D4VE said:
No I had agw outside the car with the bonnet open listening to where the noises where coming from whilst i turned the wheels, he said it sounded like the noise was coming from the bottom of the suspension.
Calling OCUK mechanics.
- Thread starter cymatty
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No I had agw outside the car with the bonnet open listening to where the noises where coming from whilst i turned the wheels, he said it sounded like the noise was coming from the bottom of the suspension.
Not herculean, but I see your point, it would certainly take you by surprise, but on the move it's not that bad, we pushed it around the car park and it was an effort but IMO Manageable..
However, from my experience, my Orion required the same effort when the PAS Belt snapped, so it is typical of some if not all cars where the PAS failed..
Thats not to say a sudden failure wouldn't catch you out, and send you in the ditch, I could well believe that, as has obviously happened..
However, from my experience, my Orion required the same effort when the PAS Belt snapped, so it is typical of some if not all cars where the PAS failed..
Thats not to say a sudden failure wouldn't catch you out, and send you in the ditch, I could well believe that, as has obviously happened..
cymatty said:Yeah it does, no engine power = no steering, that is what happened to El.
Or he was suddenly caught out by the lack of assistance, therefore not being able to get around the corner, its not the same as having no steering whatsoever, although I can understand the feeling.
Caporegime
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Don't matter if its electric or mechanical thats just the method of pushing the fluid around the system, you can still turn the wheels with the engine off its just much much harder since your pushing against the force of the pump and fluid.
-westy- said:
I had the pump fail on my 106GTi whilst I was on the move. It's not just the same as reverting to normal non-PAS. If the pump goes, when you move the wheel, not only have you got to steer unassisted, but you're pushing against the force of the hydraulic ram in the rack with next to no leverage (small diameter steering wheel.) To steer more than 10 degrees off centre takes ridiculous effort.
Cymatty: Is the car lowered, and were the droplinks you replaced 3 months ago genuine £40 Pug/Citroen ones? Non-genuine cheap droplinks have been known to fail in a matter of months if the car has been lowered - mine £6 ones did.
Another thought - could it be the balljoints on the lower arms are worn out?
timbob said:
The car is not lowered and all suspension parts are original.
The droplinks were purchased from gsf a few months ago for abou £16 each iirc, I dont think it is the droplinks as this is a different noise from when the droplinks were on the blink.
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timbob said:
They do as the bearing starts to fail.
Firestar_3x said:
Ah, ok. Mine didn't that's all, perhaps it was the bushes that went at the other end of the pump. But AGW has said the noise is coming from the lower suspension rather than the PAS pump area, so it's all a much of a muchness really!
Gearstick is a real easy one, underneath you will see a rubber, grease has dried up, either a) grease it or b) spray it with penetrating oil. It won't work when the car is warm for some reason, wait until the car has cooled down, and then give it a good soaking.
Clunk clunk noise - check the cv boot hasnt come undone and grease had all gone/dried up.
/edit : both happened to mine, and both were fixed DIY
Clunk clunk noise - check the cv boot hasnt come undone and grease had all gone/dried up.
/edit : both happened to mine, and both were fixed DIY
Last edited:
Phil W said:Clunk clunk noise - check the cv boot hasnt come undone and grease had all gone/dried up.
/edit : both happened to mine, and both were fixed DIY
I am about as DIY minded as TWfox.
I hope it is something as simple as that Phil.