CPU fan speed not showing in BIOS or any software.

Yeah that’s right. I would expect that cable to be a 4-pin, but it’s only 3-pin. I tried running the PC with one fan on cpufan1 and the other radiator fan on cpufan2 but then the cpu started to overheat (99°C) which made me realise you must still power the pump using that 3 pin. Therefore, I could get a new splitter, which connects the two fans to cpufan1 and connect the pump to cpufan2.

However, that means I still lack any control of my Corsair cooler with the CL software. That makes me speculate that there is something wrong with my cooler unit, because the miniUSB port doesn’t work (as it doesn’t appear in device manager, which it should) and I can’t monitor pump speed or change RGB.
 
Jack_Wills11 said:
Yeah that’s right. I would expect that cable to be a 4-pin, but it’s only 3-pin. I tried running the PC with one fan on cpufan1 and the other radiator fan on cpufan2 but then the cpu started to overheat (99°C) which made me realise you must still power the pump using that 3 pin. Therefore, I could get a new splitter, which connects the two fans to cpufan1 and connect the pump to cpufan2.

However, that means I still lack any control of my Corsair cooler with the CL software. That makes me speculate that there is something wrong with my cooler unit, because the miniUSB port doesn’t work (as it doesn’t appear in device manager, which it should) and I can’t monitor pump speed or change RGB.
Click to expand...

Yes, powering the pump is absolutely essential.

I'd do as you suggested, plug the pump into CPUFAN2 header and try to set this to max voltage (no fan curve) so that pump spins at max RPM. Ignore the pump's splitter, leaving that empty.

Plug the radiator fans to CPUFAN1 header, using a new splitter (i.e. not the pump's splitter). The radiator fans should then be able to be controlled by BIOS settings.

Then you can ignore the Corsair software. I would personally rather not have to install additional software anyway, so doesn't seem like a great loss if your pump is still getting appropriate amount of voltage.
 
The pump has one cable which plugs into the CPU fan header on the motherboard, another cable from the pump has two connectors which is used to connect the radiator fans.

You also get a cable with a USB header on one end which plugs into the motherboard, on the other end of the cable is a mini USB plug, this connects to the mini USB port on the pump.

Sounds like the pump is faulty if you have confirmed the CPU header is working.
 
Key with this current AIO is making sure the pump is actually still working. Make sure you monitor temps closely and see if you can hear the pump spinning.
 
@an0nym0us Yes sure. The only problem I might run into is setting its voltage to ad high as possible so the pump spins as fast as possible, because I have no way to monitor the pumps RPM, seeing as that 3pin from it is useless.
 
Hi, I just want to ask, have you plugged in the SATA power connector for the AIO pump itself into a confirmed functioning SATA power connector from your PSU? To reiterate, this AIO gets its power to power everything else; the pump, the connection to the USB, and the fans, by having its own power source, so if the SATA connection isn't plugged in. There will be nothing working.

I can understand the motherboard pins maybe in trouble, but not along with the USB connection at the same time. If the pump dies, you should still see the details at least somewhere. But right now, it reads like there's no power to the AIO unit at all.

:: edit ::

Ah, pay me no mind. It seems I found the wrong information on the GTX (which doesn't use a SATA connector) and got the standard H100i model details (which does use a SATA connector).
 
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Jack_Wills11 said:
@an0nym0us Yes sure. The only problem I might run into is setting its voltage to ad high as possible so the pump spins as fast as possible, because I have no way to monitor the pumps RPM, seeing as that 3pin from it is useless.
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The CPU temps will be a good indicator if the pump isn't working. Monitor idle CPU temps and load CPU temps to see if they're reasonable vs ambient.

If the temps are ok, I'd just keep using the AIO.

When the system is idle, you might also be able to hear if the pump is spinning.
 
@Meddling-Monk ah ok. I was just about to say I don’t have sata power for mine.

@an0nym0us I think that’s how I’ll have to do it.

Right now I’m trying to purchase a fan splitter, however the one that I can get same day seems like it won’t work. Since a previous user said on this thread that a fan splitter drops the Tach wire (rpm) on one of the connected fans, otherwise the mobo would receive a confused reading. This splitter and many others don’t seem to be built like that.
 
So my splitter has arrived and the install is successful. However from boot, just in BIOS, my CPU is essentially idling at 47°C. I have no clue why it’s so hot. Even with CPU fans on 100%, it’s at 47°C
 
Yes, that does seem hot for BIOS temp reading. Does it stay around that range when idling in Windows for a while?

Make sure to keep a close eye on temps if you put your CPU under load.

I can think of some potential reasons for the high idle temp:
1. Pump is maybe not spinning quickly enough. If your idle temps keep increasing over time, your pump may not even be spinning at all.
2. TIM between CPU die and IHS may have dried up and become less effective.
3. Current heat wave is maybe skewing results due to high ambient temp (any idea how hot your ambient temp is?)
 
Ok, I’ll have to boot into windows and monitor idle and load temps there.

I could hear the pump working (occasional scratchy sound), but I have no way of setting it to 100% because the pump doesn’t obey the BIOS.

Ambient temperature could be the reason. My room is upstairs where it is warmer. I’ll put the AC on and see if it cools down at all (unlikely as my monitor is very hot).

Could also be to do with age of the dye, however I don’t recall it being that hot a couple of days ago.

I’ll let you know what the temps are like. I’m going to leave CPU radiator fans on a curve rather than 100%.
 
HWMonitor is saying 32°C for CPU, and that’s fairly steady.

GPU is showing 47°C, but I’m fairly sure it said that temp was for CPU in BIOS.

I’m gonna put it under load and see what I get
 
Jack_Wills11 said:
HWMonitor is saying 32°C for CPU, and that’s fairly steady.

GPU is showing 47°C, but I’m fairly sure it said that temp was for CPU in BIOS.

I’m gonna put it under load and see what I get
Click to expand...

If HWMonitor is giving contradictory readings to your BIOS readings, maybe HWMonitor is reporting incorrectly.

You may want to try HWiNFO instead:
https://www.hwinfo.com/download/
 
Not sure if power saving modes are used in BIOS, which would cause higher temps.
Anyway you know when pump isn't running from CPU cooking up at idle/desktop.
Without active coolant circulation there simply isn't any cooling, because stationary water is actually more like heat insulator.
 
Just checked my bios temps and CPU is ~ 48°C in bios, but RealTemp, CoreTemp and HWMonitor all say ~ 26°C. Never had problems with tempretures so inclined to beleive bios is wrong.
 
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