clicking/knocking split cv boot

Soldato
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The Accord has a clicking/knocking when you turn the wheel for cornering. Checked it out today and the CV Rubber Boot is split and you can see crap all over the alloy which looks like it has dropped on to it (the one on the other side seems fine).

Obviously I need to sort this out but is it an OMG u can't drive the car or will it be ok for a few K? The Haynes manual for these is a pants American one and seems to be no help on the subject unless I just can't read it properly. Have never done this sort of work on my cars before.
 
Really does depend how big the split is, but tbh I wouldn't drive it unless it was really nessecary. That'll be grease all over your wheel, i'd get it sorted, the thought of metal grinding with no grease doesn't sound good to me!

The CV boot is the point of power transfer of the driveshafts ( correct me if i'm wrong! ) so i imagine it wouldn't be a pleasant situation if it was to break whilst driving.
 
Last edited:
silane said:
The CV boot is the point of power transfer of the driveshafts ( correct me if i'm wrong! ) so i imagine it wouldn't be a pleasant situation if it was to break whilst driving.
The clicking gets louder and louder (it mainly happens on corners as this is when the CV joint is trying to work), then it starts gently tugging at the wheel and when that happens you have about 3 miles left. Then it will drag you to one side of the road and you won't be able to steer any more :D

Can you tell I speak from experience? I nursed a Rover 213 for over 4,000 miles with a clunking CV joint until it finally expired under a mile from home.

EDIT

They CAN fail suddenly too. A mate had one fail and lock up on his Mk1 Golf GTI 16v, when he was giving it serious beans. He spun at some speed and was lucky not to hit anything.
 
hmm I want to get it sorted out. Really I want to do it myself but don't really know where to begin or where to get the bits from. Previous work I have done on my cars is...

oil+filter
sparkplugs
fuel filter
pads and discs
rebuild/overhaul front brake calipers

Procedures for fixing this do not appear to be quite as well documented however. Since it's already been like this for probably 1000 miles I really need to sort it.
 
On the majority of cars you need to:

Undo hub nut

Remove wheel

Undo bottom ball joint and push down the wishbone

Pull hub/strut assembly towards you to release driveshaft from the hub end (shaft stays where it is when you pull the hub towards you, in theory) This is sometimes easier if the track rod end is disconnected too.

Release drive shaft from the diff. It will either be pull out (lever it out with a big pry bar carefully) or bolt on (usually 8 or so hex bolts easily visible)

This will make the oil pour out of the resultant hole :p Have a bung of some sort and a drip tray ready

Now you have the driveshaft out. You can either fit a replacement shaft or take the failed joint off and replace it. Sometimes it's cheaper, easier and less blood sweat and tears to just fit a recon/second hand/new shaft in one piece, it's what I normally do.

Refitting is the reverse of removal ;)
 
so I'm looking for a replacement driveshaft really then?

Ok thanks Lopez. I reckon I can sort this. The question really is tho do I have time. More research needed I think.
 
mattpc said:
so I'm looking for a replacement driveshaft really then?

Ok thanks Lopez. I reckon I can sort this. The question really is tho do I have time. More research needed I think.
Really depends mate! For the Rover a used shaft (a gamble, admittedly) was £15, a CV joint was about £30 plus the boot plus all the arsing around.

Some cars have "formed" shafts where you can't take off the joint really anyway (mostly French designs)
 
Well I don't want to muck about. If I do the job I want it done and not a multi day debacle with the car off the road for most of it. The Accord is my work vehicle and the MX5 is used for the GF's work so there is no spare vehicle at present. I'm going in all guns blazing tomorrow so we'll see what happens.
 
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