Totally agree, it's ideal.Ive got the stihl 2in1 sharpening file.
Idiot proof for the irregular user
Chainsaws....
- Thread starter helpimcrap
- Start date
This is the one I actually ended up buying and for £60 if it lasts a year, great. If not, it's going back to store.
Interesting, why do you need this? Do you not just replace the chain like on a motorbike?Ive got the stihl 2in1 sharpening file.
Idiot proof for the irregular user
Soldato
On a motorcycle chain, it’s links stretching over time and the rollers wearing out.
On a chainsaw chain, it’s a question of keeping the cutting teeth sharp and eventually, you’ll have removed enough metal that there’s no longer much of a tooth to sharpen.
A quick touch up with a file when you feel the teeth have lost that “caw’s claw sharp” feeling means that a correctly tensioned chainsaw chain will last the average homeowner years of cutting firewood. Unless you hit hidden metal or stones inside the wood, then you might chip a tooth or two and need to remove a lot of metal from the other teeth to get them matched up.
I have 4/5 chains. I sharpen them before using then rotate them when cutting trees so I have a sharp blade through the day. A lot of what I cut can blunt them quite quickly. Would be very expensive to buy a new one each time and sharpening in situ slows things down but will do it if I have to.
Cheers all. Guess I'll be shopping a bit more. 
The stilh one shown is quite expensive 40 pounds. You just need the cheaper sets less than 20 pounds but the files should match the chain you bought.Oregon is usually a good make.
They are worth having.I just file the chain while it is the bar when I feel the edge is going.
The chainsaw is only as good as the chain.I always check for metal and any dirty or stones where I am cutting.
They are worth having.I just file the chain while it is the bar when I feel the edge is going.
The chainsaw is only as good as the chain.I always check for metal and any dirty or stones where I am cutting.