Build thread

Played through the Herdling demo on max settings (old pc struggled on min settings).

Getting about 120-144 fps, that'll do nicely.

Fans are so quiet I can barely tell they're on, very happy with that.

Temps seem fine to me, let me know if you think they should be better.

CPU: 67°C max, 52°C average, 36°C min
GPU: 60°C max, 53°C average, 33°C min

Let me know if you think of anything else worth checking, otherwise I'll probably just call this done, seems to be working as intended.

Next job is the living room which looks like a bomb went off. :D
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Fans are so quiet I can barely tell they're on, very happy with that.

Temps seem fine to me, let me know if you think they should be better.

CPU: 67°C max, 52°C average, 36°C min
GPU: 60°C max, 53°C average, 33°C min
They're fine from what I can see recorded elsewhere (e.g. for CPU: TPU got 49 in Cyberpunk with power limits applied and 53 without, using a Noctua NH-D15).

Let me know if you think of anything else worth checking, otherwise I'll probably just call this done, seems to be working as intended.
I'd just have a quick scoot through the event viewer to make sure there's nothing untoward happening that you can't see, but looks good so far.
 
TPU got 49 in Cyberpunk with power limits applied and 53 without, using a Noctua NH-D15
Do you know know if those are averages? I had a look at that earlier but couldn't tell if it was max or average.

Might be a stupid question idk. I look at reviews and it's all power limits and noise normalised, and I have no idea how that relates to what I've got.
 
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Do you know know if those are averages? I had a look at that earlier but couldn't tell if it was max or average.
After 10 minutes, I think.

Might be a stupid question idk. I look at reviews and it's all power limits and noise normalised, and I have no idea how that relates to what I've got.
Since the raptor lake issues I'd be very surprised if motherboards still run them power unlocked "out of the box", so it should conform to the stock numbers (PL1 125/PL2 250). I believe hwinfo will tell you what your motherboard currently uses for those numbers and you can match that to the actual power of your CPU (in watts).

Noise normalised is a way of measuring the effectiveness of a cooler, i.e. at a given noise level, what are the temperatures and fan RPM for x CPU running at x load/watts?

My opinion is that your CPU temps are fine, about what you'd expect.
 
Since the raptor lake issues I'd be very surprised if motherboards still run them power unlocked "out of the box", so it should conform to the stock numbers (PL1 125/PL2 250). I believe hwinfo will tell you what your motherboard currently uses for those numbers and you can match that to the actual power of your CPU (in watts).
To me it looks like PL1: 250, PL2: 250

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So it differs from the expectation of 125/250

Is it just a case of finding the PL1 setting in the bios and changing it, or is there more to it?
 
So it differs from the expectation of 125/250

Is it just a case of finding the PL1 setting in the bios and changing it, or is there more to it?
From what I can gather in the launch articles, Intel no longer have a limit on how long the CPU can boost to the higher number, so in reality they're both 250.
 
The psu rotation meant the motherboard 24 pin didn't comfortably reach (it does uncomfortably reach). The connector on the psu was in the furthest way location. Lian Li should make the 24 pin cable a bit longer.
You have the Platinum rated PSU that is suitable for dual chamber cases so has a shorter cables. The 24 pin cable is 120mm shorter than on the Gold rated one and most of the other cables are 100mm shorter.

Gold

Platinum
 
You have the Platinum rated PSU that is suitable for dual chamber cases so has a shorter cables. The 24 pin cable is 120mm shorter than on the Gold rated one and most of the other cables are 100mm shorter.

Gold

Platinum
wow, I would have never expected the cables to be different lengths between psus with different efficiency ratings but the same model. Annoying thing is I would have bought the gold because it's cheaper, but it wasn't in stock.
 
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Tidied up and tip run done... and.. breathe.. :D

Thanks for all the help <3

New pc with setup
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Old pc - will live on as an upgrade for mum (she has my i7 920 atm)
i7 6700K, Cooler Master 212(X?), GTX 1080 Strix, Fractal Define S (lol single front intake), ASUS Z170 Pro Gaming, 16GB Corsair RAM, Spiders
praUDwn.jpeg
 
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Ethernet speed issue

I noticed an annoying issue while downloading games, the motherboard's Realtek ethernet speed is inconsistent, sometimes it's 1Gbps sometimes it's 100Mbps. Once it picks a speed it stays that way and works, so it shows 1Gbps works, the issue is just that sometimes it chooses 100Mbps instead.

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Context

I know the rest of the network is fine because the old PC was always 1Gbps, same cable and everything, only thing that changed is the PC.
I'm on YouFibre 150 and thinking of going to 500, so want to get this fixed.


Driver

I have the latest driver from the ASUS website:

Realtek LAN Driver V1125.21.903.2024 for Windows 11 64-bit---(WHQL).
Version 1125.21.903.2024
27.45 MB
2024/12/09

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I tried downloading these files from Realtek:
  • Win11 Auto Installation Program (NetAdapterCx)
  • Win10/Win11 Auto Installation Program (NDIS)
but they both are a zip which contains an exe which when double-clicked nothing happens.

Edit: That was Microsoft trying to limit me to only installing apps from the Store, which became obvious when I tried to install Samsung Magician instead. I installed the Realtek NetAdapterCx file, which installed loads of drivers and resulted in my driver being updated. Although I'm at 100Mbps now so that probably hasn't fixed it.

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Settings tried

Speed & duplex is set to auto-negotiate speed. If I select 1Gbps it just takes longer to negotiate, the result is still randomly either 1Gbps or 100Mbps.
Edit: I'll have to test this again with the new driver.

I disabled the below eco features as per this website, but that hasn't fixed it.

Ensure that the following settings are set to “Disabled”: “Energy-Efficient Ethernet,” “Gigabit Lite,” “Green Ethernet,” and “Power Saving Mode.”


Next steps

Any other suggestions?
 
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@throwaway4372 Have you made sure your bios is fully up to date as this is the on board NIC?

Have you checked your bios for any power saving settings as well?
All I did in the bios was: update bios, set defaults, set date/time, enable xmp
Are there any other settings that come to mind I should check?
I'd prefer to only touch the bios if there's a specific thing I need to change.
As far as I know I have the latest on board nic driver (see my earlier post), the realtek website sux so it's hard to know for sure.
 
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All I did in the bios was: update bios, set defaults, set date/time, enable xmp
Are there any other settings that come to mind I should check?
I'd prefer to only touch the bios if there's a specific thing I need to change.
Sometimes you get some bios settings for the NIC in the bios.

Might be worth having a look through there and see if you can find any related to the NIC at all.
 
There was nothing in the bios, and I've exhausted my list of things to try, and wasted far too long researching about it.

So it's time to throw money at it, new cable on the way, I needed an extra cable anyway to connect the old pc. If that doesn't help I guess I'll have to get another adapter, looks like usb ones available for a tenner so could try that. Anyone know if they're good enough?
 
There was nothing in the bios, and I've exhausted my list of things to try, and wasted far too long researching about it.

So it's time to throw money at it, new cable on the way, I needed an extra cable anyway to connect the old pc. If that doesn't help I guess I'll have to get another adapter, looks like usb ones available for a tenner so could try that. Anyone know if they're good enough?
If I was ever buying another NIC I would buy a PCI version.

Not a fan of USB network adaptors unless they have to be used like on a SFF PC or something.
 
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