corrosion or gunk

Just had a read
And you're right seems ek glued on
Some thin aluminium pieces over some of
The screws
I am Assuming the aluminium is just for aesthetics
Not functionality
Could heat the aluminium part up
To try to soften the glue
Though would really depend what glue they used
But seems there's a definite risk you may damage
The acrylic underneath

Other options
Try the blitz though it may or may not work
Or take it off and run water through it with a garden hose
Or contact someone like gamers nexus about it
They certainly have a history of dealing with ek

I think ek has been bought out/partly bought out
Or some other financial arrangement
By a Chinese company now
Facebook page is still currently showing lots of people
Who have been waiting months for their stuff
 
Evening folks,

I'm going to contact EKWB support and see what they say about cleaning that monoblock.

I'll update the thread as soon as I get a reply from EKWB.
 
Good luck with ek
You may need it way they are lately
Probably blame asus for any issues
And asus probably blame ek
Technically its asus problem they made the motherboard
and sold it
makes them responsible regardless who made
The waterblock parts
if you buy a car the garage sold it is liable
for the whole thing
not whoever manufactured the individual parts


If you have a leak tester
Another option to try to remove stuff
Ideally take the block off though I do this
In situ to remove the last of the coolant out of
The gpu block and bottom radiator
Pump up the pressure
Then unscrew the leak tester as fast as you can
This literally vacuums my coolant out
Whether it will vacuum any debris out would depend
On what the debris is
And how small the gap between microfins is
 
I can understand why EK have made this block hard to take apart and it is probably because to put it back together would be an absolute nightmare with trying to ensure all the 5 separate o-rings in the 5 separate cavities, that I can count on a see-thru image of the block, and trying to get them all in their oddly shaped grooves whilst not being able to see most of them as you nip everything up. I imagine they basically don't want anyone messing with it as it would lead to customer support tickets and so forth.

I can see that it is unsightly, the little black squiggles are probably air bubbles trapped between the acrylic and the metal. If you pressed that area with your finger while it is running you might be able to persuade them to get out of there, it there is any flex in the acrylic.

I agree it is the choice of coolant which is exacerbating how it looks as in any block with an area like this, where you have large stagnant areas where ideally you don't want to find a way through, but inevitably it does as there will always be a gap between the acrylic and the metal. With this type of coolant you'll get the added disadvantage of the particles dropping out where it is stagnant there. Even with a totally clear coolant you would eventually get something like this developing over a long period of time because you would end up with crevice corrosion taking place between the closely mating surfaces where the stagnant fluid has been drawn, but this would normally be a long time. When I say this I mean that you would likely see some discolouration/tarnishing there in the stagnant area, compared to the channels, it may not actually be actual corrosion as such, given it is nickel plated, but it will just look different to the rest of the block. Anyway, I would be absolutely amazed if any cleaning products or flushing got rid of what you can see there now to be honest, without taking it apart.

You best best I guess would be to see if you can get the motherboard replaced and start again with nothing more than clear fluid. Or otherwise just live with it as it won't be affecting the performance of the setup at all, and I can well imagine Asus blaming EK and EK blaming Asus, or there will be some get out clause they have about it just being cosmetic. It would actually have been better if they'd designed the block without that little window, so you'd be none the wiser about it.
 
Bubo said:
I can understand why EK have made this block hard to take apart and it is probably because to put it back together would be an absolute nightmare with trying to ensure all the 5 separate o-rings in the 5 separate cavities, that I can count on a see-thru image of the block, and trying to get them all in their oddly shaped grooves whilst not being able to see most of them as you nip everything up. I imagine they basically don't want anyone messing with it as it would lead to customer support tickets and so forth.

I can see that it is unsightly, the little black squiggles are probably air bubbles trapped between the acrylic and the metal. If you pressed that area with your finger while it is running you might be able to persuade them to get out of there, it there is any flex in the acrylic.

I agree it is the choice of coolant which is exacerbating how it looks as in any block with an area like this, where you have large stagnant areas where ideally you don't want to find a way through, but inevitably it does as there will always be a gap between the acrylic and the metal. With this type of coolant you'll get the added disadvantage of the particles dropping out where it is stagnant there. Even with a totally clear coolant you would eventually get something like this developing over a long period of time because you would end up with crevice corrosion taking place between the closely mating surfaces where the stagnant fluid has been drawn, but this would normally be a long time. When I say this I mean that you would likely see some discolouration/tarnishing there in the stagnant area, compared to the channels, it may not actually be actual corrosion as such, given it is nickel plated, but it will just look different to the rest of the block. Anyway, I would be absolutely amazed if any cleaning products or flushing got rid of what you can see there now to be honest, without taking it apart.

You best best I guess would be to see if you can get the motherboard replaced and start again with nothing more than clear fluid. Or otherwise just live with it as it won't be affecting the performance of the setup at all, and I can well imagine Asus blaming EK and EK blaming Asus, or there will be some get out clause they have about it just being cosmetic. It would actually have been better if they'd designed the block without that little window, so you'd be none the wiser about it.
Click to expand...
Thanks for the post, I've been looking at ultrasound bathing using soapy water (deionized-destilled water). That might loosen up the particles and then clean/flush with water. If all else fails I might buy the non-glacial edition (same motherboard) but not with the monoblock otherwise I would have to buy a new CPU/memory etc. currently have the 11900F CPU and 64 GB memory installed.
 
It's just visual isn't it?
No effect on flow or temperatures?

How does the chipset block connect
To the cpu and vrm block?
Am guessing you can remove it in parts/pieces
Even though its a monoblock
Guessing it's not machined all in one piece
Do wonder if the chipset doesn't need the watercooling
Just for aesthetics

Though bypassing that part
Would also be a last resort strategy
Also wondering if try to open that part
And break the acrylic could you just add another
Bit of acrylic?

Edit
Even maybe be cheaper
To get the chipset part custom made in all acrylic
Than buy the non glacial motherboard
 
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Mcnumpty2323 said:
It's just visual isn't it?
No effect on flow or temperatures?

How does the chipset block connect
To the cpu and vrm block?
Am guessing you can remove it in parts/pieces
Even though its a monoblock
Guessing it's not machined all in one piece
Do wonder if the chipset doesn't need the watercooling
Just for aesthetics

Though bypassing that part
Would also be a last resort strategy
Also wondering if try to open that part
And break the acrylic could you just add another
Bit of acrylic?

Edit
Even maybe be cheaper
To get the chipset part custom made in all acrylic
Than buy the non glacial motherboard
Click to expand...
it looks like visual for the moment , but it might get worse further down the road. Temperature still good, RTX 3080 TI at max running at 60 degrees and CPU roughly the same. Reason why I want this cleaned is due to buying the RTX 5090 with a new waterblock, don't fancy like installing that expensive kit while it's got gunk swimming around the loop.

That monoblock cools, CPU, MOSFET, power delivery chips, Z590 chip, other smaller chips and ssd nvme m.2 X3. It does cool allot on the motherboard.
 
bitsandbytes said:
it looks like visual for the moment , but it might get worse further down the road. Temperature still good, RTX 3080 TI at max running at 60 degrees and CPU roughly the same. Reason why I want this cleaned is due to buying the RTX 5090 with a new waterblock, don't fancy like installing that expensive kit while it's got gunk swimming around the loop.

That monoblock cools, CPU, MOSFET, power delivery chips, Z590 chip, other smaller chips and ssd nvme m.2 X3. It does cool allot on the motherboard.
Click to expand...
Yeah absolutely wouldn't want to install a waterblocked 5090
Unless you know there's no gunk or debris
In there
Not that i would recommend a 5090 to anyone
With the current market prices
Though that's another story altogether
 
Yeah they would
Never looked but probably same ingredients
More or less as mayhem blitz
which also is probably made from some chemicals
you could purchase cheaply and then they added
a big mark up too for putting their name on it
Just don't order it from ek themselves
Get it from any retailer where it's actually
In stock
So you know it will arrive quickly
 
Evening all,

Finally got around to cleaning my MB and GPU waterblock as well.

MB clean.
Used EKWB clean and superflush, not bad results but would have been better to open (I just don't fancy like breaking the glue on the back). Would have been much better results if I were to clean and flush after a year's use.

https://flic.kr/p/2r75FZU

https://flic.kr/p/2r7bVYX

https://flic.kr/p/2r7acV1

https://flic.kr/p/2r7ba4f

GPU waterblock clean
Decided to take apart and gave it a good clean using warm soapy water, rinsed in distilled water and finally used a non-abrasive polish. Nice results.

Before:
https://flic.kr/p/2r75G1L

Cleaned
https://flic.kr/p/2r7bW1A
https://flic.kr/p/2r7bpVZ
 
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Big improvements there nice job
The monoblock isn't perfect but definitely more than
Good enough
The risk of dismantling it to polish it
Just not worth it for a little more improvement
Visually

Now you're good at it
Pop over and do mine :cry: :cry:
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Big improvements there nice job
The monoblock isn't perfect but definitely more than
Good enough
The risk of dismantling it to polish it
Just not worth it for a little more improvement
Visually

Now you're good at it
Pop over and do mine :cry: :cry:
Click to expand...
Thanks mate, yeah same thoughts. Good enough for the monoblock. Don't fancy like breaking anything.

The GPU block was tough, one the screws didn't want to budge. Had to buy a extractor kit, that was fun and ended up only removing the head (drilled a tiny hole into my finger in the process lol). Luckily that screw wasn't important and was only used for the smaller backplate (not for the passive backplate).

Yeah, don't mind. Pop into the post :-)
 
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bitsandbytes said:
Thanks mate, yeah same thoughts. Good enough for the monoblock. Don't fancy like breaking anything.

The GPU block was tough, one the screws didn't want to budge. Had to buy a extractor kit, that was fun and ended up only removing the head (drilled a tiny hole into my finger in the process lol). Luckily that screw wasn't important and was only used for the smaller backplate (not for the passive backplate).

Yeah, don't mind. Pop into the post :-)
Click to expand...
Yeah those screws are probably too small
For an extractor to work
Drip of superglue on the screw and screwdriver
Then put baking soda on it
Has worked for me before
Though couldn't reuse the screw but got hundreds of
Tiny screws from dismantling laptops
In the past so usually can find one that fits

Have now managed to dilute the deep purple coolant
To a very pale pink
Without dismantling anything
Usually would have a drain port on bottom radiator
To make life easier
But couldn't fit it in with this distro
So just can't get the last few % of coolant out of bottom radiator
To be able to end up with clear coolant

Not sure even if I was able to lift the pc into the kitchen
That I could remove the gpu to clean the block
Without taking absolutely everything out the case
This evga ftw3 3080ti block and active backplate is an
Absolute behemoth
Can't even see anyway to release the clip
Without taking motherboard out with gpu still in there
The block extends 3 inches past even my eatx motherboard

The joys of old age,bad health and custom watercooling
 
Mcnumpty2323 said:
Yeah those screws are probably too small
For an extractor to work
Drip of superglue on the screw and screwdriver
Then put baking soda on it
Has worked for me before
Though couldn't reuse the screw but got hundreds of
Tiny screws from dismantling laptops
In the past so usually can find one that fits

Have now managed to dilute the deep purple coolant
To a very pale pink
Without dismantling anything
Usually would have a drain port on bottom radiator
To make life easier
But couldn't fit it in with this distro
So just can't get the last few % of coolant out of bottom radiator
To be able to end up with clear coolant

Not sure even if I was able to lift the pc into the kitchen
That I could remove the gpu to clean the block
Without taking absolutely everything out the case
This evga ftw3 3080ti block and active backplate is an
Absolute behemoth
Can't even see anyway to release the clip
Without taking motherboard out with gpu still in there
The block extends 3 inches past even my eatx motherboard

The joys of old age,bad health and custom watercooling
Click to expand...
Thanks for the tips :)

Ah damn, that's a tough one to drain without a drain valve or some kind of drain port. First open water loop I built didn't have any kind of drain port/valve, but it was soft tubing with disconnects, not to bad to work with.

That evga ftw3 3080ti is a beast, I've always gone for the aftermarket GPU coolers. Slightly smaller in size. Hope you get the rest of the old coolant out of the loop, good luck with it mate.
 
That's quite an impressive cleaning job without having to tear it down. What cleaning fluid did you use? I've only ever used the Mayhems blitz kit, which is great for radiators but I wasn't that impressed by the full system flush/balance fluid that comes with it.
 
Bossman said:
That's quite an impressive cleaning job without having to tear it down. What cleaning fluid did you use? I've only ever used the Mayhems blitz kit, which is great for radiators but I wasn't that impressed by the full system flush/balance fluid that comes with it.
Click to expand...
Good morning Bossman,

Thanks, I used "EK Water Blocks EK-CryoFuel Loop Cleaner + Superflush (Concentrate 250mL) Fluid". It was tough to find on the web (UK reseller), had to buy one part from WCUK and the other from Overclockers. Although EKWB has both in stock, the shipping cost to the UK is mad, its like around £30.

If you do decide to buy the stuff, grab the instructions from EKWB website :)
 
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