case cooling - there a limit?

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Is there a limit to how cool the insides of my case could be?

It has fans currently but i have a better idea to cool the whole lot in there!!!

It's inpart to using my PA120.3 and my custom phase unit. By the way rad it up the top so cool air will be blown down over mobo GFX etc etc.

Temps could be anyhting i wanted from 20c to sub amibant....(-10/20c seams the go ahead)

Yep i'm a crazy overclocker and cooler
 
You won't get it below ambient unless you start using active cooling like TECs or phase. You could conceivably use a water chiller and then use the rad to blow cool air into your case. Personally I doubt the benefits justify the cost or the risk associated with it.

Jokester
 
Was thinking and have seen it done to cool the GFX of adding a SLHX (Suction Line Heat Exchanger). Then form GFX to a rad, the water will still be uber cool and the rad wil lcool it more and into the case (y)

IMG_5243.jpg

''This Suction Line Heat Exchanger is made to remove at least 150w at 18-20 °C, enough to not create water on water tube exiting from top, imho is enough for chipset and a normal video card, with this solution you have not to use radiator, becouse the HX is enough. ''

^^^ Pic & txt stolen form Dimas @ XS.com

How ever i'm thinking of having more colis on mine so the temp is lower and i have a big rad so i can cool it loads. Oh and Mr Moles work is by far the neatest around i have seen of any of the phase change boys
 
The limit is however cold it needs to be to freeze the capacitors on your motherboard, graphics card, or something else. Those little cylindrical capacitors are filled with a dielectric fluid that is able to freeze. Once they're solid, they cease to function as capacitors and usually break permanently.

This is why dry ice or liquid nitrogen cooling is only applied to the parts that need cooled rather than covering the whole motherboard.
 
Would it actually help? Most of the time the boards arnt the limiting factor. Be good to see it done though
 
BillytheImpaler said:
The limit is however cold it needs to be to freeze the capacitors on your motherboard, graphics card, or something else. Those little cylindrical capacitors are filled with a dielectric fluid that is able to freeze. Once they're solid, they cease to function as capacitors and usually break permanently.

This is why dry ice or liquid nitrogen cooling is only applied to the parts that need cooled rather than covering the whole motherboard.


Erm sorry think you getting the wrong idea. This is to act as like an Ac system to the inside gubbing 0of ym case

HD
Mobo
Ram
GFX cards
etc etc

I know how DICE and LN2 work, they are amazing and great fun to play with if you can and afford it.

The idea is to chill water on a SLHX, can make it do any temp i wish. The water from this will go to cool my GFX's (chileld water) then form that to the Thermochill PA120.3 thats sit in the top of my case where i will have 3 fans sucking air into the case, thus cooling the water further so it not affecting the temps on my phase evap head (cpu) and also the cool water and air being mixed in the rad blwing into the case thus cooling the gubbing inside.

Running 4.5Ghz on Conroe gets hot, DDR2 is ment to run cooler than normal but still is warm with 2.6V through it. But also keeping the lot cool should help keep it going for logner. Thats the idea of cooling, the cooler it is the better and safer. Thats cooler not colder fokes.
 
Drazic said:
Erm sorry think you getting the wrong idea. This is to act as like an Ac system to the inside gubbing 0of ym case
He means if you could lower the air temperature to any level, you would be limited by the point at which the capacitors would freeze, so for example if you put your pc in an industrial freezer if you set the temperature too low it would destroy your capacitors.
Obviously if your doing this as a diy job with a standard case it won't be possible to get it that cold, you will be limited by the space you have and the case insulation more than anything else.

I have considered case air conditioning myself, using a pelt and blowing air into the case over the cold side.

You ought to enter that cpu into the second half of our folding competition. It would probably be the fastest cpu on the team...
 
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*cough*

I can see what you mean, and though that's really not the greatest slhx even for water cooling, a slight improvement to it's design would make it quite ideal and really cool the air and/or your waterblocks nicely.

The only hitch to remember is that if you're taking and cooling air, you're going to be condensing water on the rad, so an open fin design like the PA series is VERY much ideal, and making a tray to catch water that's collecting on it, and a tube to run that water somewhere (even if it's just a bucket under your desk for storage) would be totally necessary. That means only certain configurations of rad/air handler could be used.

If the rad's loop is set up right, you'd likely see 5-10c air being pumped into the case, cooling everything to a very nice OC'able temp. It would also mean very dry air into the case as well, lowering the possibility of condensation.

You just have to watch how well it actually cools it for 2 reasons...

1. You're stealing a bit of capacity, and a lot of return cooling for the compressor, so you don't want the slhx to be TOO efficient.

2. You could end up with VERY cold liquid in the rad, and any colder than 2c and you'll get ice on the outside of the rad, plugging it from airflow.

So done right, it could work very well, but I'd recommend using that water as a chiller instead of an air handler as it's easier to deal with the temps and the condensation, just as you would a direct die system.

Cheers

Gray
 
i think thats taking it too far tbh

chilled water on all major components
phase on cpu + gpu

anything else wont respond better at sub zero tbh, air flow at ambient is enough...

people have tried tecs on mofsets etc, and it doesnt improve the overclock over air cooling... same with ram
 
Phew glad Gray is on the ball here with me, well a lot more than me heheheh

Jeyy it's thus so far

Phase direct die CPU
Water (std rad and pump job) on my GFX's

The plan is too

Phase direct die cpu
Chilled/chiller (sub maybe) water to the gfx then that to the rad then back to the condenser
 
what im saying is, the rad in that loop is just confusing matters

ignore the rad

itll add condensation (as gray states) and increase the temps of the water, true, itll decrease case temps, but maybe blow waterdroplets into the case

it all depends on how cool a chiller your going for...

sub zero water (assuming so, due to your questions regarding 50z at sub zero), so youll need to insulate all tubing and blocks, thus the rad will have LOTS of condensation on it...

if it was me, id go for a thermostat on the chiller, keeping it at 8*C or so, avoiding condensation on tubing etc, and do with standard case air cooling

feel free to try your idea though
 
I like the idead of the conrol there dude.

Yep i know i'll have to insulate it all. I do enough when i Ln2 the lot, CPU, NB, GFX.

The rad is to take some heat off the water so the phase cooling don;t lose the temps or heatload it can hold. Gray has spoken to me about this and we got a system and solution in place.

The rad is up top in my case so it will drip possibly, hense testing. It;s not really been done or tried and Gray is the beast case modder and phase builder i have seen by far. yeah some do nice bit, SSlincer makes the sexyest holddowns ever made in a liftime but kayl makes the best head and easyest holdown kit. Gray is just perfect, price, work, timing, info, help surport but he is the only guy by a shop thatwill offer a warranty on it all, from the mo you get his pics of the job done to it coming to your door if it goes wrong he'll sort it but then he even goes more than extra mile to make up for it.

So much so i'm lending him my hands cos i'm over welemed by this dudes help and genriosty (sp)

Anyway were gonna talk more tonight about it all sop stay tuned
 
Drazic said:
I know how DICE and LN2 work, they are amazing and great fun to play with if you can and afford it.

Drazic said:
Yep i know i'll have to insulate it all. I do enough when i Ln2 the lot, CPU, NB, GFX.

Drazic, can i just ask, if your so up on your LN2, DICE and phase change, why are you having to get advice and opinions on things as simple chilling water and such like?
 
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Bundles said:
Drazic, can i just ask, if your so up on your LN2, DICE and phase change, why are you having to get advice and opinions on things as simple chilling water and such like?

I'm only up on it from the advice and help of experts when i've been there with it and submited my hardwere to it.

The question in this topic wa sis there a limit to case cooling ie temp range..end of

The mear fact i want to kinda do an air con unit in ym case is soemthing toatly different.

But is it not always safer to be 110% than 100% of your own asurance? ie crossing the road i'm pretty sure you look both left and right as to just left..more so with Kids. Ahem thank you
 
Drazic said:
Chilled/chiller (sub maybe) water to the gfx then that to the rad then back to the condenser

I take it cooling the GFX will be on a separate loop or else it will effect your cpu temps contrary to what you said?

I'm a bit confused as to what you are planning and what you plan to gain.

:)
 
Drazic said:
Erm sorry think you getting the wrong idea. This is to act as like an Ac system to the inside gubbing 0of ym case
I take it that that means, "...act like an A/C (air conditioning) system for the inside of my case." I've never before heard the word gubbing or its root, gub. :confused:

It sounds like you intend to fill the case with air whose temperature is below ambient. How do you intend to combat freezing and condensation?
 
Does the pic of the rough job not explaine or show it enough?

Current phase unit
Phase direct die CPU

Current WC
Water on my GFX's

The plan is too

Phase direct die cpu same as the current unit however adding on a bit of extra pipe work to the suction and cap tube to make a unit to hold water that will be chilled or frozen (biut not really due to type of coolent used) of which water willl be pumped to the gfx then that to the rad then back to the box that sit on the suction and cap tube line. The cooler.chilled/frozen water will cool the cards then flwo into the rad where it will be warmer as this water will hit ether of my quad sli, sli or crossfire cards and the fan will draw in thus cooling the water more and cooler air into the case, how ever this water will be cold anyway and the effect hoped for is a aircon unit but that cold....get it?
 
I see you're direct die cooling your CPU Drazic. Was the IHS hard to remove?

I've done A64s often enough in the past to know it's fairly easy and straight forward to do but I've heard that Intel quite often glue theirs on. Was the case with Conroe?

Jokester
 
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