Changing spark plugs?

Skiddley said:
You'll want some copper slip to prevent it seizing in, and a gap tool.
Click to expand...

I don't know about about that, I've never used grease on plugs and never experienced seized ones either. In fact some would argue it shouldn't be used because it acts as a heat insulator and makes your plugs 'hotter' and contributes to det. I wouldn't know much about that though or how true it is.
I've never needed to gap plugs either, they come pre-set when you buy the right ones.
 
Well its all done! Took about 35 minutes with the hardest thing being taking that stupid engine cover off. Fortunately got it off without it cracking or breaking!

The spark plugs that came out looked like they had seen better days! 4.5 yrs and 50.5k later they were still firing lol!

Took the car for a spin, so much smoother since the service and the Turbo was on full song, amazing!

4x Spark plugs =£46; 1xSpark plug socket=£5; Smoothness on acceleration = priceless
(obviously the smoothness also has to do with the new air filter, oil, oil filter!)
 
ive not even seen the plugs the tfsi lumps use, but on so many other vw plugs ive seen that are meant to last 40k, ive seen vagcom logging multiple misfires as early as 25k miles due to the excessive gap and new plugs curing all sorts of problems

i just change plugs once a year on cars i have for any period of time, provided theyre cheapo ones
 
LizardKing said:
Aluminium heads should not need anything added. And if there is water or anything else in there that makes them seize then you have bigger issues :)
Click to expand...

Aluminium need copper slip more than cast iron heads (the only alternative).

A bit of water around the plug will cause a galvonic cell with the steel thread of the plug and aluminium head.
 
Type_R said:
(obviously the smoothness also has to do with the new ... oil filter!)
Click to expand...

Probably not that last one.

Which reminds me of thing #358 which annoys me:
People who replace the oil filter between dealer Services (not saying this is you by the way). Leave it be, it doesn't catch anything but shards of stuff, spend the money on a new OEM air filter instead, that will actually make a difference, just keep the oil topped up between services.
 
BigglesPiP said:
Probably not that last one.

Which reminds me of thing #358 which annoys me:
People who replace the oil filter between dealer Services (not saying this is you by the way). Leave it be, it doesn't catch anything but shards of stuff, spend the money on a new OEM air filter instead, that will actually make a difference, just keep the oil topped up between services.
Click to expand...

Soot, sludge and other particles from the air?

A filter will clog up overtime and it's flow rate will drop off. If your changing the oil is good practice to change the filter for the sake of a few quid.
 
Simon said:
A filter will clog up overtime and it's flow rate will drop off. If your changing the oil is good practice to change the filter for the sake of a few quid.
Click to expand...

I've always changed the filter with an oil change. But the people who annoy me are the multiple birks I've seen and heard about who change the filter without changing the oil, they just pour what fell out back in then claim they're a wise consumer and that this keeps the oil clean the oil cleaner.

And my understanding was that the oil filter hardly makes a dent on the soot content of the oil?
 
Simon said:
A filter will clog up overtime and it's flow rate will drop off.
Click to expand...

sounds extreme but ive seen it happen with an engine that had been left standing for ages. the filter blocked, starved the top end and the filter eventually collapsed. bits of the filter element were never found
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom