Build problems, mainly with graphics card

closeratio

closeratio

closeratio

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14 Oct 2007
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Ok so I've just built a new rig. I'll post the specs of the rig in a mo. But all that's really wrong is that everytime I try to install the drivers for the 8800gt, it keeps saying somehting like there are no devices connected that support the drivers. But i know it iis, because I'm running my display through it lol. Another thing I've found, is that whenever I try to scroll, the screen like 'repaints' itself, almost like a slow and incredibly annoying slideshow :)

And just another thing, before I installed windows, I had a look at what the BIOS had to offer on my mobo, and even though I've got just a bog standard intel CPU, I was able to change the processor multiplier anywhere from 6 to 10? how's that then? i thought they were locked? Do you reckon I need to update my BIOS? (it's F4 at the moment I believe)

Thing is as well, when I run CPU-z as well, it initially says I'm running it at around 3Ghz (for maybe half a second), but then it suddenly drops down to syain i'm running it at just under 2. Does this usually happen?

CPU: E2180 @ circa 3Ghz
Mobo: Gigabyte P35C-DS3r
Memory: 2Gb (2x1gb) Corsair domintar RAM at 800Mhz
GFX: XFX 8800gt 'Alpha Dog Edition'
Hard Drive: WD 500gb HD

Sorry if i've not included enough info, just ask me if you need any more. And thanks for lookin guys :D
 
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OK I'm running Windows XP SP2. And I'm startin to have more success with installin the video drivers once I did a reboot. So that could be ok now.

As for the CPU, as far as I understood, the multipliers on Intel chips were totally locked unles syou spent like twice as much and got an extreme edition lol. I think it's ok though. And thanks RJC, I never knew speedstep worked like that. I'd heard of it, but I just thought it was another thing intel put on their products to make them sound better lol.

You know typical of my luck, things seem to be gettin better just after I've posted this thread. THanks for all your help anyway guys. If I do encounter anymore porblems, I'll post them on here

EDIT: Ok panic over. It was solved after a series of restarts and scowlin at windows. Sorry for takin up your time guys, but thanks for teachin me somethin new lol viva 8800gt!!
 
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Ok I did have another thread with this in but I'm not sure which one it applies to more. Anyway, I keep tryin to get my E2180 to 3Ghz, but every time I change the voltages from auto to manual, and set the vCore at 1.3V, and save the changes, it restarts, then stops, then restarts again and stops quicker, and then the third time it restarts, it goes fine, but I realise it's set all the setting back to default, so I'm running on stock CPU speeds etc.

Anyone know how to make it boot fine so it doesn't change the voltages back and I can still have then set to manual. It's just the thing is if I do set the voltage control to auto, it gives it just below 1.3v, and I either get the blue screen of death when running 3d mark or it just randomly freezes up (like totally freezes up) about half an hour into using it.

I'm using the F4 BIOS atm, would it be wise to update to the F5? (and if it would be, how would I do it? lol) Or is it just possible to tweak something so it doesn't go back to defaults? thanks guys
 
Yeah I didn't see it as being that important either. I suppose that was added to by the fact I don't quite understand how to lol. that @BIOS program doesn't seem to work too well.

Anyway, I can get it to 2.5Ghz stable (just changing the FSB speed, as I said, I can't get it to boot if I don't leave the voltage control at auto). I was expecting to get it to 3Ghz easily tbh, but it seems to be too unstable. If I was able to get it to boot in manual voltages, should I be changing any other voltages as well as the vCore? Maybe the RAM voltages or somethin?
 
I'm gonna check what voltages my RAM's at when I get home. It's that dominator stuff so if it's running at 1.8 it might not be being supplied enough, which actually might be causing the problem. I would loosen the timimngs, but they're at 5-5-5-18 already lol, so like you say I wouldn't really want to.

My temps at 2.5Ghz are ~30C Idle and about 46C Load (with Orthos, and an ac Freezer 7 pro), so they're not too bad either.

And if you wouldn't mind Yanto, I'd be interested to know how. It might just solve the problem as well.

Still need to find what revision my board is
 
yantorsen said:
reset ** CMOS once you've finished aswell, do you know how to do this?
Click to expand...

Erm I'm not sure. I'm not too good with the whole BIOS interface. Not been over clocking long.

And thanks for the info on updatin the BIOS. I just gotta find my USB stick now lol.

Like ** new siggy btw :)
 
Right OK. I might try that before I update the BIOS then, might be a chance it fixes the problem of me not bein able to boot with manual voltages. And I'll check my RAM voltages before I try to update the BIOS.

Thanks for your help anyway mate. Btw you ever had this trouble with it not bootin on manually set voltages? And what CPU you usin?
 
Right thanks for that info. I'm glad it's a revision 2. I don't thin I'd go as far as to get a new cpu, but it helps knowin what other poeple are usin. I might short the two CMOS pins before I try anythin else. Because I can't actually change the voltages manually for any of my bits without it changin them back later.

I'll see what I can do anyway. I should be happy at 2.5Ghz lol, but I know it'll be that bit quicker with 3.

Thanks again for the help
 
yantorsen said:
are you pressing F10 before you leave the bios? as this saves any settings you may have changed.
Click to expand...

Yeah I am. I've even tried saving it as a custom profile thing but that didn't work either. See what it does is as soon as I set it to manual (and done the f10 thing), it powers down, and then I'm assuming it somehow changes the vCore to what I set it at, and as it powers up again, starts to post (showing that I've got my CPU set at 3Ghz), but then as soon as it's meant to go into the windows screen, it then powers down again. It then does this again but doesn't take as long. And then the next time it's powered up, it shows the stock speed, and goes into windows (and if I look in th BIOS it's disabled the feature that lets me change the voltages and FSB speeds).

You're lucky you don't have this problem lol. I've looked on google and found quite a few other people who are having this problem, and I don't think it's isolated to the P35C DS3R.

What I might do whilst I'm clearing the CMOS is take the battery out as well (might as well put it across a voltmeter just to check it), as that's what a lot of other people have suggested. I've also seen some people using the option 2 thing on the DRAM setting in the BIOS, but I don't think this'll make too much difference either.

And I thought all motherboards these days were pretty much the same lol. I'll update this thread once I've attempted to reset the CMOS and all.
 
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yantorsen said:
to allow the bios to let you change fsb, volts etc, you have to press ctrl + F1 on the main bios screen menu.
Click to expand...

Ahh well i didn't know that. I mean I can change the voltages without pressin control+F1, but I noticed extra RAM setting when you pressed control+F1. I'll see what I can do with that. I cleared the CMOS and it made no difference, I might update the BIOS soon, but I'm gonna try everythin else first. Thanks for your help anyway.
 
Erm... no it didn't. A few of the settings changed for example it showed the big colourful gigabyte screen when I told it not to). But my previous setting were still there. And I didn't get a message.

However I did, after pressing control+F1, manage to get it to boot with manually controlled voltages. It's just when I ran cpu-z it was giving it stock, even though I specifically told the BIOS to give it 1.3. Somethin tells me that BIOS update will do me good lol
 
Ahhh right. CPU-z must have been just showing stock volts. Do you know know of any program that can tell me the volts of pretty much everythin i can change?

And you know I didn't short them for that long... a second or two at the most. I plugged it out as well, but I'm not sure if that makes a difference or not. Do you think I should short them for longer? and dya think it's worth takin the battery out too?
 
Right ok then. I'll bear that in mind and I'll try it now. Thing is when I did get it to boot at 3Ghz with manual volts, it failed Orthos almost straight away. I fear I might have to give it a bit more juice.

oh and I went on corsair's website and it says my RAM's designed to run at 2.4 Volts! That's a bit of a lot ain't it! I mean yeah they've got heatsiinks but still. Seems a bit scary to have to go into the BIOS and select the +0.6V in red lol. I miight leave it at 0.5V or somethin. I don't wanna break them lol. Link to that page here. Do you think I should put this much voltage through them?
 
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erm as far as i can remember it was just under or exactly 1.3volts. I could give it just a touch more (or less maybe?). Erm temps were getting towards the 47C range under load. I bet they would settle at about 50 if I left it to run. And I did the small FFT test (the one that apparently only stresses the CPU).

And I'm pretty sure. I might run them just slightly less than that to be safe.

Lol and I don't think so. It says so there but that's not what it said when I bought it from the retailer. Maybe that's O'ced or somethin. When you go on the place where I got it form, it says they can run at 1.8V. Maybe you put the extra volts through them when you clock them
 
Ahhh no I've found them now. Proper Link. Lol thought that was a bit odd. And right I'll run that test. It'll take me a while to reply seen as I'm gonna be clearin the CMOS and messin in the BIOS.

Oh and I didn't have to take my Gfx card out; it's only a single-slot cooler :)
 
lol right ok then. I will do. I was gonna start messin then but i'm downloadin the Bioshock demo (purely for its 'wowww... these graphics are awwwessommmeee' value :)), and if I shut my comp down, I'd have to start downloadin it again. I'll do as you said though Yanto. And thanks again for your help.
 
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Yeha played and completed the crysis demo, probably one of the best games I've ever played (purely because of the graphics lol), it's quite a big step form a 6200 to an 8800 lol. Played the COD4 one as well, that ain't half bad as well. Will def been gettin those two.

I'll put UT3 onto my list as well :)

Oh and I'll be using one of those thin silver screwdrivers to short it. Example image here. From what I can tell it's bare metal, you think that's conductive enough?
 
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Lol bet that was a shock when you started playin games again :D

Anyway, I did the CMOS thing again, no message to say I did, but it chaged a lot of stuff when I went back into the BIOS again (set the True FSB to 100 (???)) And when I tried to set the voltages to manual again, it automatically set them back to stock. Now the problem's not with clocking it, it's with the fact that it's not allowing me to manually change the voltages.

Anyway, I set the FSB to 300 (effectively 3Ghz on the CPU), and set the voltage control to auto (so it would actually boot with the 3Ghz speed). Seemed ok, and so I ran Orthos and Coretemp on the blend test, I was get temps of about 52, and after about 3 mins it blue screened on me. Now I think this is because the auto voltage control isn't givin it enough voltage.

It didn't show any errors in orthos before it blue-screened, but the fact that it did blue screened tells me it's unstable.

Hey Yanto, does your mobo let you change the voltages manually and then allow you to boot without any problems? (with the voltages you set)
 
yantorsen said:
yep it does, you have to press ctrl+F1, then change Voltage control from automatic to manual, change the voltage to what you want and then press F10.

and are you sure you made good contact with the CMOS pins? you sure you got the right pins? and what material is your screw driver?
Click to expand...

Right I'll try again. I'm determined to get it to 3ghz stable lol. It's the main reason I got this CPU.

And if that fails I'll tek the gfx card out and make sure I properly short out the pins. I think I've got the right pins, they're kinda to the right and up of the battery. And my screwdriver just seems to be made out of normal metal. Steel I'm guessing, maybe stainless.

I'm not getting a message saying I've cleared it, but other things have changed without me making them. If ou reset the CMOS, do you lose all your saved Overclocks? Because mine seem to be staying
 
Right ok well I didn't lose anythin (:() but everythin changed again. I am touching it for a while and I am using a something that conducts (i actually went and got one of my guitar leads to make sure lol). But anyway, breakthrough: I set the FSB to 250Mhz, did the ctrl+F1 thing, messed with the voltages, and it's currently booted up, with manual voltages. and it seems ok.

I'm just gonna do a quick orthos test to check the temps, and if all goes well, I'll up it to 275. I need to get to 3Ghz before I sleep tonight lol
 
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