CPU tempatures high

[steveveg]

Hi
Could anybody give me some advise i have recenlty upgraded my processor from a intel celeron to a intel pentium 4 640 retail boxed with intel heatsink fan. I have a Packard Bell imedia 1307, ever since doing this i am experiencing high tempartures, i am using PC Wizard 2007 to monitor my system and when idling with 0-4% cpu usage it hovers around 54-57c, i assume this is quiet high as most peoples are around 40-47c. When i first installed it i got a thermal temparture error and my pc kept shutting down. I was advised that maybe i did not put the heatsink on properly and maybe the pins werent in right so i pushed really hard on the pins and one of the pins clicked into place. This got rid of the thermal temparture error message and my pc boots up fine now. Only problem is now the high tempartures whilst idling. After 2 weeks at runnning at these tempartures i was advised to apply some thermal compound so i used arcticsilver5 but still my tempartures are high, and i can assure you the pins are pushed in propely on the heatsink fan. Its a 2 year old pc that cost £350 so i certainly not going to through money at it i.e water cooling and all that business. Any help would be very much appreciated. I keep getting people saying its my case ventilation but may i point out i have done exactly the same has an other person with exactly the same Packard Bell pc and cpu upgrade and his idles at 45-49c. I have seen these on overclockers website does anybody think these would make a difference or is there an easier solution.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...=57&subcat=821

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showpr...=57&subcat=821

Thanks, steveveg

 

[CyZMyAssBaby]

Hi Steveveg and welcome,

When you applied the artic sliver did you clean the of the old thermal paste properly? When reapplying the artic silver did you use a large amount or an amount say equivlent to a grain of rice?

If the latter, too much thermal compound will affect the temperature creating higher temps i would clean old thermal compound of again using Alcohol or if you have any TIM Clean fluid and cotton bud. Reapply artic silver in the middle size of a grain of rice, using a credit card for example spread the thermal compound evenly over IHS and remount stock fan. Monitor temps over the next 24hours using core temp for example or pc wizard 2007. If temperatures are still an issue then consider upgrading the cooler. Do you have enough air flow in the case?

Regarding the links in your post lead to overclockers main page, if a particular item repost links

 

[RJC]

Also check your fan RPM, it might need adjustment in BIOS, ie set for quiet mode.

Rob

 

[steveveg]

Hi Steveveg and welcome,

When you applied the artic sliver did you clean the of the old thermal paste properly? When reapplying the artic silver did you use a large amount or an amount say equivlent to a grain of rice?

If the latter, too much thermal compound will affect the temperature creating higher temps i would clean old thermal compound of again using Alcohol or if you have any TIM Clean fluid and cotton bud. Reapply artic silver in the middle size of a grain of rice, using a credit card for example spread the thermal compound evenly over IHS and remount stock fan. Monitor temps over the next 24hours using core temp for example or pc wizard 2007. If temperatures are still an issue then consider upgrading the cooler. Do you have enough air flow in the case?

Regarding the links in your post lead to overclockers main page, if a particular item repost links

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby i followed the instructions from arcticsilver website, yes i did apply a small ammount the size of a grain of rice but i applied it to the cpu and i did not spread it i just put the fan back on. Like i say i followed the instructions from the arcticsilver website, has for cleaning it i did not use alcohol i just used cotton buds but the surface of both the heatsink fan and cpu looked clean, may this be the problem. Has regarding airflow i am not sure like i say in my earlier post i followed the steps from somebody else with exactly the same pc system and they are having no problems, my chassis is here on this website.

http://support.packardbell.com/uk/item/index.php?i=spec_altissimo&ppn=PB13316901

 

[Jleo]

@ steveveg

The retail heatsink would have had a thermal pad on it...did you remove the thermal pad before applying the Arctic silver? I'm asking because rubbing the heatsink with a cotton bud will not remove the thermal pad. Btw I don't mean to imply anything but some peeps have done stranger things

 

[Corasik]

P4's were pretty variable on their idle temperatures, some were hot, some were even hotter . It had major issues with current leakage which were never really resolved. The 6xx's were the best of the bunch, but still had these issues.

Whats more important is the load temperature, as the leakage increases idle temps, but has less impact on a fully loaded processor. So the difference between idle and load temps are often smaller on P4's that chips like Core2 Duo. Its not uncommon for P4's to reach high 70's on the retail heatsink, even with a well vented case. As long as your not in the 80's and the alarms arnt going off, I wouldnt worry about it too much. You may even have some overclocking potential. Just ignore the idle temps and look at your load temps instead.

 

[CyZMyAssBaby]

Hi Steveveg,

I would agree with Corasik post as described. If the heat issue is still of a concern, if i can suggest re-cleaning the IHS and CPU using this product
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=OA-001-AK&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=27

The general conclusion is all old thermal paste should be cleaned/ removed. Old deposits of thermal paste can leave a residue even not visable to the eye which can hinder heat transfer.


If you do decide to re clean for example using the above product the cotton bud method application allow to stand for approx 2 minutes and use bud to clean. Follow up using kitchen towel allow to stand for the fluid to evaporate. Reapply AS to cpu only and reseat fan mount.

 

[steveveg]

@ steveveg

The retail heatsink would have had a thermal pad on it...did you remove the thermal pad before applying the Arctic silver? I'm asking because rubbing the heatsink with a cotton bud will not remove the thermal pad. Btw I don't mean to imply anything but some peeps have done stranger things

Thanks for that but the heatsink did not have a thermal pad on it, it was a boxed retail Intel Pentium 4 640 inc. heatsink fan and already had its thermal solution applied?

 

[steveveg]

Does anybody recommend using the thermal pads instead of thermal solution its looks more straightforward and more viable to me?

Thanks, steveveg

 

[steveveg]

Hi Steveveg,

I would agree with Corasik post as described. If the heat issue is still of a concern, if i can suggest re-cleaning the IHS using this product
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=OA-001-AK&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=27

The general conclusion is all old thermal paste should be cleaned/ removed. Old deposits of thermal paste can leave a residue even not visable to the eye which can hinder heat transfer.


If you do decide to re clean for example using the above product the cotton bud method application allow to stand for approx 2 minutes and use bud to clean. Follow up using kitchen towel allow to stand for the fluid to evaporate. Reapply AS to cpu only and reseat fan mount.

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby sorry to be a donut but when you say IHF do you mean the intel heatsink fan
Thanks, steveveg

 

[steveveg]

P4's were pretty variable on their idle temperatures, some were hot, some were even hotter . It had major issues with current leakage which were never really resolved. The 6xx's were the best of the bunch, but still had these issues.

Whats more important is the load temperature, as the leakage increases idle temps, but has less impact on a fully loaded processor. So the difference between idle and load temps are often smaller on P4's that chips like Core2 Duo. Its not uncommon for P4's to reach high 70's on the retail heatsink, even with a well vented case. As long as your not in the 80's and the alarms arnt going off, I wouldnt worry about it too much. You may even have some overclocking potential. Just ignore the idle temps and look at your load temps instead.

Thanks Corasik my temps under load hover around the 60-70c i never noticed it go higher than 70, in bios it ranges between 60-63c, so you would say this would not cause any damage in the long run or should i go for a new cooler heatsink fan like this one
http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-041-AK&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=821

Thanks, steveveg

 

[CyZMyAssBaby]

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby sorry to be a donut but when you say IHF do you mean the intel heatsink fan
Thanks, steveveg

Hi Steveveg clean both the CPU, and yes you are correct (IHF) Intel Heatsink Fan

Regarding the link to the fan try the cleaning method and reseat remonitor temps. Allow the AS to embed though. If the temps are still not ideal in your opinion try the alternative heat sink. Personally i would try the latter first as more cost effective. Approaching from a step by step elimination process narrowing the cause down.

I have used the Artic Pro 7 cooler http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=HS-017-AR&groupid=701&catid=57&subcat=821 on my E6600 (at stock) and acheived 28 idle and 48 underload with this cooler/ overclocking to 3.4 underload at 56. The reviews are good if you search. The pro 7 is my personal preferred cooler though. If the coolers come with pre applied thermal paste i clean and remove, reapplying AS only to the CPU and reseating the cooler. This is my preferred method as it has allways given me good results

 

[steveveg]

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby
If i were to go with that one would i need to change anything in bios, i think intel and the akasa automatically change settings in bios with this (PWM) Intel approved power management. These are the setting i have at the moment.

CPU Configuration
CPU Internal Thermal Control [Auto]
Hyper Threading Function [Enabled]
Intel(R) SpeedStep(tm) Tech [Auto]

Hardware Monitor
CPU Q-Fan Control [Enable]
CPU Fan Ratio [Auto]
CPU Target Temperature [60degC] (lowest setting available)

Thanks, steveveg

 

[CyZMyAssBaby]

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby
If i were to go with that one would i need to change anything in bios, i think intel and the akasa automatically change settings in bios with this (PWM) Intel approved power management. These are the setting i have at the moment.

CPU Configuration
CPU Internal Thermal Control [Auto]
Hyper Threading Function [Enabled]
Intel(R) SpeedStep(tm) Tech [Auto]

Hardware Monitor
CPU Q-Fan Control [Enable]
CPU Fan Ratio [Auto]
CPU Target Temperature [60degC] (lowest setting available)

Thanks, steveveg

As you state Steveveg, you are correct. Both the Akasa &The artic pro 7 is pwm . No you wouldnt need to change the bios setting unless you wanted to set fan speed rpm maually via (CPU Fan Ratio). The above settings look fine.

 

[Corasik]

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby
If i were to go with that one would i need to change anything in bios, i think intel and the akasa automatically change settings in bios with this (PWM) Intel approved power management. These are the setting i have at the moment.

CPU Configuration
CPU Internal Thermal Control [Auto]
Hyper Threading Function [Enabled]
Intel(R) SpeedStep(tm) Tech [Auto]

Hardware Monitor
CPU Q-Fan Control [Enable]
CPU Fan Ratio [Auto]
CPU Target Temperature [60degC] (lowest setting available)

Thanks, steveveg

Looks perfect, that means the fan will be at low speed when CPU is less than 60 degrees (probably explains why your idle is higher than your friends. he may have the cpu fan on full speed all the time). But yours will sacrifice absolute minimum idle temperatures for peace and quiet. A nice comprimise imho.

Anyway 60-70 degrees for a 640 is fine, its not like you can expect to get Core 2 Duo temps with a P4 anyway. I've seen these chips run for months at almost 80 degrees.

You've got thermal control enabled, so if the CPU exceeds around 85 degrees it will slow itself down to prevent damage.. but at 70max thats not going to happen anyway.

I'd say everything looks fine, your load temps are warm, but certainly not unusual and not a problem at all. The thermal compound on the retail fan looked like strips before you installed right? Intel didnt use pads on many of its hottest chips. Their pre-applied compound is 'ok' not fantastic, but you would only save a couple of degrees with Arctic Silver 5.

If the temps still bother you, then you can always install a more efficient heatsink than intels 'retail' heatsink.. But unless its too noisy and it bothers you, or your looking for a good overclock, to be totally honest, I'd be happy with what you have.

 

[funksteruk2]

i had a P4 with ran as hot as hell (prescott) these are noted to run hot and like has been said they run fine even at the top end of 70 degrees, i had oc,ed the chip aswell from 3.2 to 3.6, my bro has that chip now and its still running well and its over 18 month old

 

[steveveg]

As you state Steveveg, you are correct. Both the Akasa &The artic pro 7 is pwm . No you wouldnt need to change the bios setting unless you wanted to set fan speed rpm maually via (CPU Fan Ratio). The above settings look fine.

Thanks CyZMyAssBaby i will give it a month or so but i am interested in the arctic cooler pro 7 though and i may purchase it, its got good reviews, hope this doesnt sound like a daft question but which way does the dam thing go in do i have the fan pointing to the back of my pc or the front, just to mention aswell i have no other case cooling. I have read that i will need some sort of exhaust fan to extract the hot air, is this correct or dont i need one. Thanks, steveveg

 

[CyZMyAssBaby]

Hi Steveveg

for the artic pro7 you would indeed mount it so the fan is facing frontwards so it is exhausting air towards the back/ rear of the pc. Does the rear of the pc case have fan mounting options? It would be ideal to exhaust the excess hot air out of the case given off by the Pro7 cooler, or any other cooler .

If fan mounts are not available, one could modd the case by either drilling 80 or 120mm using a circular cutter on a drill.

Depending what size fan you want to use. If you are able to go 120mm that would be a better option, althougth pending on the dimensions of the pc case, ie available surface area.

Installing the fan is a simple modd, sounds painful? but its not really. In the longterm it does pay dividends.

You could post in the modding section with a pic of rear of the case and ask suggestions. There are some great modders in that section that will be able to offer some great advice.

Nothing ventured is nothing gained! The joys of pc's (smile)