Built in ovens...
- Thread starter TheFew
- Start date
To confirm this as people do not seem to be sure: You do not.
Building regulations documents including part p are published online. There are not many domestic electrical jobs for which you require certification to complete. The few which you must be are detailed in the document under notifiable work.
When mine was tripping it was the element at the back of the oven, was simple to replace and obviously knackered (you could see the cracks when you took it out), worth a check - £20 to sort that, I was chuffed for at least a week about that one
So now the wife has changed her mind a little, and we are looking at a 13amp Neff as opposed to a 16amp one.
As mentioned above, the rcd is 32amp and feeds an indicator/isolation switch which feeds the current 16amp oven.
Now I am installing a 13amp oven i am wondering if it would make sense to replace the current indicator/isolator switch with one that now contains 13amp fuse (e.g. a 13amp fused spur).
Would that make sense and make the circuit safer?
Thanks
As mentioned above, the rcd is 32amp and feeds an indicator/isolation switch which feeds the current 16amp oven.
Now I am installing a 13amp oven i am wondering if it would make sense to replace the current indicator/isolator switch with one that now contains 13amp fuse (e.g. a 13amp fused spur).
Would that make sense and make the circuit safer?
Thanks
The fuse is to protect the cable and not the appliance. Does the 13a oven come with its own flex and a normal plug?
If it does just swap the faceplate where the oven connects to the circuit for a normal plug socket (the plug will have the 13A fuse as normal). If it doesn't come with its own plug and flex then just use a suitable cable rated for at least 32a and hardwire it like you would a 16a appliance.
If it does just swap the faceplate where the oven connects to the circuit for a normal plug socket (the plug will have the 13A fuse as normal). If it doesn't come with its own plug and flex then just use a suitable cable rated for at least 32a and hardwire it like you would a 16a appliance.
Hi,
The oven does need to be hardwired. But until it arrives it won't be clear what flex it comes with. Chances are it won't be 6mm like the current cable is. Also until the oven arrives it won't be clear if I can wire my current 6mm into the oven.
So just looking at options. Had assumed that adding 13amp fused spur would enhance safety...
Thanks
Soldato
- Joined
- 20 Oct 2008
- Posts
- 12,082
Have you tried downloading a copy of the instructions? They should provide full installation instructions/requirements before you receive it.
I don't think it really matters? What makes it unsafe is if you overload the cable and burn the wire out. If you're replacing an existing 16a oven with another 16a oven then you're not increasing the load so there shouldn't be an issue.
The cable from the consumer unit to my isolation switch is 10mm - I over specced it on purpose as it's around 15m in length going up and down through floorboards. I could have even got away with 6mm cable from what I remember and I have a double oven (32A).
The cable from the oven is the standard one it comes with, which I think is 6mm and a meter or two in length. This cable terminates into the isolation box. The incoming 10mm cable also terminates in the isolation box and obviously the switch connects the two cables together giving power to the oven.
If I were you I'd go for the 16A. Because power!
Yeah I did. But only managed to find the usage instructions and details of their app. Nothing on installation or anything with any detailed specs. MY just be my interest skills!
Every 13a oven I have seen comes with a standard 3 pin plug, that’s why they make them with the lower power requirements so you don’t need a dedicated cooker circuit and they can just be plugged in. That is a small sample mind.
As you already have a piece of 6mm going from the termination point to the existing oven, just disconnect it from then existing oven and connect it to the new one of it needs to be hard wired. Ovens that need to be hard wired don’t normally come with cables and you need to supply your own.
If you are not sure, get an electrician or ops for the companies installation service and they’ll make sure it’s safe.
As you already have a piece of 6mm going from the termination point to the existing oven, just disconnect it from then existing oven and connect it to the new one of it needs to be hard wired. Ovens that need to be hard wired don’t normally come with cables and you need to supply your own.
If you are not sure, get an electrician or ops for the companies installation service and they’ll make sure it’s safe.
Yeah. Will have to see what turns up... the website says 13amp, and says it needs to be hard wired and that it comes with a 1.5m cable.
So I'm expecting it to be pre-cabled without a plug fitted. But could just be that someone arsed up the info on the website.
It will be here next week, so will see then!
Yes, but you do need to have protection for the weakest cable in the circuit.
If it’s hardwired in with the existing 6mm cable it doesn’t need any further protection as the 6mm is capable of dealing with the 32a and any more will trip the breaker.
You only need a lower rating if you use a smaller cable. Personally I’d do that behind the oven rather than at the counter top switch if required.
If it’s hardwired in with the existing 6mm cable it doesn’t need any further protection as the 6mm is capable of dealing with the 32a and any more will trip the breaker.
You only need a lower rating if you use a smaller cable. Personally I’d do that behind the oven rather than at the counter top switch if required.