :(

Have done so much bleeding now getting kinda sick with it, I think I might book her in for new pads, new seal kit and a proper bleed from someone who knows what they are doing.
 
update...

done as you said famas and after the overnight clamp just bledd MC and tons of tiny bubbles, suddenly I have some resistance on the lever. will rinse and repeat I think. the bike gets almost no hard use these days as don't have time, but things are looking promising.. hopefully my jumbled pads will bed in and things will get better.

seems the seal on piston I popped is ok... it wasn't brake fluid, my fork seal has decided to let go instead, happy days.
 
sounds like a gsxr 1000 i had trouble with - bleeding the brakes i had to put a thick screwdriver in between the pads and bleed it up side down as the bleed nipple i think was at the botton of the caliper. not ideal and took me an entire brake fluid bottle to find that one out - the joys of having someone elses bike to race. he coulda told me lol....
 
it's crazy they can't come up with better ways of doing this stuff... like fitting easy bleed nipples as stock, would help a bunch, still.. that would add like £3.50 to the cost of a new bike grrrrrrrrrr
 
Heres a suggestion. Unbolt the calipers from the fork legs and secure them with cable ties so they're level with the ground with the banjo fitting at the highest point. Get a NEW pump action oil can and fill with brake fluid. get some of the hose you used for bleeding the brakes, connect one end on the bleed nipple and the other to the oil can spout. Remove the top of the master cylinder or vent to atmosphere and protect surrounding paintwork. Pull back the brake lever and secure in position with a cable tie. Open bleed nipple, pump in fluid using ONE stroke of the oil can lever and, while keeping the lever FULLY PRESSED DOWN, close bleed nipple. release the oilcan lever, open bleed nipple and repeat process.
This has the effect of removing any air caught in the frontpart of the brake fluid chamber in the caliper and forces the fluid under pressure up the pipework to the master cylinder. It'll only take a few pumps to get fluid into the master cylinder so spillage is a thing to be aware of hence protecting the area around the master cylinder.
Most air get trapped in the caliper bcause the caliper sits on the forkleg with it's forward face pointed upwards, thats where the air is gonna be, hence, unbolting and leveling the caliper get the air as close as possible to the banjo fitting so making it easier to to remove it.
Hope this helps:)
 
Last edited:
Flukester said:
it's crazy they can't come up with better ways of doing this stuff... like fitting easy bleed nipples as stock, would help a bunch, still.. that would add like £3.50 to the cost of a new bike grrrrrrrrrr
Click to expand...

Divide that by 10 and youre prob talking sense

They wont do it for one main reason

If it was easier to bleed brakes, more people would do it at home.
This would bypass servicing departments of dealerships getting the arm in and making more monies.
This is why youll prob never see this as a standard item on all bikes
 
Just a update on this, given up

The brakes are just hopeless... bad design tokico calipers coupled with OEM lines and worn pads.

Just picked up some Nissin ZX1400 calipers off ebay for £100, Goodridge lines £55, and new EBC HH pads £64.

Will post up a little photo log of fitting them once in, fingers crossed master cylinder ok.
 
Nissins arrived from the 06 ZZR1400, in really nice nick with no corrosion on pistons.

Goodrich all fitted and new pads... brakes now super tight how they should be.

ps: brake fluid on tyre is coz I'm super talented and makes cornering more interesting lol

nissin.jpg
 
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