Building under your garden

you can get a rubber spray on layer that would protect the containers from rust on the outside, not sure on cost. You'd also be well advised to run about 6 inches of gravel around the outside walls just to help drain water away.

Although at that depth you might not need foundations but I'd do it anyway and then bolt the container to them. You'll need reinforcement inside the container to protect them caving in with the weight of soil and the weight of people moving over the top of it.

I'm considering building one across the entire width of our garden and the build a wooden office on top that will work for the stairs down. It'd also provide me with a way of moving furniture in and out as needed, how would you do this with your design?
 
I've thought about doing this before. :D Planned it out too!!

I'd have just dug a massive hole though and recreated the garden afterwards.

That's what I've said but you're not the first to think I was going to try leaving it.

Can't work out how I'm saying it wrong. Excavate = big hole in ground?

add daylighting to that as well since he's classing it as a habitable room according to his sketch.

How do you define habitable?
 
My dad tried to build under our house without planning permission, was quite a sight seeing a mini digger 12ft down a hole in our front room!

Suffice to say the council found out and shut him down, not to mention taking him to court over it, very expensive mistake!

There was a guy on here who lived next door to someone who started doing this to his basement..
His house started to subside and slide into the hole next door..
Calamity!!! IIRC.
 
Of course it could.

You don't think it'd be worth it?

It'd be fully treated and there'd be a sump pump in there for runoff. Can't see a problem?

Whether it's worth it is down to you, as a way to extend your living space but still retain your garden it's as cost effective as your going to get.

Plus it's a man cave :D
 
I was thinking along the lines of a build that was put on here before where two huge shipping containers had been joined and developed into the side of a hill. Then there's plenty of strength already there and it's a case of excavating a hole in the back garden, lowering some containers in, sticking some steps in the garden and bob's your uncle.
I notice posts from survey people but nobody mentions the obvious :rolleyes:

Shipping containers are designed to stack, hence the strong supports on the corners, they are not designed to resist lateral soil loads from being buried, or a dead load on top, or be particulary waterproof under a static water pressure.

Yes dig a big hole and bury them, just don't let the sides of the hole touch the container. Probably need to sprayfoam the inside to deal with condensation as well.
They are a popular topic for architects and survivalists, so plenty of info online, just not all of it correct.

Longbow posted the only relevant video on the topic.
 
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They catch you through your energy utilisation :shifty:
most people wont have 2000 watts of grow lights so will go unoticed for all anyone knows they just bought a tumble dryer and use it a lot

although if the building isn't insulated and the snow on your garden melts at a much faster rate than your neighbours you might find the pigs come knocking
 
most people wont have 2000 watts of grow lights so will go unoticed for all anyone knows they just bought a tumble dryer and use it a lot

Most crims will be bypassing the meter anyway wouldn't they? Unless the power company has some other means of tracking usage.
 
Most crims will be bypassing the meter anyway wouldn't they? Unless the power company has some other means of tracking usage.

I'd imagine anything grown on large scale would use a generator ?

most people growing for personal use are likely to only have 150-250 watt lights with a few of the more hardcore maybe going upto 600watt.

but thats almost nothing my pc uses 430watt/hour under load according to one of those power calculators
 
Depending on location, in London for example you will have 0.5-1m topsoil overlying river terrace gravels overlying London clay. The terrace gravels can be 0 to 5m typical depth and contain plenty of water. If lucky you will be directly onto clay which can be damp or wet but is usually stiff enough to be excavated to a steep batter in the short term. Gravels would need supporting with sheet piling or similar.

I would backfill the sides with leanmix concrete placed and compacted in layers. This avoids potential uplift through added mass to the containers, some corrosion protection particularly if you tank the containers as well with visqueen or similar and also stiffens the walls.

I would cast a concrete floor with mesh reinforcement inside the container, removing any internal timbers. This again adds mass and will resist water pressures.

Provide a skin wall inside with timber, insulation and boarding to reduce condensation from internal heating.

EDIT: Access through the roof with manhole rings and a spiral staircase.

my 2p worth (civil engineer).
 
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i started off in a plastering firm doing damp courses, putting steel in the ground with a concrete roof will be asking for trouble, watched the utube vids above and never laughed so much, after a few months of rain, the smell of damp and stuff rooting around the container will be great for a room not to mention condensation mold and a smell to make your eyes water, when the rust starts on the outside and no way to go round and treat it, can see the whole thing lasting 5/10 years max under ground, never seen anything so daft in all my life, why go to the trouble of putting in a steel box when concrete would do the same thing and be a lot more permanent, think more of drainage/ air and light, and less of a metal box, depending on your water table around your house, the soil at that level and at least the same depth below, ie the height of the hole times 2, before it even feasible, for drainage purposes etc

treated concrete would be water proof and insulated enough on its own using ground heat etc, double skin, outer wall with hollow concrete blocks reinforced with bars and in filled with concrete solid concrete blocks on inner walls, tanked with damp proofed membrane, second inner layer as i would also treat out wall before back filled, dpc sheets or membrane and rubber sprayed etc.

as the roof for my build would also be concrete rafts block filled, there would be a choice to add windows or tubes for day lights, this has been done many times in under ground builds and is a proven method of getting light into a underground dwelling with out much impact on the surface. ie not seen etc.

when making the hole i'd also put in drainage, water pump, and electric unit piped from the main house, using a pipe means if anything goes wrong you can always add more down the pipe etc or replace.

as most users can lay concrete blocks, and the cost is very low for concrete, around 10k would be easy to achieve on a self build, just remember the spoil heap will need about same amount of space on the garden as the size of the hole, so you would need to leave plenty of garden left for spoil only, not shown on your plans.

where as some can be used to in fill and cover the build, 10 /20 tonnes plus would need to be costed in to take away if your garden couldn't take the extra, ie be built up etc

1 tonne of spoil is not even an inch over a 10x10 ft plot but mounts up if you have less area to use left etc, so depends on plot free and ground level etc, if garden slopes, you could build a retaining wall and make the whole garden level, would be cheaper than taking it away etc

h88p://www.ehow.co.uk/how_6207369_build-underground-concrete-shelter.html

h88p://www.greenhomebuilding.com/QandA/earthshelter/how.htm

h88p://www.concreteconstruction.net/images/building%20underground_tcm45-347108.pdf
 
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