Carbide Air540 - Transplant & Upgrade

Dirk Diggler · 21 Nov 2013 at 19:40

I did this project log for my new build. I'd seen a few Air540 logs and was inspired! :cool:

I moved my current build from a CM690II to the Air540. I added some new hardware, and then embarked on my first custom water loop.

I'm going to do some testing on overclocks and temperatures just to see what performance is achievable with the hardware. Will post results soon...

Latest pics of rig...

Rig as it was before the SLI setup and Orange tubing....

Dirk Diggler · 23 Nov 2013 at 10:36

4737Joker said:
I'll be doing the same over Christmas, got the case already just waiting to see what other upgrades I can squeeze in to the budget. Water cooling is number 1 on the list though

Have you got the case out yet? It looks good on the web and even better in the flesh, can't wait to build in to it.

I'll be keeping an eye on your log to see how it turns out

Enjoy the build!

Haven't got the case yet, it's arriving early next week. It does look great from what I have seen in other build logs.

Dirk Diggler · 27 Nov 2013 at 20:25

Got all kit transferred over to this case, will post some pics tomorrow. It was a joy to build in, and I'm looking forward to the custom water loop!

Dirk Diggler · 29 Nov 2013 at 13:11

First off, apologies for lack of photos... But I'm redoing my good work to date!

There is a downside to this case, and that is lack of support for HDD. Sure, there are 2 hot swap bays at the bottom and ordinarily that would be fine for my 2 x 3TB drives (I definitely won't require to add any more), however if I'm going to fit a 360 rad on the front for my loop then at least one of the drives has to go.

So, next step is to get some decent cable management sorted in the PSU compartment, and then see if I can accommodate one, and hopefully both, of the HDD's in there.

Dirk Diggler · 29 Nov 2013 at 14:01

benccritchley said:
either put them in the 5 and a quarter inch bays or do what this guy did in the back of his (you would have to downgrade to 1 hdd): http://www.overclock.net/t/1402099/build-log-water-cooled-corsair-carbide-series-air-540/190

5.25" bays are being used, one for blu ray drive and one for fan controller. I might try to get them mounted above the PSU. I think if I'm going to use all the space in back for drives etc, I'm going to have to mount all the water works in the front. I think I actually might prefer the water in the front because then I'll be able to see it all, check for leaks etc.

As an aside, I've noticed a big difference in temperatures in this case. The GPU is remaining well below 55 and that's with maximum overclock, gaming for hours. Windforce fans never need to rise above 50% rpm! which us keeping them quiet. SP120 fans on the H100i are at 900rpm, and the stock case fans are at 700rpm. This rig is silent!

Took some pics of build so far...

Dirk Diggler · 29 Nov 2013 at 19:01

Edited last post to include images.

I think I need to braid my cables as the originals look crap. I'm thinking maybe the NZXT white pre-braids that OCUK have in stock. Is it really worth the hassle to mod the original cables with braid?

Dirk Diggler · 5 Dec 2013 at 19:05

Mini Update:

Have installed some LED lighting. I thought it would be more subtle with one strip, but I'll need to order another.

I'm gonna hang off on the cable extensions for now, I think it's time to research the water cooling options!

Latest pics...

Dirk Diggler · 16 Dec 2013 at 07:14

pipson said:
What led lights are those?

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=CM-032-AK&groupid=701&catid=1428&subcat=1430

Dirk Diggler · 16 Dec 2013 at 08:46

120mm fans on the H100i are corsair sp120 quiet edition...

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=FG-010-CS

140mm fans at front and back are stock fans that come with the case. They are corsair AF140L fans, you can buy replacement AF140 fans if you want the white rings and rubber anti vibration mounts, but I didn't see the point in spending money on what are essentially the same fans.

Fan controller is Lamptron FC6.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=BB-002-LP

Dirk Diggler · 16 Dec 2013 at 08:57

By the way, I've replaced the stock PSU cables with white braided extensions and moved the 2 HDD's into the back compartment to make room for the water cooling kit, rads etc. I'll be installing the water loop after Christmas and will post some photos.

I would advise getting the cable braids as they look much better (sorry I haven't got any photos yet). And, if you want to do a custom water loop any time soon, then definitely don't change those AF140's as you'll end up changing them again for SP120's for the radiators.

Will update this log in the New Year. Really enjoyable build so far!

Dirk Diggler · 29 Dec 2013 at 21:59

Mini Update:

I've moved the 2 HDD's into the dark place, and I've also changed the ugly stock PSU cables with some white pre-braided cable ( a bit expensive for cables, but worth it IMO).

Good news is, the project is set to continue as I have received some goodies from OCUK...

Just waiting for my waterblock for the GPU...

Dirk Diggler · 2 Jan 2014 at 17:53

Water loop installed!

Done some testing.

CPU cooled by H100i on idle, SP120's at 900rpm (near silent)

CPU at full load for 15 mins. Overclocked to 4.3ghz @ 1.185 Vcore

Tested GPU at stock, don't want to overclock until I'm sure loop is doing it's job.

GPU on idle, again SP120's at 900rpm silent. D5 pump is also set at 2, again silent!

GPU at 100% with Furmark for 15mins...

Really pleased with this. I won't be modding much more for a while. Next job will be to replace the H100i, but I've only had it 9 months so want my money's worth first... plus temps are fine as it is.

Dirk Diggler · 3 Jan 2014 at 09:34

masscrazy said:
Looking good!

Whats your loop order?

Thanks.

Res>pump>GPU>rad>Res

When it runs from Res to pump, it tees off to a drain point.

Dirk Diggler · 3 Jan 2014 at 11:00

masscrazy said:
You think you could get EK-D5 Vario X-RES 140 (incl. pump) where you have your current res?

Am considering this kind of build too.

Not decided on 540 or 750d.

It'd be tight! and you would have issues trying to adjust pump speed because the base would be almost touching the bottom. Also, you'd need molex extension to power the pump.

If you want a res there, you would be better mounting the pump in the back IMO.

Dirk Diggler · 4 Jan 2014 at 16:18

masscrazy said:
Whats the thickness of the 360 rad? Are the fans internal or external?

360 rad is 38mm thick.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-488-EK&groupid=962&catid=1523&subcat=1526

Fans are external, but the magnetic dust filter has to go to accommodate them. I couldn't fit the fans internal because of the H100i overhang at the top. You could do push/pull or internal fans if you fit a standard 240 rad on top.

Dirk Diggler · 10 Jan 2014 at 10:13

I've had a few conversations regarding HDD and pump placement, so here's some pics.

Max temp on HDD's is around 48c.

Dirk Diggler · 10 Jan 2014 at 10:27

Rossi~ said:
Holy major kink batman!

It's on the drain side of the Tee

Dirk Diggler · 11 Jan 2014 at 13:06

I've installed a cheap little 80mm fan onto the back grill next to the SSD/HDD's. Temps have fell by 10-15c. Hottest drive now sitting at 34c and coolest at 28c.

£2 well spent!

Dirk Diggler · 14 Jan 2014 at 21:21

foster grant said:
Love the way you've put your HDD in the back...nice little touch that String

That's given me an idea or two

Don't forget to get a fan involved, else HDD temps will be high.

Cheers. :cool:

Dirk Diggler · 14 Jan 2014 at 21:30

foster grant said:
Pulling air in ?

Yes. I know it's going to cause dust but that can be remedied. The way I see it, there's little airflow in there as it is, so pulling air out might just be pulling warm air across the drives on the way out. Pulling air in guarantees cool air across the drives. Temps have dropped by 15c so it's definitely working.