Building a concrete lip

Martynt74 · 3 Feb 2017 at 10:41

We have an outhouse at the moment which is used for storing various bits of crap as you can see in the pics below.

The issue is that for the door to open it needs to be very short as the yard slopes up slightly away from the outhouse. This causes problems as water runs in. I'd like to make it more waterproof so that i can moved the junk into the shed and store my tools in here.

The obvious solution seems to be some kind of lip/step just inside the doorway to stop water getting in.

To do this is it just a case of a length of wood on the inside, one on the outside, hold together with some g-clamps and then pour concrete into the channel?

I suppose my worry is do i need to "key" do anything to the existing concrete floor to help it join so that water doesn't get in between and start to erode it.

Excuse the very crude fix on the door, the previous owners had a hole in for the cat to get in.

Alternatively any better suggestions?

Burned_Alive · 3 Feb 2017 at 13:16

I think i would be inclined to drill the floor and place some threaded bar or rebar in to ensure the concrete lip stayed attached in the long term, otherwise I think I'd do the same as you've suggested.

You could just use some tanalised wood or a metal angle and some suitable sealant, then screw it down. Perhaps less permanent but would probably do the job with less hassle.

divuk83 · 3 Feb 2017 at 13:29

I would either use a chunk of treated wood as a quick fix. I can't see from the picture, but what is to the left? Can the cut sections of paving infront of the gate/wall be removed to put some kind of drainage channel in? Is there anything that can be done to stop the water from getting down to the gate in the first place?

Something like this:
https://www.travisperkins.co.uk/Osm...e-Channel-With-Galvanised-Grating-1m/p/947919

Dave

ANDARIAL · 3 Feb 2017 at 14:05

Burned_Alive said:
I think i would be inclined to drill the floor and place some threaded bar or rebar in to ensure the concrete lip stayed attached in the long term, otherwise I think I'd do the same as you've suggested.

You could just use some tanalised wood or a metal angle and some suitable sealant, then screw it down. Perhaps less permanent but would probably do the job with less hassle.

Good advice

Richie · 3 Feb 2017 at 14:33

A bit more OTT but I'd be tempted to remove some of the narrow row of slabs against the building, stick a pipe in and put one of them long grates across the front as a drain to catch the water...

Martynt74 · 3 Feb 2017 at 14:39

Hmmm the drainage idea could be a good one as theres a drain about 50cm to the left of the door so i could channel it downwards into that.

I assume an angle grinder would be best to cut that concrete drain to length? Unless i just used plastic drainage.

Martynt74 · 3 Feb 2017 at 17:44

Having never really concreted anything before. Could anyone tell me the difference between the 25kg bags like this

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-Mastercrete-Cement-25kg/p/154100

And the tubs like this

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Wickes-Rapid-Setting-Cement-5kg/p/154062

Obviously the tubs are a lot more expensive but it looks like both need mixing with water so can't really work out the difference.

ANDARIAL · 3 Feb 2017 at 17:49

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Hanson-Multi-purpose-Concrete-Maxi-20kg/p/137252

The 2 you posted are cement.you want something like this with chippings in

jellybeard999 · 3 Feb 2017 at 18:34

What about fitting something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACO-HEXDR...ANISED-STEEL-GRATING-1000MM-A15-/141756865763

You shouldn't need to concrete it in.

Martynt74 · 3 Feb 2017 at 21:22

How would i fill around it though if not concreting it? I figured if i remove those half paving slabs i can then just stick the drainage channel in with concrete either side.

ANDARIAL said:
The 2 you posted are cement.you want something like this with chippings in

Cheers, my point stands though. Whats the benefit of buying a tub like this

http://www.wickes.co.uk/Blue-Circle-Multipurpose-Concrete/p/117656

Given it's more expensive than the bag you posted

Mercenary Keyboard Warrior · 4 Feb 2017 at 00:11

You can mix it in the tub then bung the tub afterwards

Bag you need to have somewhere to mix it.
Wheelbarrow isn't too bad if you got a decent one.

Tubs are very easy, although "stirring" them can be hard work

Mark A · 4 Feb 2017 at 02:35

I'd just use treated timber for the door threshold. Paint it up first on all sides (optional) and then silicone it down to the stone cill and put a few screws down to hold it in place. Then seal the outside edge as well as the door frame.

That coupled with the drain should eliminate any water getting in.

I can't tell from the pics, but you might want to splice in some timber if the bottoms of the door frame are rotten.

koolpc · 4 Feb 2017 at 12:01

jellybeard999 said:
What about fitting something like this?

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ACO-HEXDR...ANISED-STEEL-GRATING-1000MM-A15-/141756865763

You shouldn't need to concrete it in.

This

Martynt74 · 17 Feb 2017 at 15:05

Just bringing this back up. I bought one of those plastic drainage channels. However i've just come to look into fitting it and the drain i planned to feed it into is a bit too high.

Heres the general layout

Closer

Drain channel *should* just about fit depth wise to flow into the drain. How do i go about getting a neat cut in the concrete though? Do i just hack away with a bolster chisel?

Also i'm aware how grim that drain is and it's all cleaned now. I usually have a bit of wood covering the hole so didn't realise how bad it was.

Martynt74 · 17 Feb 2017 at 17:28

Well the concrete was no trouble at all. Have dug it all out nicely. And as with any job like this it presented extra issues

1 - I found some brick coming out about 6" from the wall at a depth i need clear. I can leave some but could do with chipping some of it away. Doesnt have to be too neat.
2 - The flags are uneven as balls, the one in the corner has dropped a lot so will need to level this up as otherwise to get the required slope on the drainage it sticks up about 20mm at that end.

Scrutinize · 17 Feb 2017 at 19:59

Make sure you add a suitable ratio of SBR to the concrete for water resistance.

Skiddley · 20 Feb 2017 at 09:29

Marvt74 said:
Well the concrete was no trouble at all. Have dug it all out nicely. And as with any job like this it presented extra issues

1 - I found some brick coming out about 6" from the wall at a depth i need clear. I can leave some but could do with chipping some of it away. Doesnt have to be too neat.

Footings?

Martynt74 · 20 Feb 2017 at 10:51

Quite possibly, given it was only the first layer though and i only chipped away i small portion i'm hoping it'll be alright!