Oh, at the very least
Connecting an Electric cooker (sparky advice please)
- Thread starter arknor
- Start date
It's an electric cooker.What the hell oven you got?
9.9kw
Edit: Arknor- not sure if serious
Hobs
Front left (kW) 1.7 kW
Front right (kW) 1.2 kW
Rear left (kW) 1.2 kW
Rear right (kW) 1.7 kW
Grill
Grill Power (kW) 2.0 kW
Main oven
Fan oven element (kW) 1.8kW
= 9.6
Not sure where the other 300watt is hiding but the manual says 9.9
Depends how long the cable is?
every single part of the cooker wont ever be turned on anyway maybe 2 hobs+ main oven at most
so about 4.7kw max usage from me
Are you an actual electrician ?
All the way from sunderland for £25 seems kinda cheap
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Well a voltage pen isn't recommended tbh, but it's better than nothing. Shut the main switch off, the big red one, so there 'shouldn't' be anything live in the house at all, make absolutely sure it is dead before you do anything though, you do not want to assume anything with electrics ... really a voltage tester should be used for that but a pen is better than nothing.
You were correct about the colours, brown is live, neutral is blue and green/yellow is the cpc and 6MM T&E will be fine for a 10KW cooker, that is also the correct number of terminals, you wire each colour to match up with what you see there already, only go in from the bottom of the terminal and lock it down, make sure it's not too tight as you don't want to break any of the strands and make sure you haven't lost any of the copper strands on the likely multicore flex (the wire will likely already be stripped and ready to just wire in anyway).
I would personally prefer a 10KW cooker on a 10mm cable with a 45a breaker, a 10kW load can pull nearly 45a if working at full power, however in the real world, a 32a breaker with a 6mm cable will probably be fine, all that would happen if it did pull more than 32a is the breaker would just trip, the cable would be fine as it can handle more current than the breaker, still you 'might' get nuisance tripping ...if you do, this is probably why.
I assume you will be using the 6mm flex that is already wired into the new cooker, and simply wiring that into your wall box?
I am as near as you have right now to an 'actual electrician' I think. I have a certificate in my draw that says I passed the 17th Edition wiring regulations exam anyway, so I can wire a cooker in
My main concern though is that you make absolutely sure that the circuit is dead before you do anything, it's no good just to assume and I do not trust those pens really. If you test the pen on a known source, then check the cooker circuit and then check a known source again I'd be ok with it. But how are you going to do that with the power off ? ...you see normally you would use a voltage tester with a proving unit. You have to be sure that the pen didn't fail during the test, hence checking again before you start work.
You were correct about the colours, brown is live, neutral is blue and green/yellow is the cpc and 6MM T&E will be fine for a 10KW cooker, that is also the correct number of terminals, you wire each colour to match up with what you see there already, only go in from the bottom of the terminal and lock it down, make sure it's not too tight as you don't want to break any of the strands and make sure you haven't lost any of the copper strands on the likely multicore flex (the wire will likely already be stripped and ready to just wire in anyway).
I would personally prefer a 10KW cooker on a 10mm cable with a 45a breaker, a 10kW load can pull nearly 45a if working at full power, however in the real world, a 32a breaker with a 6mm cable will probably be fine, all that would happen if it did pull more than 32a is the breaker would just trip, the cable would be fine as it can handle more current than the breaker, still you 'might' get nuisance tripping ...if you do, this is probably why.
I assume you will be using the 6mm flex that is already wired into the new cooker, and simply wiring that into your wall box?
I am as near as you have right now to an 'actual electrician' I think. I have a certificate in my draw that says I passed the 17th Edition wiring regulations exam anyway, so I can wire a cooker in
My main concern though is that you make absolutely sure that the circuit is dead before you do anything, it's no good just to assume and I do not trust those pens really. If you test the pen on a known source, then check the cooker circuit and then check a known source again I'd be ok with it. But how are you going to do that with the power off ? ...you see normally you would use a voltage tester with a proving unit. You have to be sure that the pen didn't fail during the test, hence checking again before you start work.
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Ahhh, sorry arknor, I misread. I was assuming just the oven, rather than cooker (oven plus hobs).
Apologies.
Associate
9900W / 230 volts
= 43.043 amps
-First 10 amps
= 30% of remaining (33.043A) =9.9129 amps
= 33.043A-9.9129A= 23.1201A
plus 5 amps for a socket
=28.1301A
=MCB Size Correct.(32A)
=Cable Size Correct. (Providing the 6mmT+E is not over 40 meters in length on the run)
This is fine the way it is.
I wouldn't advise doing it yourself, but no one has to listen to me
= 43.043 amps
-First 10 amps
= 30% of remaining (33.043A) =9.9129 amps
= 33.043A-9.9129A= 23.1201A
plus 5 amps for a socket
=28.1301A
=MCB Size Correct.(32A)
=Cable Size Correct. (Providing the 6mmT+E is not over 40 meters in length on the run)
This is fine the way it is.
I wouldn't advise doing it yourself, but no one has to listen to me
Okay, I will just pay someone and lose man point's
I did buy a hammer drill from argos earlier though to fit some curtain rails I guess that will make up for it and give me that DIY buzz.
No risk of cables in the ceiling around a window frame surely
Btw I found this when researching on teh interweb lol
I did buy a hammer drill from argos earlier though to fit some curtain rails
I guess that will make up for it and give me that DIY buzz.No risk of cables in the ceiling around a window frame surely
Btw I found this when researching on teh interweb lol
Soldato
Moeks here isn't the nearest you have no,
I am a time served electrician with my 17th edition.
6mm T+E will be fine as you bring diversity into it. Yes the cooker is max rated at 9.9kw but unlike a shower say it's never going to be pulling that 9.9kw load.
That's the thing with these people giving advice on forums you see, You have no idea who they are and if they are talking complete bull.
Arknor, Email in trust
I am a time served electrician with my 17th edition.
6mm T+E will be fine as you bring diversity into it. Yes the cooker is max rated at 9.9kw but unlike a shower say it's never going to be pulling that 9.9kw load.
That's the thing with these people giving advice on forums you see, You have no idea who they are and if they are talking complete bull.
Arknor, Email in trust
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Ok fair enough, but there is no need to be rude about it though, I did use the term 'I think' when I said I was the nearest thing he had though, I used that term because I didn't know for sure but no-one else had said otherwise upto that point.
I do of course know about diversity, but the assumptions that it makes would fall short in my own house for instance, it is not that unusual for every part of our cooker to be in use at once, now ours is gas so it's not an issue in this regard but the point stands. If you were talking about a commercial premises or even just a guest house, I believe diversity accounts for 100% of the largest cooker and maybe 80% for the second and 60% there after ...something like that anyway, I'm not going to get my books out to check it exactly but anyway my point is, diversity if usually fine but it does depend on the individuals needs.
Not that this will change much for the chap here as he's not going to redo the circuit back to the consumer unit, it's just an academic point really, I personally much prefer over engineered to under engineered and I would call the regulation recommended assumptions a bit under engineered, personally, of course that is my opinion not a fact.
As to weather you know someone on a forum is speaking complete bs or not, well true, you don't. Neither of us are though, you are following the regs recommendations exactly though, I'm going beyond them.
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Soldato
Edited my post before your reply. Felt I'd been rude so removed the part I felt was rude,
Sorry mate, just have a history with electrical threads.
I know where you are coming from but little things like terminating two 10mm into one of those outlets is pretty hard as they design them to take 6mm. When you over engineer a circuit in a domestic property you normally run into all sorts of stupid problems you didn't even think of. And the costs start to get silly, not so much of an issue in commercial or industrial
Sorry mate, just have a history with electrical threads.
I know where you are coming from
but little things like terminating two 10mm into one of those outlets is pretty hard as they design them to take 6mm. When you over engineer a circuit in a domestic property you normally run into all sorts of stupid problems you didn't even think of. And the costs start to get silly, not so much of an issue in commercial or industrial
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Soldato
No no your advice is sound, you are of course correct about the isolating. Even with a recent inspection (Do you own the property arknor?) you can't trust others work and should always check make sure a circuit is dead.
Oh come on ...you know that's not even nearly true.
no I split with my wife ages ago but we stayed living together and I'm finally moving out into a forever alone flat
Soldato
Sorry to hear that, But yeah if you need it sorting cheaper than most you know where I am.
Soldato
I'd imagine his first step is to actually buy the cooker
Associate
- Joined
- 4 Sep 2011
- Posts
- 596
Do the job for him ZG002. Nice little earner for you there
Soldato
If he needs me to I will lol, I could defo do with the money at the moment. I'm thinking about trying to start up on my own but I just don't have the money and the client base. 