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Computer Overheating - Bad Order? (Solved)

Discussion in 'Watercooling' started by Fragg, May 12, 2019.

  1. Fragg

    Gangster

    Joined: Aug 7, 2011

    Posts: 163

    Location: Northern Ireland

    I believe my photos are quite self explanatory.

    diagram of my computer loop -
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/gu7qakmupmsa7br/computer.png?dl=0

    idle temps -
    https://www.dropbox.com/s/92q40gkzj2kynn1/icue.png?dl=0

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    I recently added the GPU to my loop for months i ran only CPU. I did not have this problem before.
    When gaming my computer now powers off after high loads, i am not sure how to find the cause but i believe it is overheating as on reboot, i quickly check temps and they are high, the pipes to touch are HOT.

    I have an open loop EK system. The pump is excellent and all heatsinks are making contact.
    Both the CPU and GPU are in the same loop.

    idle use = average 33C for both GPU and CPU
    med-high use = average 50C for both GPU and CPU
    high-very high (AAA Game) = fluctuating 70C - 80C for both GPU and CPU.

    I never recorded temperatures before i added the GPU to the loop.

    Any advice on restructuring my loop would be appreciated - maybe i need another rad for the top or maybe the order is incorrect.

    Thanks
     
  2. EsaT

    Soldato

    Joined: Jun 6, 2008

    Posts: 5,363

    Location: Finland

    Radiator isn't possibly enough for very hot CPU and such GPU.
    Despite of marketing's claims water pipes simply don't make heat disappear magically and it needs to be dissipated into air.

    Also do you have proper cooling for GPU VRM?
     
  3. Jokester

    Don

    Joined: Aug 7, 2003

    Posts: 38,162

    Location: Aberdeenshire

    A 280 radiator isn't going to give you great temperatures (would have expected better on the GPU though), what fan speed are you running on the radiator fans?

    How hot is the tubing, warm (body temp) or hotter?
     
  4. Fragg

    Gangster

    Joined: Aug 7, 2011

    Posts: 163

    Location: Northern Ireland

    I am using EK's full GPU waterblock https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-fc-r9-290x-dcii-acetal-nickel
    Following a chat with EK's support, their 290x waterblock is perfect fit for the 390
    I applied all thermal pads to the vrm as per instructions.

    I have realigned my sensors against the tubing, and will record temperatures tomorrow.
    Do you reckon i need another radiator 280 or even a 340 radiator at the top of my case in addition to the 240 at the front?
    Or maybe i need to reverse the flow of water or move the position of the 240 radiator.
    I am using two of Corsairs 140mm for the intake (i believe they are Air Series, but i cant be sure).
     
  5. area51

    Gangster

    Joined: Mar 22, 2009

    Posts: 396

    Location: Down town gaza/Lah'darn

    Hi i'd change loop flow round other way as rads going to pump/res id reverse pipes on pump to go to rad then blocks.

    You don't say what rad it is???

    also what is the pump? if not a D5 has it enough flow/pressure?
     
  6. Jokester

    Don

    Joined: Aug 7, 2003

    Posts: 38,162

    Location: Aberdeenshire

    Loop order doesn’t make any difference, just take the most direct/cleanest route with your tubing.

    Might also be worth checking the flow is going the right way through your waterblocks as that does make a difference.
     
  7. MikeTimbers

    Soldato

    Joined: Oct 18, 2002

    Posts: 6,600

    Location: New Eltham, London

    Get another 280 in the roof. Go from the GPU to the top rad, then down to the CPU. You will only need to remove one piece of pipe and add two short ones so only two extra fittings and a couple of feet max of pipe.

    Initially, the single radiator copes but over time the heat output overwhelms its ability to remove heat so the temps build until the system protects itself by shutting down. Before that point comes, you are likely getting thermal throttling as well.
     
  8. D1craig

    Wise Guy

    Joined: Aug 28, 2014

    Posts: 1,550

    I had an i5 6600k and a Vega 64 on 1 240mm rad. Not a huge overclock on the cpu but my temps would very rarely go mid 60s or higher. In a phantoms evolv its case. Was very tight so not great air flow.

    Not sure if that helps. Maybe your cpu runs hotter than mine.
     
  9. Colonel_Klinck

    Hitman

    Joined: Oct 3, 2007

    Posts: 520

    Location: London, UK

    Add another radiator. You're asking a lot of that 280.
     
  10. Fragg

    Gangster

    Joined: Aug 7, 2011

    Posts: 163

    Location: Northern Ireland

    The rad is really damn old. I got it on here in 2013 in the OcUK Tech Lab - V8 Watercooling Kit 240 kit.
    The pump i changed out recently and is a d5 - EKWB EK-XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM (i changed out the res to bigger one)

    So you both think if i put a big 280/360 rad in the roof of my case then that should solve my problems?
    That would be great if it did - easy fix!
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
  11. Fragg

    Gangster

    Joined: Aug 7, 2011

    Posts: 163

    Location: Northern Ireland

    fans are running at 1060rpm which is the max i can choose on my fan controller.
    i have the pump hooked up to the fan controller (not sure if thats a good idea or not) but its set at the max which it estimates is equivalent to 2200rpm
     
  12. area51

    Gangster

    Joined: Mar 22, 2009

    Posts: 396

    Location: Down town gaza/Lah'darn


    I would run pump full on just un plug pwm plug that way flows maxxed.
    Rad could be a low tech one as many kits use cheapest options? how thick is it?

    Regards air flow/water flow/routing etc have to work the +/- 's are rad on front blowing in minus points. rad to res minus 1. faster fans would be plus1-2 etc if that makes sense.
    The rads limited with both water blocks "pushed" so have to rebalance with higher flow/better fans&speed to shift/remove heat.

    Rad in the top is more pluses than in the front.

    Also what case is it as can't see anywhere you have stated that way can see what options you can have? Also do you have any pics of install/rad?
    As one posted up high temps yet loop was full of air in pictures!

    I like to study all of this love working things out as being Autistic-Asperger's my brain is @900mph

    It's things like Alloy cases run cooler than steel as heat disapation is quicker with alloy.
     
    Last edited: May 14, 2019
  13. Colonel_Klinck

    Hitman

    Joined: Oct 3, 2007

    Posts: 520

    Location: London, UK

    Should yes. How thick is the 280? Obviously the thicker the more surface area, so the more heat it can remove from the water. I would get the thickest rad you can afford that will fit in the case.
     
  14. Reznor

    Gangster

    Joined: Sep 8, 2003

    Posts: 253

    Location: Norway

    I've got the EK a240g kit, single 240mm rad cooling an overclocked 8700k and a 1080ti. Under normal gaming conditions the cpu is at 60 degrees and gpu at around 52 degrees. Under heavy gaming where the cpu and gpu is being maxed out at 100% usage im touching 70+ on the cpu and 60+ on the gpu. I've been doing some research on how to drop the temps under heavy load as im not quite happy with it.
    I'm far from an expert but this is what i've found out so far with some research and experimenting on my system.

    My cpu block was initially setup incorrectly for the +/-, redoing that dropped my cpu temp by 8-10 degrees (First time i built it, cpu temps were easily hitting 80+ under gaming.
    Moving my rad from front intake to top exhaust made a nice difference to my gpu temps under heavy load, dropped by 5-8 degrees as the res tubing and gpu block wasn't being blasted by warm air ( i presume) also the fact the intake wasn't being inhibited by the front dust filter might of made a difference to the fan rpm. CPU temps dropped also by a few degrees.
    From what i have read you should ideally have 120mm rad space per component and an extra 120mm per component if it has a decent overclock on it. This is debatable depending on what fans you have and how hard they are going though i believe
    According to a video I watched on youtube, loop order generally makes no difference at all, my brain doesn't understand how this is true but the results speak for themselves.



    What fans do you have on your radiator? if they are corsair airflow fans they don't have good static pressure I believe for radiators. Are you sure the cpu block is setup correctly for the +/-?
    From what I can tell better/faster fans and/or more radiator space should solve your problem.


    Anyway thats just my opinion, i'm not as experienced as many others on this forum but hopefully i'm not too far off the mark. If I am i'm sure others will correct me :p
     
  15. Fragg

    Gangster

    Joined: Aug 7, 2011

    Posts: 163

    Location: Northern Ireland

    I had a sketch with my options in a photo in the main post.
    My 240mm rad was only 25mm deep. so yes very thin.

    I measured the space I have in the top and could fit a 35mm thick 360mm rad at the top with fans below it. So I did that and got it fitted yesterday. It has solved my problem. I get 15 degrees cooler on idle and when I gaming, it hasn't went above 60. So far so good.

    I now go from Res > gpu > big rad > cpu > small rad > res

    - See the comment just above. Problem solved with an additional but much better radiator on top.

    I am not sure which direction my cpu block should be as I lost the notes years ago and I can't find it online. All other components I have made sure are correct.
    Anyhow, now that I am getting good temperature I will take it that my cpu block +/- is correct
     
  16. Reznor

    Gangster

    Joined: Sep 8, 2003

    Posts: 253

    Location: Norway

    Thats great news! Watercooling can be a pain sometimes but its alot of fun! :D

    As for the cpu block, visually the intake should be near the middle and the water leaving is to the side, i think its the same for all the EK blocks atleast.
     
  17. area51

    Gangster

    Joined: Mar 22, 2009

    Posts: 396

    Location: Down town gaza/Lah'darn


    Hi nice.
    In/out should be marked on block you can see if not with fittings unscrewed as one will be different to the other.