Its the one in my image above, it's a full cover block with backplate.
To be honest I only get the whine if I play older titles at high FPS with a certain load profile on the card. I cant really complain too much!
Considering First Custom Loop In New Year
- Thread starter OliverQueen
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To be honest I only get the whine if I play older titles at high FPS with a certain load profile on the card. I cant really complain too much!
Soldato
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I was considering creating something in the Hyte Y40 myself. Water cooling has always been worth it in my opinion, if one can be arsed that is.
@OliverQueen I'm looking forward to seeing what you decide on as I had not expected so many comments suggesting WC is not worthwhile any more. My thoughts are that it's something I want to do, not something that is absolutely necessary but it is fascinating seeing the varied opinions. 
@Sin_Chase, thank you for your input. I'm also considering my first WC loop, alongside my son (who I can blame for the inspiration), so your input is very welcome.
@Sin_Chase, thank you for your input. I'm also considering my first WC loop, alongside my son (who I can blame for the inspiration), so your input is very welcome.
What would you be looking to cool in the Hyte Y40? I tried it, and failed pretty hard!
(but then again, there are better water cooling builders out there - so it might have just been me!)I was trying to cool a 4090 and 7800X3D, but ended up running out of room for rads and fans.
I'd be keen to see what can be accomplished in a Y40!
Soldato
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You couldn't get a 360 in the top and a 280 in the side?What would you be looking to cool in the Hyte Y40? I tried it, and failed pretty hard!
I was trying to cool a 4090 and 7800X3D, but ended up running out of room for rads and fans.
I'd be keen to see what can be accomplished in a Y40!
No. For sure not a 360 + 280. I did try a 360 + 240, but the plumbing wouldn't fit. (Maybe if i used super-thin fans?)
Maybe a 240+240 would have worked. But but that point i had given up
and i don't think 240+240 would have been enough for the components i had.Before i moved on to what i have running now (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/new-open-loop-build-hot-gpu-4090-fe.18974594/page-2) - photos near the bottom of Page 2
I did get the Hyte Y40 running with water. But only with a single 240x60mm thick rad. and a push-pull set of fans on it. I was hoping that would be enough, but it was nowhere near! Water was hitting 60-C
Maybe someone with more experience could make something work! Or for sure with some mods (like external rads, or maybe the rads inside, and the fans outside?) But i'm not at that level yet, and just wanted an easier case to work with for my build!
*EDIT* Yes, the side of the Y40 will support 280, but only fans (no pun intended...) A 280 rad is bigger than the space, due to the end tanks
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Soldato
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If you want the "fish tank" look of the hyte
But still want full rad support
The upcoming msi Meg maestro 700l pg
May fit the bill
Also supports motherboard with rear connectors
But it's not going to be cheap
Curved glass panel that's for side and front
In one piece of glass probably has high production costs
And failure rate possibly during production
But still want full rad support
The upcoming msi Meg maestro 700l pg
May fit the bill
Also supports motherboard with rear connectors
But it's not going to be cheap
Curved glass panel that's for side and front
In one piece of glass probably has high production costs
And failure rate possibly during production
Soldato
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I have a RTX 4090 Suprim liquid now (coming anyway). Maybe next time I'll build another water cooling rig. I like the NV7 though, good job.No. For sure not a 360 + 280. I did try a 360 + 240, but the plumbing wouldn't fit. (Maybe if i used super-thin fans?)
Maybe a 240+240 would have worked. But but that point i had given up
Before i moved on to what i have running now (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/new-open-loop-build-hot-gpu-4090-fe.18974594/page-2) - photos near the bottom of Page 2
I did get the Hyte Y40 running with water. But only with a single 240x60mm thick rad. and a push-pull set of fans on it. I was hoping that would be enough, but it was nowhere near! Water was hitting 60-C
Maybe someone with more experience could make something work! Or for sure with some mods (like external rads, or maybe the rads inside, and the fans outside?) But i'm not at that level yet, and just wanted an easier case to work with for my build!
*EDIT* Yes, the side of the Y40 will support 280, but only fans (no pun intended...) A 280 rad is bigger than the space, due to the end tanks
So you would want to decide on tubing size (I like 1/2in/3/4in but most go for smaller tubing such as 10mm x 16mm (3/8in x 5/8in) now). For hassle free life go coloured tubing rather than coloured coolant if a factor - avoid the desire to go for fancy pre-mixes with visual effects if you want to avoid future staining/clogging issues. I recommend (black) EPDM tubing (all the main vendors have their own variants) as it avoids the issue of plasticizer and discolouring many experience.
For coolant, distilled + a biocide/anti-corrosion additive is cheapest but pre-mixes like Mayhem X1 clear/Aquacomputer DP Ultra are consistent reliable (a typical CPU/GPU loop can be upto 2l of fluid).
I'm still using a Watercool CPU Heatkiller IV pro block but there are good new blocks such as Alphacool Core 1. Current EK blocks are generally considered overpriced and their history of nickel plating QC has gone downhill over the years - unless you go for a pure copper variant.
Some variation of D5 pump (pwm or vario form vendors are all based off reference Laing designs typically) as they are the most reliable.
Radiators I like HWL GTX (I have dual 560mms).
For cost effective fittings I like Barrow. Performance wise there isn't much difference its more a factor of visuals/form factor and placement/routing limite so most vendors are generally fine.
I would echo what Pre said. Some more comments from my end:
- Rads -> If you design / plan your layout before hand, this might dictate the rads. I was really looking for short runs on the tubing, and a 'point to point' look, so i needed Cross-Flow rads. I know there are a few out there, but i went with EK (EK-Quantum Surface P360M X-Flow - White) for the Cross-Flow, and for the white colour.
I wish i didn't use EK fittings everywhere - i agree about the overpriced aspect!
I would suggest a temp sensor and maybe a flow meter. Temp sensor can be used to control the pump speed, and flow meter - i pretty much used it to set the pump speed curve, and now only really glance at it to make sure the water is flowing!
Sure! There is some history and details of the build here (https://forums.overclockers.co.uk/threads/new-open-loop-build-hot-gpu-4090-fe.18974594/page-2) - photos near the bottom of Page 2
And if you go to some PC picking of parts page, and search the completed builds for 'Snow flake' (one word though.. for some reason, when i type is as a single word, it get's redacted.), you should find: 'Snow flake - First Watercooled Build' for some more photos and write up.
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Seconding the temp sensor. Having your pumps and rans running off coolant temp is the best way of doing it, stops the obnoxious pitch change of the fans and pumps ramping up and down following the GPU or CPU temp.
Soldato
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Coolant temp is a quick way
To check your loops working OK definitely
Though I went 20 years before got my first temp sensor
So definitely useful
but you can still be fine without one
If you use cpu or gpu to control the fans
Just set the polling rate longer to avoid ramping
Up and down
Ie more time between each time it checks temperature
To check your loops working OK definitely
Though I went 20 years before got my first temp sensor
So definitely useful
but you can still be fine without one
If you use cpu or gpu to control the fans
Just set the polling rate longer to avoid ramping
Up and down
Ie more time between each time it checks temperature