Bypass the thermistor in a drill switch

Here is a dumb question - do I need that little circuit board? Vacuum motor runs fine if I put power right to it - can I keep just the switch and skip the board? Haha
 
If I understand what you are doing correctly (and I am still not 100% sure I do, some photos would help), there would be a fire risk if the battery pack were overloaded, both in current asked, and current given (charging) if you bypass any over temp protection.
 
Thanks for your time! Charging is done separately with a decker charger. I can't figure out how to upload photos - just links - is there a photo site I should use?
 
HarveyCat said:
Thanks for your time! Charging is done separately with a decker charger. I can't figure out how to upload photos - just links - is there a photo site I should use?
Click to expand...

I am probably the worst person on this forum to ask something like that. I just upload them to my web space and link to them there, but other people use specific free photo hosting sites, I think. I'm pretty computer illiterate I'm afraid.
 
Understood. How about the photo links above - do they work for you? I have lots more photos - just tell me what you need! Thanks for your interest! Cheers
 

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Host images there (ideally don't let them expire so future forum users can see) - then get the BBcode from them and paste into a post here.
 
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It's got a quite sophisticated PCB with what looks like a processor on it, reverse engineering that would be a mammoth task, best you can probably do is keep the battery pack in a state where you can charge it correctly and just feed the battery output direct to the motor, ASSUMING the battery fully charged voltage is correct for what that motor expects within a volt or two. Or you could just buy a cheap mains vacuum cleaner and an extension cable... ;)
 
Haha - btw it does not charge the battery - I charge the battery with a standalone matching Black & Decker charger. The motor is a brushed 18v and I ran it right off the battery to test it - could I just do that with just the switch - should I add anything like a fuse?
 
Fast blow, about an Amp more then the motor takes under load. Most multimeters will have a 0 to 10 Amp range that should cover testing it. Not a car type blade fuse, a glass encased round one. Car fuses are slow blow and usually pretty wildly inaccurate.
 
Thanks! I will test it while running and see what I need - i will need to find a youtube on how to do that. It is a 20v lithium ion battery and motor -- just a brand change. Haha
 
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Thanks - I went for it - I ordered a fuse yo add later. Runs well - battery can get up to 185F after running a while. I will compare to my other 20v Porter Cable that uses the same batteries now.
 
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