Candeo zigbee dimmer

Robert

Robert

Robert

Soldato
Joined
20 Oct 2002
Posts
16,095
Location
North West
I have two side lights controlled by one switch. They’re 6.5 watt led bulbs and due to size of fitting they’re non smart.

I installed the candeo switch but had issues with flickering and that they wouldn’t power off properly. I bought the candeo led bridge, but can’t seem to get it to work - assume user error. Here are some pic’s - though I’ve also had the response from candeo below:

ibb.co

IMG-1204 hosted at ImgBB

Image IMG-1204 hosted in ImgBB
ibb.co ibb.co

Hi Robert,



Many thanks for purchasing of our zigbee dimmers.



The bypass needs to bridge the neutral and live, so it is unlikely that you can fit this at the switch. You will need to fit it in the ceiling rose, or across the first LED.



As a reminder, if you are in any doubt whatsoever, I would strongly recommend that you ask a qualified electrician to carry out the work.



Regards
Click to expand...
 
Erm… you’re not leaving those terminals like that are you? There should be no exposed conductor

If there’s no neutral in the switch (rare unless modern house in the UK) then the switch has to let a small amount of power through and this will cause LEDs to glow dimly. I use similar dimmers to control some spots and usually one stays on dimly.
 
your picture doesn't show the bridge.
WHat were you doing with it exactly?
As candeo have said it needs to be bridged across the pos/neg terminals, it's putting a small load on the switch, I have 2 candeo dimmers in our living room 1 has 4 x 5w leds on it with no flickering.

and as said above shouldn't have exposed bare wire like that.
 
Assume I can tape the wire up? No, no neutral. There was a black and red cable. The black cable had red tape on it. this is the first time I’ve opened it since moving in eight years ago.

House was built in the 60s.
 
Last edited:
What have you actually bought?

Do you mean LED Bypass, rather than Bridge and so https://candeo.io/store/candeo-led-dimmer-bypass-2023/ ? This seems correct, based on their response too.

This looks like a load resistor to add to the lights, to prevent them from illuminated by the 'leakage' current from the switch (as it has no neutral). The resistor converts that to heat instead.

It needs to go on the switched live, to neutral. You don't have neutral in the switch so it needs to go where the lights themselves are. Like a ceiling rose.

And no, you cannot just tape those wires up. Are they fully inserted? You shoud trim the conductor back so that they can be fully inserted and the conductor is no longer visible.

(or just get an electrican to do this, as Candeo are trying to guide you to)
 
So turned out my bulbs were not dimmable, so bought two new. Will try and report back. What’s best to trim the copper?
 
Do they tell you how much power passes by the bypass resistor - and is it significant versus the power of the bulbs in the circuit -
[ I was reluctant to install that kind of system on circuit where I have just a 10W' worth of bulbs if the resistor is leaking 1W itself,
so that if the bulb was only on 8hours a day you would have 80W / day bulb & 24W/day resistor. ]
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom