Checking wiring capacity

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Hi everyone. After reading lots of threads over the years, we have moved from a 2000+ terrace to a 1980s detached, so opening up the options for modifications (old fireplace to stove!).

The first issue to address is the gas range oven though. It is a Cannon pre-2006 (existed before previous owners) and it is in generally poor condition. Hobs all work, 1 (of 6) of the control knobs is broken though so would need to use pliers to control. The grill lights easily with a lighter (auto ignition doesn’t spark). There are two smaller ovens and one will not light with either ignition (no spark) or flame. There is definite gas coming out though. The other oven is tempremental for ignition start, but will start with flame. It then burns quite yellow and there is a bit of metal missing (present on the otherside), so the flames go up the back of the oven and the lowest tray needs removing to stop it sitting directly in the flames and glowing.

Does anyone think this is a viable fix job or is it better to think of replacing? We could afford the outlay if required and the idea of spending hundreds of pounds fixing an oven as a stop gap doesn’t particularly appeal. Secondly, there is an isolator switch at the side and from the fuse box is says B32, so I am assuming it’s a 32amp fuse. Does that mean we could replace with an electric oven instead? Is there a way to check the wiring to know before we order?

Many thanks for any advice
 
32 Amps is plenty for most domestic cookers, so going electric sounds a painless option. Before even thinking of renovating the Canon I would check parts availability, built in obsolescence was alive and well even when it was born.
 
32A will feed an oven/hob setup just fine, so you're in a good position to choose. You have a gas supply so could go with new gas hob and new electric oven.

It SHOULD be safe to assume a 32A breaker means they've used a sufficient gauge of cable, but it won't hurt to have a look.
 
32A is normal for a 4mm cable and is too small for some cookers. You can still get a perfectly good range of cookers that are fine with that, just be careful what you choose. Some cookers require a dedicated 40A supply which in turn requires a 6mm cable.
 
32A is normal for a 4mm cable and is too small for some cookers. You can still get a perfectly good range of cookers that are fine with that, just be careful what you choose. Some cookers require a dedicated 40A supply which in turn requires a 6mm cable.
Also some cookers can work at either 32 or 40amp, IIRC our one has an option to limit the maximum current draw on the induction hobs to knock the total down to a max of 32amp (I think it basically locks off the "boost" ability on two of the hobs).

If there is gas and electric supply i'd probably be tempted to go with a gas oven but induction hobs as induction hobs are as good as gas ones imo but much easier to clean as they're a flat surface so no cracks/crevices to try and clean in and around.
 
If you are a chef, in a hurry and have lackeys and minions to clean up after you, go gas. If you are a cook, cum cleaner and bottle washer, go `lectric, IMHO.
 
From my experience a 32a circuit for a cooker will typically be wired in 6mm as a dedicated radial. This is good for in the region of 7KW which will do most freestanding cookers. However be wary of large range cookers as these sometimes require more power.
 
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