CPU overheating H110i at fault?

N19h7m4r3

N19h7m4r3

N19h7m4r3

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Ireland
I have a corsair H110i GT that's now idling my system in the high 60's at stock speeds and mid 80's when overclocked.

Specs are
i7 5820K4.3Ghz 1.25v Been running this since the system was built March 2015
Asus X99 Deluxe
Fury X mounted at the back of the chassis
Corsair 32GB RAM DDR4
Corsair H110i with two Noctua Industrial 2000rpm AF14s. Mounted on the top.
EVGA G2 1000W PSU

Well I recently noticed my system was running hotter than usual while rendering and encoding in Premiere Pro, at first I thought it was just the summer. We've been having a hotter than usual one in Ireland where I am,

Then my system started hitting the 90's, then mid 90's and then 104! Well over specs, and it used to max around 80's during long encoding and rendering times.

vJZX4ss.png


I took off the cpu block, as I thought something might have gone wrong there. Cleaned it off, applied new Thermal Grizzly Kryonaut using credit card technique/thermal grizzly spreader

Temps were still hot, so took it all apart again, and tried the X method. Still nothing.
I noticed a bit of a rattle from the CPU block after that installation as well, and I'm now running the CPU downclocked just to be able to post there.
It's currently idling in the high 60's, and so is the pump. The pump is apparently at 64 degrees as well, and also at ~3150RPMs. Although if I change the pump speed lower the temps skyrocket even more.

I've also tried loosing and tightening the CPU block down more to see if it was possibly a contact issue, but each time I took the block off the spread looked decent.

I take it I just need to replace the entire closed loop cooler to get this sorted? It also doesn't help I'm using the H440 chassis, although I was considering replacing it soon'ish with the Enthoo Luxe.

Does anyone have any ideas or suggestions?
 
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Before I say it's probably the pump failing'
How old is your H110?
When was the last time you cleaned the fins in radiator?​
 
doyll said:
Before I say it's probably the pump failing'
How old is your H110?
When was the last time you cleaned the fins in radiator?​
Click to expand...

I cleaned the radiator and fins less than a month ago when I installed the new Noctua fans, as one of my Corsair stock ones started to rattle.

I also clean out my system weekly, as I have cats.

I bought the CPU cooler late 2014 if I recall.
 
It seems it might be the pump. Pumps are the weak link in these CLCs.

If you decide to come back to air cooling, I can help. Top air coolers are as good as CLCs and quieter. The key is setting up case airflow so cooler can gets cool air and you will be golden.
 
Well I just want to be able to run my CPU at 4.3Ghz without high temps when gaming or encoding videos in Premiere Pro.

I know my current case; the H440 is terrible for airflow, and it was always a bit of a hot box. I was looking into replacing that as well, and I just need room to adequately cool my Fury X as well.

The main reason I went for this setup was because I wanted cool and quiet, and my Corsair Dominator RAM heatsinks are really tall, which always looked like they'd be an issue on most CPU Air cooler.

I currently barely have clearance with my Fury X.

Got any suggestion for a chassis and cooler?

34o13Qw.jpg
 
I just shook the thing with all my pent up rage and installed it again. On the system now after 15 minutes at Stock speeds and voltage I'm idling at 45 degrees in Core Temp and 50 degrees in Corsair Link. A massive improvement; but still hotter than it use to be.

I use to get an average CPU temp of 48 in Firestrike Ultra at 4.3Ghz 1.2v, and it peaked at 69 degrees after an hour of encoding in Handbrake and Premiere Pro.

The pump itself is also at 44 degrees, it use to be much cooler than the CPU package.

Although when I started the system back up I heard a god awful LOUD "WHIR" coming from the pump. I tapped the pump a bit harder than expected and the awful sound stopped.

Although I can now hear the pump; there's still a little whir sound, but it doesn't sound like a small blender anymore. I was never able to even hear the pump with it at Performance mode ~3150RPM.

I really does look like the pump is going, either from wear and tear, or as mentioned it had a stuck particle or some trapped air in there; which has caused the motor to wear out.

My comparison my Fury X is idling at 31 degrees.

Either way it looks like I'll have to replace my H110i soon; as that annoying slight whir sound is there, and louder than the fans.

My main issue with large air coolers is the access to other parts. The Noctua NH d15 on my motherboard means it'll be impossible to remove my GPU without first removing the cooler. A massive pain to be sure, and the better AIO coolers like the EK 240 are extremely thick, making installation a hassle in most chassis.

For the first time in years I feel kinda lost as to what to get :/
 
snips86x said:
Mine failed in the same way, went back to air cooling. Far more reliable.
Click to expand...

Issue is what is good enough to cool my system when overclocked and encoding without interfering with my GPU on the motherboard or the Fury X radiator.

My H440 chassis is also godawful at airflow, I like the look of it; but regret getting it when it came out now.

I was looking into getting the Enthoo Luxe as it looks far better for airflow, and has that massive 240mm fan up front.

Plus it can take decent rad, and my Fury X. Although what the airflow will be like than with just the bottom front fan; who knows.

Open to some suggestions though. I just need the chassis to be quiet, and cool, as it's just outside of arms reach on my desk. I doubt having direct sun on it for all of a working day from a 3m wide windows doesn't help temps either.
 
Yeah, your case is not very good.

The Enthoo Luxe is very good, but the 200mm fan is not. Most users replace it with 2x PH-F140SP and all is good. The bottom filters can be easily modded so all come out the front for cleaning .. no case moving required.
Define R5 is also good and quiet .. and has bottom filter pack that slides out the front as well.

Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Evolv are nice too.
Nanoxia are quiet.

Get a white case. :D
 
The system is stable at 4.3Ghz at 1.2V so far, and I only ran Aida64 for 30 minutes to look at temps. Averages look meh, and those max peaks are terrible. Even my Fury X was getting close to 40 degrees while idle.

Taking off the front panel and dust filter for the h440 didn't help either.

During the entire test I could hear that whir from the pump. It doesn't look like it can push enough fluid anymore, despite running at ~3150RPM.

10 minutes after the AIDA64 test I'm now idling at max of 49 according to Core Temp and AIDA64; and I can still hear the pump.

Aida64 Stability test images
TgOyoZw.png


vbYi5BR.png


9PURp8I.png

So now what to do. EK240 and Enthoo Luxe, or Noctua NH D15 ( which might have issues with my RAM and GPU )

If I opt for the Ek240 I'll have to mount it in the top and Fury X at the back, but that means the only cool air coming in is from the bottom front 240 case fan.
Doesn't seem too ideal for temps.

If I go for the Enthoo Luxe and NH d15 I'll have to put the Fury X rad up top, but AMD don't recommend it being horizontal apparently, and when I looked at images online it seems the CPU cooler will have to be removed if I want to remove my GPU.

Images of similar setup, but using H440.
yu8dsv0.jpg

7S74Wh8.jpg

Or would a chassis like the Corsair 750D Airflow be a better fit? I know wanting cool under heavy load and quiet at the same time is hard, but there must be something. Dust filters are also a must really, as I have cats, and already live in a dusty enough area; where I need to clean my system every weekend ideally.
 
doyll said:
Yeah, your case is not very good.

The Enthoo Luxe is very good, but the 200mm fan is not. Most users replace it with 2x PH-F140SP and all is good. The bottom filters can be easily modded so all come out the front for cleaning .. no case moving required.
Define R5 is also good and quiet .. and has bottom filter pack that slides out the front as well.

Enthoo Pro and Enthoo Evolv are nice too.
Nanoxia are quiet.

Get a white case. :D
Click to expand...

I saw Joker Productions has the Enthoo Evolv with the EK 240 up front, and says his 6800K overclocked reaches around 70 degrees peak while encoding in in Premiere Pro. Although I'm not sure how cool the chassis will be inside with the rad pulling hot air through.

His system

I thought the chassis looked a little cramped myself, nearly like the H440.

Also I can't seem to find the Enthoo Pro, everywhere seems to have replaced it with the Luxe.
 
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I think I would put it in the top as exhasust, not front as intake. And also block all holes not used by radiator in the radiator tray so none of the heated air coming out of radiator into top leaks back down into case.

Enthoo Pro is same case and both are same age.
Here's link to it on their website.
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro.html
 
doyll said:
I think I would put it in the top as exhasust, not front as intake. And also block all holes not used by radiator in the radiator tray so none of the heated air coming out of radiator into top leaks back down into case.

Enthoo Pro is same case and both are same age.
Here's link to it on their website.
http://phanteks.com/Enthoo-Pro.html
Click to expand...

Hmm Looking at this post I can see why Joker put his at the front of the system. Apparently with Asus X99 motherboards like ours the thick rad either doesn't fit up top, or if you make it fit it's putting quite a bit of pressure down on the motherboard power connectors.

https://www.reddit.com/r/watercooli...to_fit_an_ek_predator_into_a_phanteks_enthoo/

Also it looks like even if I manage to fit it up top it means there won't be space for my Fury X radiator at the back.

I wonder would it be possible to have the rad at the front but as an exhaust, and the fury x at the back as exhaust as well. Then have 3 120m NF F12's up top pushing cool air down into the system?
The extra 3 fans is quite the little extra premium though.

As much as I like the EK 240 it seems it's thick rad and pump/res combo which allows it to cool so well it also quite the hindrance to install.
 
Looking at the Enthoo Evolv some more, EK lists it as compatible on their site with the Ek 240, but that fit looks rough to say the least.
I might just barely be able to squeeze in my Fury X rad on the back there.


0cb7a373b442477a841d0f47238d4f27.png
 
N19h7m4r3 said:
Looking at the Enthoo Evolv some more, EK lists it as compatible on their site with the Ek 240, but that fit looks rough to say the least.
I might just barely be able to squeeze in my Fury X rad on the back there.


0cb7a373b442477a841d0f47238d4f27.png
Click to expand...
Image has a 25mm thick fan in back. How thick is your Fury X?
 
doyll said:
Image has a 25mm thick fan in back. How thick is your Fury X?
Click to expand...

The Fury X rad+fan is 65m. If you scroll up to my current set up you can see the H110 just barely fits with it as well.

If there's enough clearance I could fit the EK and the FuryX.

Also going through the Phanteks forum it seems the Evolv isn't that great for exhausting hot air, even with 360 and 280 rad combo.

http://phanteks.com/forum/showthread.php?488-Evolv-ATX-Heat-Airflow-Issues

Seems the Luxe might be the better fit, but on EK's compatibility show it mounted in the front of the chassis as well. Seems the Luxe's top is too low down, hence that reditor having to cut the chassis, and get new M4 screws to mount it up top.

11c2eecaa931474aa2ca200885864cb2.png


It seems to fit fine in the Enthoo Primo, with what looks like enough room for the Fury X.
Although the intakes at the front bottom aren't too far are they? The chassis is absolutely massive from the looks of it.

e503e8a2407c457b9426f4d9d9dba947.png
 
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