Totally agree, it's ideal.Ive got the stihl 2in1 sharpening file.
Idiot proof for the irregular user
Chainsaws....
- Thread starter helpimcrap
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This is the one I actually ended up buying and for £60 if it lasts a year, great. If not, it's going back to store.
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Interesting, why do you need this? Do you not just replace the chain like on a motorbike?Ive got the stihl 2in1 sharpening file.
Idiot proof for the irregular user
Soldato
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On a motorcycle chain, it’s links stretching over time and the rollers wearing out.
On a chainsaw chain, it’s a question of keeping the cutting teeth sharp and eventually, you’ll have removed enough metal that there’s no longer much of a tooth to sharpen.
A quick touch up with a file when you feel the teeth have lost that “caw’s claw sharp” feeling means that a correctly tensioned chainsaw chain will last the average homeowner years of cutting firewood. Unless you hit hidden metal or stones inside the wood, then you might chip a tooth or two and need to remove a lot of metal from the other teeth to get them matched up.
I have 4/5 chains. I sharpen them before using then rotate them when cutting trees so I have a sharp blade through the day. A lot of what I cut can blunt them quite quickly. Would be very expensive to buy a new one each time and sharpening in situ slows things down but will do it if I have to.
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Cheers all. Guess I'll be shopping a bit more. 
The stilh one shown is quite expensive 40 pounds. You just need the cheaper sets less than 20 pounds but the files should match the chain you bought.Oregon is usually a good make.
They are worth having.I just file the chain while it is the bar when I feel the edge is going.
The chainsaw is only as good as the chain.I always check for metal and any dirty or stones where I am cutting.
They are worth having.I just file the chain while it is the bar when I feel the edge is going.
The chainsaw is only as good as the chain.I always check for metal and any dirty or stones where I am cutting.
It also does the rakers at the same time to keep it all in line. If you're not going to be sharpening regularly it's by far the easiest way to do it
All the advice is great - I have a Stihl MS171 - great piece of kit. I also have a couple of bigger chainsaws, one a Qualcast which has been so good I brought another 2nd hand for spares for when/if it goes wrong. I cut about 4-5 tonnes of logs each year, and really enjoy using it.
I have found most chainsaws are good enough if you look after them - definitely use 'Fuel Fit' which make the new crappy petrol much better and do not leave them for a long period with fuel in them (tank or carb). I also find the fuel still rots the pipes after 2 years so always have spare fuel pipe & filters in the toolkit. Some of the cheaper ones require a 're-tune' depending on the temperature - My Stihl has never needed it.
I also have the 2in1 sharpener, not the Stihl but exactly the same, even the colour, and an electric one - the 2 in 1 is much better, quicker and does a better job. Best indicator of a blunt chain is the sawdust little or very fine is an indicator of a blunt chain (and it doesnt cut well!!)
I would also agree that the safety kit is essential, especially if you only use the chainsaw infrequently, and definitely if you use it a lot.
I have found most chainsaws are good enough if you look after them - definitely use 'Fuel Fit' which make the new crappy petrol much better and do not leave them for a long period with fuel in them (tank or carb). I also find the fuel still rots the pipes after 2 years so always have spare fuel pipe & filters in the toolkit. Some of the cheaper ones require a 're-tune' depending on the temperature - My Stihl has never needed it.
I also have the 2in1 sharpener, not the Stihl but exactly the same, even the colour, and an electric one - the 2 in 1 is much better, quicker and does a better job. Best indicator of a blunt chain is the sawdust little or very fine is an indicator of a blunt chain (and it doesnt cut well!!)
I would also agree that the safety kit is essential, especially if you only use the chainsaw infrequently, and definitely if you use it a lot.
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I was watching homestead rescue and they used an old 2 man saw to chop a tree down, and he explained the rakers etc on there and you saw him fiing it up. The rakers aren't for cutting, but to pull the cut wood out.
As you sharpen the teeth they get lower so eventually the rake would be proud of the tooth and stop it cutting.
Saying that I rarely file the rake down. The kits come with a guide for the round file for the tooth and a guide for a flat file for the rake.
Saying that I rarely file the rake down. The kits come with a guide for the round file for the tooth and a guide for a flat file for the rake.
I was sharpening mine when I had a tree surgeon in taking down a few dying trees.
He does his by hand with files but was reasonably impressed at the ease and sharpness achieved by an amateur (numpty is what I think he meant).
Having a vice to hold the saw by the bar makes it very easy