Computer keeps turning off randomly.

sadbuttrue said:
Everyone is pointing at your PSU, but I still maintain its a CPU heat problem.
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I'm not pointing at the PSU. Others did not read what was posted. Assumed a PSU is the entire power 'system'. I am pointing at numbers that suggest some power 'system' problem. And only if reliable numbers are posted. Even those temperature numbers - although high - would only cause a problem if other hardware was defective.

Numbers give no reason to blame heat. Heat is a most common accusation when one entertains hearsay rather than first first learn what can cause his failures - and numbers. If those temperatures are causing a failure, then some other component is defective. Those are high but still ideal temperatures for all hardware.

Some apparently think software (ie CPUID monitor) defines numbers. Software only reads those numbers just like eyes read a multimeter LCD. Using different software will not change the numbers. Numbers are defined by motherboard hardware that has not yet been calibrated.

Get a meter. It is dirt cheap. Needed to calibrate your motherboard's monitor hardware. And know if a new PSU is good. A 'defective when purchased' PSU can boot a computer long after the warranty expires. That 1000 watt supply may have been defective when it was first purchased. Your symptoms are consistent with that theory.
 
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okay guys all i can find in the bios is these screens, there are others but they are for general options

IMG00177-20120624-2316.jpg


IMG00179-20120624-2317.jpg


IMG00182-20120624-2317.jpg


IMG00183-20120624-2317.jpg


i guess ill have to get one of those multimeters and test for myself, i know you guys say that it may take a few components with it, but aren't they covered under warranty if they do die out? as i stated before i bought this system last august so the components are all covered via the manufacturer for at least 3 years.

but anyway, ill get a multimeter from amazon or something, ill have to learn to use it as it will be the first time Ive ever used one!

and test the voltage aswell, hope you get some insight into what the problem is via the screenshots also
 
Dantoshou said:
ill get a multimeter from amazon or something, ill have to learn to use it as it will be the first time Ive ever used one!
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BIOS reads the same hardware that CPUID, et al also read. The numbers are created by hardware. Not by software (such as a BIOS).

If you cannot use a multimeter, then a mobile phone must be impossible. Posted was how to use it; what to measure. Probe each wire. Read a three digit number. Post those numbers. Get a complete answer.

Nothing is damaged by a meter. Nothing is damaged by low voltage. Why mention hardware damage?

A multimeter can be obtained in many big box stores. Sometimes for as little as £4. Why add Amazon shipping charges and then wait?

It is designed to be used even by a 13 year old. You know you are using it right with the first measurement - that purple wire.
 
I thought you said the PSU was old and out of warranty?

There is usually a section in the BIOS where you can atleast see the CPU temps, you can usually find the voltages displayed on the same screen. I would trust the BIOS more than the software readings (which are obviously wrong). Thing is in the BIOS the PSU isn't under a heavy load......this is when I think your PSU is struggling especially when the system was running hot. You could download OCCT, it has a built in PSU test if you want to try it out and see if the system cuts out......you have been told how to use a multimeter if you want to check it with that. Googling will find you plenty of guides :)

The voltages you are looking at are for overclocking the CPU in the first pic. Don't fiddle with these, infact to moderately overclock all you need do is raise the multiplier or ratio as it's listed here in the BIOS. See the ratio is 33 that makes 3.3Ghz, 34 would be 3.4Ghz and so on.
 
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I didn't say the multimeter damages it, I said that if the psu blew up and damaged components would those components not be covered by warrant for such things ( its just the psu that isn't still in warranty.) yea i am sure its easy to use a multimeter, ill have to look where i can buy one ( I recently moved house and I don't know the shops round here.)

yea i see how to actually change the multiplier, i saw the drop from the ocuk setup.
 
By all means test the PSU with a multimeter at idle and underload......did you try the OCCT software? I am making an educated guess that the PSU is iffy from the info you have given me and personal experience. Replacing it certainly won't hurt as you get the warranty back and a modular unit alone willl help your airflow in the case.

The trouble is those temps are still pretty high bud......you did say 80 degrees whilst gaming at stock speeds right? If anything it should be running cooler at stock speeds. Whilst gaming obviously the GPU gets hotter and increases the ambient temp in the case but considering you have an aftermarket heatsink the CPU shouldn't be that hot if the temp reading can be believed.

I'm assuming at the very least you have given the heatsink a good blow to clear out any dust and checked to see how much muck is on the fan blades?
 
Lazder said:
I still dont understand the link between bad PSU and very high CPU temps.. Someone explain to me?
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The PSU needs to be tested so it can be ruled out as part of the problem. Seeing as the PSU is old and has most likely been well used it simply won't be as good as when it was new.

The PSU is at the top of the case, I have a feeling he has the PSU fan sucking the warm air through the PSU and out the back which certainly isn't ideal for the life of the PSU.

I suggested a modular PSU and a case, I'm not solely blaming the PSU. The case airflow really does need to be addressed. If CPU is at 80 degs at stock speeds during gaming then it could well have been overheating when overclocked. I've already suggested a good clean and the OP admits the cables are a mess in the case.

There is plenty he can try before shelling out cash on a PSU and or case.
 
Dantoshou said:
I didn't say the multimeter damages it, I said that if the psu blew up and damaged components would those components not be covered by warrant for such things
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I would not have understood your reference to damage because a PSU must not damage other components. For reasons beyond this topic.

Again, BIOS is only software that reads a motherboard voltmeter - just like CPUID and other software. Voltage numbers are defined by hardware - not by software that only reads hardware. I never understand why some find that concept hard to grasp.

Best measurements are when a system is under maximum load. Measuring until light load (ie PSU removed from the system) can make a defective supply measure good. And does not measure other power 'system' components that are also relevant.

Multimeters are rather ubiquitious. A friend probably has one.
 
Lazder said:
I still dont understand the link between bad PSU and very high CPU temps..
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When doors are sticking, do you plane the doors? Or first check the foundation? Foundation of every computer is a system that includes and is not limited to the PSU. Bad voltages can even cause defective temperature measurements. And other strange problems.

Before planing those doors, first check a building's foundation. Before trying to fix strange problems, check system voltages under maximum load - a computer's foundation.
 
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This seems like PSU to me.

Whilst your temps are pretty high, it's actually rather hard to trigger a full thermal shutdown on a modern CPU. The chip will first throttle itself back to a great extent (which you'd probably have noticed within your games). It'll only shut itself down as a last resort when throttling has failed.

81c is too high for the long-term health of the CPU, but it doesn't seem hot enough to trigger a shutdown (unless the BIOS is set to shut the machine down at a particular temperature).
 
okay i've just bought a multimeter and some IC Diamond 24-Carat Thermal Compound, so ill test the psu and reapply heat paste when they arrive, once I've tested it and find that the rail is probably still only running at 8v i guess ill buy a new one (and probably a new case too) and put the other one on the mantlepiece.

And heres a picture of a short OCCT test, if you need me to test for longer I can do later today.

OCCT.png
 
Thing is, this PSU would have been used to a quarter, maybe half of its capacity. And so even then it would generate minimal yeah, so i dont feel the heat rising would cause such a problem when it passes through as even if it heats the PSU up i assume it would only be within/under the normal working temps of the PSU itself?

Im still leaning towards a PSU problem and not a heat one however your temps do need to be looked and and lowered if possible.
 
hmm, i put on that IC diamond 24 carat stuff, but i was told that its better not to try to spread it, however in trying to reattach the cooler i ended up spreading it everywhere, probably wont be very evenly spread and i may have to reapply, its a weird cooler to get back on, very awkward.
 
Dantoshou said:
this is it, the multimeter reveals all, and its rather suprising.
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The video only shows (apparently) a measurement of the 12 volt wire. Directions on what to do were posted previously:
How to measure: Set a multimeter to 20 VDC. Black probe attached to the chassis. Touch the red probe to the purple wire where is connects the PSU to the motherboard. Just push the probe into that nylon connector to read about 5 volts. Record that number to three digits.

Repeat for the green and gray wires. Also measure the 3.3, 5, and 12 volts by touching any one orange, red, and yellow wires. Report those three digit numbers to learn what really exists, to calibrate the meter that “Speedfan” reads,
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What are numbers from each wire? What was 'Speedfan' reporting at that same time for each voltage?
 
Quote:
How to measure: Set a multimeter to 20 VDC. Black probe attached to the chassis. Touch the red probe to the purple wire where is connects the PSU to the motherboard. Just push the probe into that nylon connector to read about 5 volts. Record that number to three digits.

Repeat for the green and gray wires. Also measure the 3.3, 5, and 12 volts by touching any one orange, red, and yellow wires. Report those three digit numbers to learn what really exists, to calibrate the meter that “Speedfan” reads,
What are numbers from each wire? What was 'Speedfan' reporting at that same time for each voltage?


Now i see the chassis, i can put the black probe there no problem, but i see no purple wires, nylon connectors, green or grey wires, i have red and yellow wires, on several parts of the pc, but only one orange ( over near the front where the wires go into the mobo for things like LEDs, i have no idea what im looking for, if you mean the cables coming from the psu such as the main rectangular one that clips in with lots of colourful wires, thats covered in black wrapping so i wouldn't know which ones to look for.
 
Dantoshou said:
... but i see no purple wires, nylon connectors, green or grey wires, i have red and yellow wires, on several parts of the pc, but only one orange ( over near the front where the wires go into the mobo for things like LEDs,
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A connection from PSU to motherboard provides all voltages; has the purple, green, gray, orange, yellow, red, and other color wires. That connector is either 20 or 24 pin. A power connector that all PCs use to power a motherboard. That you must disconnect/ reconnect to remove or install a supply. That purple wire and other colors are all in that nylon connector attached to the motherboard.
 
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