- Joined
- 24 Jun 2021
- Posts
- 4,384
- Location
- Oxon
What software do you guys use to test your hardware? Just after some quick free benchmark(s) just to check stability and temps.
I'd play some games with hwinfo's sensor tab open.What software do you guys use to test your hardware? Just after some quick free benchmark(s) just to check stability and temps.
They're fine from what I can see recorded elsewhere (e.g. for CPU: TPU got 49 in Cyberpunk with power limits applied and 53 without, using a Noctua NH-D15).Fans are so quiet I can barely tell they're on, very happy with that.
Temps seem fine to me, let me know if you think they should be better.
CPU: 67°C max, 52°C average, 36°C min
GPU: 60°C max, 53°C average, 33°C min
I'd just have a quick scoot through the event viewer to make sure there's nothing untoward happening that you can't see, but looks good so far.Let me know if you think of anything else worth checking, otherwise I'll probably just call this done, seems to be working as intended.
Do you know know if those are averages? I had a look at that earlier but couldn't tell if it was max or average.TPU got 49 in Cyberpunk with power limits applied and 53 without, using a Noctua NH-D15
After 10 minutes, I think.Do you know know if those are averages? I had a look at that earlier but couldn't tell if it was max or average.
Since the raptor lake issues I'd be very surprised if motherboards still run them power unlocked "out of the box", so it should conform to the stock numbers (PL1 125/PL2 250). I believe hwinfo will tell you what your motherboard currently uses for those numbers and you can match that to the actual power of your CPU (in watts).Might be a stupid question idk. I look at reviews and it's all power limits and noise normalised, and I have no idea how that relates to what I've got.
To me it looks like PL1: 250, PL2: 250Since the raptor lake issues I'd be very surprised if motherboards still run them power unlocked "out of the box", so it should conform to the stock numbers (PL1 125/PL2 250). I believe hwinfo will tell you what your motherboard currently uses for those numbers and you can match that to the actual power of your CPU (in watts).
From what I can gather in the launch articles, Intel no longer have a limit on how long the CPU can boost to the higher number, so in reality they're both 250.So it differs from the expectation of 125/250
Intel® Core™ Ultra 7 Processor 265K (30M Cache, up to 5.50 GHz) - Product Specifications | Intel
Intel® Core™ Ultra 7 Processor 265K (30M Cache, up to 5.50 GHz) quick reference with specifications, features, and technologies.www.intel.com
Is it just a case of finding the PL1 setting in the bios and changing it, or is there more to it?
You have the Platinum rated PSU that is suitable for dual chamber cases so has a shorter cables. The 24 pin cable is 120mm shorter than on the Gold rated one and most of the other cables are 100mm shorter.The psu rotation meant the motherboard 24 pin didn't comfortably reach (it does uncomfortably reach). The connector on the psu was in the furthest way location. Lian Li should make the 24 pin cable a bit longer.
wow, I would have never expected the cables to be different lengths between psus with different efficiency ratings but the same model. Annoying thing is I would have bought the gold because it's cheaper, but it wasn't in stock.
Old pc - will live on as an upgrade for mum (she has my i7 920 atm)
Ensure that the following settings are set to “Disabled”: “Energy-Efficient Ethernet,” “Gigabit Lite,” “Green Ethernet,” and “Power Saving Mode.”
All I did in the bios was: update bios, set defaults, set date/time, enable xmp@throwaway4372 Have you made sure your bios is fully up to date as this is the on board NIC?
Have you checked your bios for any power saving settings as well?
Sometimes you get some bios settings for the NIC in the bios.All I did in the bios was: update bios, set defaults, set date/time, enable xmp
Are there any other settings that come to mind I should check?
I'd prefer to only touch the bios if there's a specific thing I need to change.
If I was ever buying another NIC I would buy a PCI version.There was nothing in the bios, and I've exhausted my list of things to try, and wasted far too long researching about it.
So it's time to throw money at it, new cable on the way, I needed an extra cable anyway to connect the old pc. If that doesn't help I guess I'll have to get another adapter, looks like usb ones available for a tenner so could try that. Anyone know if they're good enough?
Why's that?Not a fan of USB network adaptors unless they have to be used like on a SFF PC or something.
Because things like USB power saving will effect it and USB selective suspend etc.Why's that?