Compact speakers

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Looking for good compact speakers 2.0 or 2.1 setup desk space is limited and about 15cm either side of the monitor there is space under the monitor as it's on a monitor arm.
 
15cm width limits you to a 3 to 3.5" woofer, so that leaves you with the likes of the Presonus 3.5. Powered speakers, not true active. I have a pair myself due to height restrictions.
 
KRK GoAux 3 can be had for ~£160. Nothing is better at that size apart from the Kanto Ora or iLoud Micro Monitors which are more expensive.

Edifier MR4 if it isn't too tall (14cm width)
 
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Jumping on this thread instead of starting a new one having fallen down a rabbit hole of videos and forums, I replaced my old Logitech speakers with a set of Z407 last week which are now awaiting collection for an Amazon return (standby issues, wireless volume control a nuisance just to name a few)

I started Googling from suggestions in this thread especially @ATIorNvidia recommendations around the KRK GoAux 3, which showed I could get compact studio speakers to fit my needs, always dismissed them as being too big and bulky, I'm not a huge fan of the KRK looks but came across the Kanto YU2 which is around the max size I was looking at, any other suggestions please?

Also explain like I'm a 5 year old what else do I need to get a decent sound from my PC?
 
Jumping on this thread instead of starting a new one having fallen down a rabbit hole of videos and forums, I replaced my old Logitech speakers with a set of Z407 last week which are now awaiting collection for an Amazon return (standby issues, wireless volume control a nuisance just to name a few)

I started Googling from suggestions in this thread especially @ATIorNvidia recommendations around the KRK GoAux 3, which showed I could get compact studio speakers to fit my needs, always dismissed them as being too big and bulky, I'm not a huge fan of the KRK looks but came across the Kanto YU2 which is around the max size I was looking at, any other suggestions please?

Also explain like I'm a 5 year old what else do I need to get a decent sound from my PC?

You have option of passive or active speakers. With actives you want to ensure the speakers have enough inputs, ideally multiple digital inputs to get around cheap/noisy sources like PC, probably want HDMI input/ARC or EARC input for future proofing.

With passive speakers then a stereo integrated or AVR will be suitable, or a all in one like Wiim amp.
 
You have option of passive or active speakers. With actives you want to ensure the speakers have enough inputs, ideally multiple digital inputs to get around cheap/noisy sources like PC, probably want HDMI input/ARC or EARC input for future proofing.

With passive speakers then a stereo integrated or AVR will be suitable, or a all in one like Wiim amp.
@hornetstinger really appreciate the reply but it's gone way over my head :cry: I'm connecting up loads of info I'm reading on forums but as usual I'm too far into a subject I don't understand and have completely over thought :cry:
 
@hornetstinger really appreciate the reply but it's gone way over my head :cry: I'm connecting up loads of info I'm reading on forums but as usual I'm too far into a subject I don't understand and have completely over thought :cry:

What are your sources? Have a look here, if you need those inputs and outputs, then AVR is the way to go.


Things like multiple HDMI in, one or two HDMI out, zone 2/3, coaxial and optical inputs, subwoofer output, remote control, audio streaming, room EQ , channel adjustment, etc

Also would you want multi channel, 3.1 to 5.1 etc. Also for movie soundtracks, these offer DTS/DD decoding, active speakers won't. Native decoding is superior to regular PCM.

I'm using a AVR with my desk setup, as I can connect two computers, a audio streamer, a video streamer, DVD player and consoles to it. You can't do that with active speakers, you'd need a multi input switch multiplexor (HDMI , coaxial and optical in etc)

Also if you want send audio from a TV to the speakers then need at least optical input , or ideally ARC/E-ARC
 
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I’ve just bought a set of these and they are very good for the price.
Thanks I'm seeing a lot of reviews mentioning standby mode and delay reconnecting .
What are your sources? Have a look here, if you need those inputs and outputs, then AVR is the way to go.


Things like multiple HDMI in, one or two HDMI out, zone 2/3, coaxial and optical inputs, subwoofer output, remote control, audio streaming, room EQ , channel adjustment, etc

Also would you want multi channel, 3.1 to 5.1 etc. Also for movie soundtracks, these offer DTS/DD decoding, active speakers won't. Native decoding is superior to regular PCM.

I'm using a AVR with my desk setup, as I can connect two computers, a audio streamer, a video streamer, DVD player and consoles to it. You can't do that with active speakers, you'd need a multi input switch multiplexor (HDMI , coaxial and optical in etc)

Also if you want send audio from a TV to the speakers then need at least optical input , or ideally ARC/E-ARC

Audio​

ROG SupremeFX 7.1-Channel High Definition Audio CODEC S1220A
- Impedance sense for front and rear headphone outputs
- Supports: Jack-detection, Multi-streaming, Front Panel Jack-retasking
- High quality 120 dB SNR stereo playback output and 113 dB SNR recording input (Line-in)
- Supports up to 32-Bit/192 kHz playback*

Audio Features
- SupremeFX Shielding Technology
- Savitech SV3H712 AMP
- Premium audio capacitors
* Due to limitations in HAD bandwidth, 32-Bit/192 kHz is not supported for 7.1 Surround Sound audio.

Back Panel I/O Ports​

1 x USB 3.2 Gen 2x2 port (1 x USB Type-C<sup>®</sup>)
4 x USB 3.2 Gen 1 ports (3 x Type-A +1 x USB Type-C<sup>®</sup>)
3 x USB 2.0 ports (3 x Type-A)
1 x HDMI<sup>®</sup> port
1 x DisplayPort
1 x Wi-Fi Module
1 x Intel<sup>®</sup> 2.5Gb Ethernet
5 x Audio jacks

This is the Motherboard spec
 
With actives you want to ensure the speakers have enough inputs, ideally multiple digital inputs to get around cheap/noisy sources like PC
I get 0 noise/hiss with my Yamaha active speakers plugged into a creative Z SE using a 5ft 3.5mm stereo to dual mono unbalanced TS cable

Router gave electrical interference when sat on the desk but went away after I moved the router 8 inches higher. (its still next to the speaker, just not directly next to where the amps must be inside the speaker)

@JRJ

You need a 3.5mm stereo to dual mono cable.
The 3.5mm stereo jack connects to the front channel audio jack on your motherboard.
the other ends connect to the speaker.
usually XLR and TRS on studio monitors. TRS is better when connected to a PC soundcard. as soundcards output an unbalanced signal and TRS inputs take both balanced or unbalanced, the unbalanced TRS connector is called TS its a 1/4 or 6.35mm connector that looks lie a giant 3.5mm headphone jack.

normal hifi speakers aren't designed for nearfield listening like sitting at a desk.


for connecting a pc to TRS you would need https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07VFNWSB7?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1
and your speakers should be isolated from your desk so sitting on some of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B08DCF3F7P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title (the flat part contacts the desk)

Tweeters should be ear height though and with the speakers aimed at a spot directly behind your head for studio monitors, so you might wanna just get speaker stands with adjustable tilt


BTW if you look at Yamaha speakers since I mentioned having them, make note the price is PER speaker, they are sold individually


Also if you buy a different version of the Y cable I linked above, make sure you can see where the split is on the cable.

Some of them the cable might be 5ft long, but the split end will only be a few inches so useless for speakers.
 
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Just because you don't have noise from analogue out doesn't mean everyone else does. I've had soundcards/onboard where it's been noisy, so use digital out instead.

You can buy near field monitor passive speakers, they're not as common.

One issue with audio and speakers is with surround sound in games, digital out typically won't support the positional sound in games unless it encodes it on the fly to a native DTS/DD codec

But if you're only using stereo then it doesn't matter.
 
Just because you don't have noise from analogue out doesn't mean everyone else does. I've had soundcards/onboard where it's been noisy, so use digital out instead.
I'd assume my case is quite noisy, I have a 4090GPU with a sound card 2 slots below it, also my audio cable runs past a bunch of led mains powered strips, and the back of my monitor. (AFAIK all 4090s have coil whine to some extent)

no point buying an audio interface for balanced outputs if yuo don't need to and he probably doesnt want to be spending that kind of money anyway.


Balanced plugs were designed for when your running thousands of ft of cable not for short distances like in a house.
 
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I'd assume my case is quite noisy, I have a 4090GPU with a sound card 2 slots below it, also my audio cable runs past a bunch of led mains powered strips, and the back of my monitor. (AFAIK all 4090s have coil whine to some extent)

no point buying an audio interface for balanced outputs if yuo don't need to and he probably doesnt want to be spending that kind of money anyway.


Balanced plugs were designed for when your running thousands of ft of cable not for short distances like in a house.

I get the appeal and pros of actives, such as active biamped etc. However the built in amp can also be a negative, if it blows you have a useless speaker, hopefully the plate amp is available, I saw where no longer available or say distributor no longer deals with that country. Require a power cable per speaker. If you want a AVR later you'd need a model with full pre outs etc.

I do like XLR cables for the locking connector, also RCA cables are pretty fragile I've had some solder break off inside, there can still be some flex to solder area even when the sheath is clamped down. Some XLR connectors have clamping jaws.
 
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