cracking open the power link
- Thread starter jpaul
- Start date
Chains aren't directional as far as I know.
I have a small nail hammered into the side of the shed at just above head height, I can't remember why it's there but it's perfect for hanging a chain on!
So I hang it up, dribble lube down it, let it settle for a bit then wipe it down.
It's quite handy as it's always a pain untangling when the chain gets coiled up, hang it vertically, no problems!
I have a small nail hammered into the side of the shed at just above head height, I can't remember why it's there but it's perfect for hanging a chain on!
So I hang it up, dribble lube down it, let it settle for a bit then wipe it down.
It's quite handy as it's always a pain untangling when the chain gets coiled up, hang it vertically, no problems!
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yes I have 5l of Swarfega degreaser (<£10 B&Q) only used a small bit in 5years
diluted in a big coffee jar .... still need to scrub with a toothbrush then rinse hot water.
(some nitrile gloves since stuff whilst not like petrol I used to use, still aggressive)
I have just changed to try and switch regularly between two chains (access to the
kitchen off peak hours to clean) - hence I have a clean chain off the bike and now need to lube it ?
diluted in a big coffee jar .... still need to scrub with a toothbrush then rinse hot water.
(some nitrile gloves since stuff whilst not like petrol I used to use, still aggressive)
I have just changed to try and switch regularly between two chains (access to the
kitchen off peak hours to clean) - hence I have a clean chain off the bike and now need to lube it ?
In case anyone wanted the Park power link tool , on offer at Halfords & others as £10.99
spent 45minutes yesterday and gave up trying to get the dam chain off to clea, so had to clean in situ.
another thread on removing powerlinks fwiw
spent 45minutes yesterday and gave up trying to get the dam chain off to clea, so had to clean in situ.
another thread on removing powerlinks fwiw
Just be careful it doesn't contain salt if you're leaving a chain to sit in it, as it'll start to rust! You'll see the same if you clean drivechain components with washing up liquid or baby-wipes. I use this, almost as cheap as yours and may work better as it's a dedicated industrial strength degreaser.
As for power/master/quick-link removal, 'invest' in one of the real tools. I picked up an X-Tools (CRC) or Lifeline (Wiggle) one in one of their regular sales for about £3.70. Saves so much time & hassle! Previously I had bent the noses on an old pair of needle nose pliers into moon shapes to fit them, worked ok but would mark links and could be fiddly on a slippy lubed link, wouldn't recommend. In an emergency I previously used a combination of zip ties and swearing, wouldn't recommend that either!
I'll just leave this here (hard winter, salted roads commuting & lots of mud & miles)...
Thanks I have not tried that particular pliers configuration (as Roady recounts, was also on the verge of bending finer needle noses between adjacent rollers)
Just be careful it doesn't contain salt if you're leaving a chain to sit in it, as it'll start to rust! You'll see the same if you clean drivechain components with washing up liquid or baby-wipes. I use this, almost as cheap as yours and may work better as it's a dedicated industrial strength degreaser.
As for power/master/quick-link removal, 'invest' in one of the real tools. I picked up an X-Tools (CRC) or Lifeline (Wiggle) one in one of their regular sales for about £3.70. Saves so much time & hassle! Previously I had bent the noses on an old pair of needle nose pliers into moon shapes to fit them, worked ok but would mark links and could be fiddly on a slippy lubed link, wouldn't recommend. In an emergency I previously used a combination of zip ties and swearing, wouldn't recommend that either!
I'll just leave this here (hard winter, salted roads commuting & lots of mud & miles)...
The data sheet for the swarfega I mentioned does contain 'salts' BENZENE SULPHONIC ACID , C10-13-ALKYL DERIVS., SODIUM SALTS
The ingredients of the Virosol you use are less clear wrt to salt but it is alkali and says
the swarfega is not something you want on your skin either though - I use gloves when scrubbing.
maybe there is justification to use more expensive dedicated bike brands eg muc-off, or maybe they are just pre-diluted versions of these.
The amazon virosol reviews include this
I was not going to spray it directly into bearings
but had contemplated using some diluted and sprayed in that vicinity - but I am sure even the expensive brands have the same reservationaddendum - inconsistently the amazon virosol product picture does not seem to show words eco-safe per their title, and its ingredients with 'harmful to aquatic life' not so eco ....
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Just be careful it doesn't contain salt if you're leaving a chain to sit in it, as it'll start to rust! You'll see the same if you clean drivechain components with washing up liquid or baby-wipes. I use this, almost as cheap as yours and may work better as it's a dedicated industrial strength degreaser.
As for power/master/quick-link removal, 'invest' in one of the real tools. I picked up an X-Tools (CRC) or Lifeline (Wiggle) one in one of their regular sales for about £3.70. Saves so much time & hassle! Previously I had bent the noses on an old pair of needle nose pliers into moon shapes to fit them, worked ok but would mark links and could be fiddly on a slippy lubed link, wouldn't recommend. In an emergency I previously used a combination of zip ties and swearing, wouldn't recommend that either!
Yeah I have some pliers that open/close a split link. Really good.
Picked these up a few months back and used them for the first time on Saturday, very convenient. Still used the crank to pop it shut though
but I was showing a friend how it'd be done normally but hadn't occurred to me to use the pliers again 
Mine does have an 'Eco Safe' logo on it but equally reads that it's extremely harmful to aquatic life (think they all are)!
Mine gets washed down the drain (at the very least it'll help keep the drain clear!). I tend to 'pre-soak' everything first (so the whole ground area is wet already), then when I thoroughly wash everything down/rinse off the degreaser I also wash down the whole floor, sometimes using the opportunity to give that area of patio a scrub too! So mine is going down the drain very very very diluted!
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strategy that worked, to break it apart, was long nosed pliers across the powerlink (do not think I torqued the plates)
Left was the freshly baked chain after degreaser /toothbrush scrub/boil wash (toothbrushes are dam good - need to buy some cheap ones in bulk)
Strangely the outer side of the chain was corrosion free, but the inner/wheel side had face corrosion, have not seen that before ?
Left was the freshly baked chain after degreaser /toothbrush scrub/boil wash (toothbrushes are dam good - need to buy some cheap ones in bulk)
Strangely the outer side of the chain was corrosion free, but the inner/wheel side had face corrosion, have not seen that before ?