Custom Loop Build (Help)

ItsENiGMA · 11 Dec 2017 at 15:10

Hi All.

So, I've just migrated my system + new parts over to my new Case (View 31) - https://ibb.co/fNdrCw

I'm planning on upgrading my Mainboard to the ROG X299-E & CPU to the i9 7920X with new RAM.

I have already mounted my GPU on the vertical mount with a riser and love it. My 8 year old PSU died so I've just invested in a new 1000W Gold 80+ Corsair RM.

As you can see from the pic i have ample space for my Custom Loop that's why i chose the View 31, so this is where i need the help...

Waterblock - I'm pretty settled on my waterblock, looks great and the reviews again seem fantastic (unless someone has some advice/experience with it) - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-raystorm-neo-waterblock-intel-chrome-wc-440-xs.html
Radiator - Does anyone have any advice on which one and why? I have plenty of room so wanted a 360mm radiator with 3 fans for the roof of the case, i have ample room for a 360 mm radiator. Since there is a few i was considering this - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ek-water-blocks-ek-coolstream-xe-360-triple-wc-842-ek.html thoughts?
Pump/Reservoir Combo - I understand i need good flow etc especially since i plan on adding cooling for my GPU's in to the loop at some point, and since there are stacks of choice i thought this looked the best and has great reviews - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/ther...s-reservoir-and-pump-combo-rgb-wc-008-tt.html - Again, will this work okay in the loop and whats people's thoughts on it & is there anything i need to know?
Here's the part that i really need help with, Tubes and fixings. Do i go full hard (non-acrylic tubes) or soft tubes. If you recommend soft tubes, to make it look good, is it easy/good to use 90 degree compression fittings to give the tubes a straight look to them (hope that makes sense) Also what size tubes and fixings would i need as there are so many.
Lastly fluid, I've been looking at the different types and i like the look of the XSPC UV Coolant (pre-mixed) Thoughts on the best and where the UV is good and whats the best way to get an aesthetically good look from it. I also want to make sure i have a drain valve built in to the system, again what would i need for that in regard to the pump/res & fittings?

If I've missed anything please don't hesitate to point it out to me as im absorbing information like a sponge at the moment.

For whoever took the time to read and reply i thoroughly appreciate it in advance

Thanks!

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 15:50

Are you looking to cool the 7920x and your gpu with 1x 360mm rad?

I would also double check how much space you have up top, that rad with fans will be 85mm thick and may foul your ram.

ItsENiGMA · 11 Dec 2017 at 15:52

Doobedoo said:
Are you looking to cool the 7920x and your gpu with 1x 360mm rad?

Potentially yes, i did see somewhere that cooling 1 gpu and a cpu on 1 360mm radiator is more than adequate, was this false information?

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 15:54

ItsENiGMA said:
Potentially yes, i did see somewhere that cooling 1 gpu and a cpu on 1 360mm radiator is more than adequate, was this false information?

Not false as such but the 7920x is quite a beast and your temps might not be that great. What gpu is that out of interest?

ItsENiGMA · 11 Dec 2017 at 15:56

Its a 1060 at the moment, but theres a good chance come Feb/march time (when i plan on adding the GPU to the loop) it'll be one of the new NVidia Volta cards. I'm just planning ahead thats all

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 15:59

Well at least your gpu doesn’t output that much heat. Will you be overclocking?

ItsENiGMA · 11 Dec 2017 at 16:06

Doobedoo said:
Well at least your gpu doesn’t output that much heat. Will you be overclocking?

I have my CPU overclocked a little, but its nothing drastic by any stretch, sits at around 40 degree's under load and 33 idle. If i use the Dual Intelligent processors 4, it clocks it higher than i have it and it runs at around 50 degrees after around 3 hours of gaming (im no overclocking genius so i tend to leave it alone tbf) its currently running at 05% performance increase (i7 4770k)

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 16:09

Double check the space above your motherboard, that will determine how thick the rad can be.

The pump and res looks fine. The d5 pump is well known and about as good as you can get.

For your first build is probably better to go for soft tubing and then hard tubing at a later date if you feel like it. With soft tubing it’s a case of picking the diameter that you want and then the fittings to suit. 2 fittings per component plus a t-piece a tap and 3 more fittings for the drain valve.

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 16:10

ItsENiGMA said:
I have my CPU overclocked a little, but its nothing drastic by any stretch, sits at around 40 degree's under load and 33 idle. If i use the Dual Intelligent processors 4, it clocks it higher than i have it and it runs at around 50 degrees after around 3 hours of gaming (im no overclocking genius so i tend to leave it alone tbf) its currently running at 05% performance increase (i7 4770k)

I’m talking about the 7920x as they run hot especially when overclocked.

ItsENiGMA · 11 Dec 2017 at 16:16

Doobedoo said:
For your first build is probably better to go for soft tubing and then hard tubing at a later date if you feel like it. With soft tubing it’s a case of picking the diameter that you want and then the fittings to suit. 2 fittings per component plus a t-piece a tap and 3 more fittings for the drain valve.

The tube diameter needs to be correct in relation to fit the pump fittings thought right?

Also, if i want to have 90 degree turns on the tubing (like hard tubes do) would something like this be okay to use - https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc...ubing-90-rotary-fitting-chrome-wc-44x-xs.html

And whats the difference with compression / rotary / barb fittings?

Sorry if these sound really stupid questions but i guess ill never know if i dont ask

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 16:27

No all fittings will be G1/4“ bsp male thread it’s only the tube diameter that is different.

Compression is a fitting that uses an o-ring and a collar that you tighten to create the seal. Barb is just a fitting the tube fits over, then you would use a zip tie or clamp to fix it on to the barb. Rotary just means that the fitting can rotate 360 degrees as opposed to being fixed in one position.

The fitting you linked is for hard tubing so it would be no good for soft tubing.

ItsENiGMA · 11 Dec 2017 at 18:50

Isn't hard tubing (PETG) better? Everyone seems to want to use it over soft so there must be something in it

Doobedoo · 11 Dec 2017 at 18:56

ItsENiGMA said:
Isn't hard tubing (PETG) better? Everyone seems to want to use it over soft so there must be something in it

It looks better but it's harder to use as you have to heat it up to bend it and it also makes loop maintenance harder.

It doesn't perform better it's purely for aesthetics. That's it.

VKleita · 13 Dec 2017 at 09:50

Doobedoo said:
It looks better but it's harder to use as you have to heat it up to bend it and it also makes loop maintenance harder.

It doesn't perform better it's purely for aesthetics. That's it.

This

If you know you are going to keep the system with no changes for a long time then Hard tube is great, but it does involve a LOT more effort to get set up and any changes means new tubing being rebent into shape etc etc.

It does not perform better (Not quite sure how this rumour started seen up on a few threads on different forums now)

It more cost to have to buy soft fittings then change them to hard fittings later of course if you so desire.

Personally Ive stayed with soft due to the massive amount of changes I constant make in my pc....

ItsENiGMA · 13 Dec 2017 at 09:52

VKleita said:
This

If you know you are going to keep the system with no changes for a long time then Hard tube is great, but it does involve a LOT more effort to get set up and any changes means new tubing being rebent into shape etc etc.

It does not perform better (Not quite sure how this rumour started seen up on a few threads on different forums now)

It more cost to have to buy soft fittings then change them to hard fittings later of course if you so desire.

Personally Ive stayed with soft due to the massive amount of changes I constant make in my pc....

Thats great thanks for the advice, what kind of components do you have in your loop? (what model of radiator & cpu block etc)

VKleita · 13 Dec 2017 at 10:10

Hi again Enigma

Take most of my suggestions as just that, suggestions, water cooling is a hobby and I spend far too much money on it to be healthy.

I have the same CPU water block as you (Well the none bling version in black

)Which seems to be pretty awesome after the EK unit I had.
Same as yours just no RGB element so a little cheaper:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/xspc-raystorm-pro-waterblock-intel-black-wc-353-xs.html

Im personally using External Radiators cooled in a window arrangement, all very mad scientist, thus the constant need to unplug and move things round.

Im using Mayhems 13/19 tubing purely as I like the look and due to my long runs of tubing I'm trying to keep flow resistance down, it also comes in funky UV white which looks the bizz

it means I can use extremely large Quick disconnects which usually cause reduction in flow rate but the QD4's I have from Koollance are the best compromise
16/10 is generally considered the most "normal" I think these days.

Due to my massive Phanteks Primo case I have space for a large size pump (Aquacomputer Aquastream Ultimate not sold at OcUK) which means it can run at 3000 RPM be virtually silent and it monitors water temp this info is then fed to the Aquacomputer Aquaero which keeps an eye on everything and adjusts fan speed based on water temp and can even shut down the pc if temps get out of control etc.
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/aqua-computer-aquaero-6-pro-usb-fan-controller-bb-001-aq.html

A little silly but I enjoy it

One thing to remember when speccing up PLEASE include some sort of drain valve, believe me, it might be more cost up front but you will thank your lucky stars when you want to take it to bits later!

ItsENiGMA · 13 Dec 2017 at 10:18

Yeah i'm definitely going to be getting a drain valve, cost doesn't overly worry me to be honesty... the mad scientist look is definitely the best!

I think when it comes to Rad/pump/block etc i know what im going to get, im just in the scenario now of working out tubes and fittings. And as uve probably played a lot with it, getting the tubes looking their best to show it off. With soft tubes, rather than having lots of bends and looking like spaghetti, i was thinking more about cutting the tubes and keeping them straight with 90 degree fittings on the bends so it looks neat and tidy. Will that cause a lot of friction and effect the flowrate?

Also, whats the best way to make the coolant show up good? Light the case up as much as possible with external leds or put strips on the tubes for effect? Seen a few different people using so many random ways, wondered what in your opinion was the best.

Thanks for your advice, totally appreciated

Going to be an exciting Xmas! haha

VKleita · 14 Dec 2017 at 11:33

Hi Enigma,

As I said earlier I went with UV White tubing, as such the only place you can see coolant is in my res.

The mainboard and the case have Asus Aurus support, as such it lights my RGB mainboard in white and my white and UV strip that goes around the edge of the case.

I'm personally not a fan of pastal coolant or anything like that as I found over time it started to change colour, get the particles stuck in corners etc.

Soft tubing benefits over hard tubing that you can shape the tube and create soft bends for less flow Resistance but its not actually a big deal with a decent pump.
I like your idea of "90 degree bends" but really not sure how it would look as the soft tube cant really support itself it would just hang and might look a little strange.

for your first build id be tempted just to go "basic" you can always come back and change it later!

ItsENiGMA · 14 Dec 2017 at 14:32

VKleita said:
Hi Enigma,

As I said earlier I went with UV White tubing, as such the only place you can see coolant is in my res.

The mainboard and the case have Asus Aurus support, as such it lights my RGB mainboard in white and my white and UV strip that goes around the edge of the case.

I'm personally not a fan of pastal coolant or anything like that as I found over time it started to change colour, get the particles stuck in corners etc.

Soft tubing benefits over hard tubing that you can shape the tube and create soft bends for less flow Resistance but its not actually a big deal with a decent pump.
I like your idea of "90 degree bends" but really not sure how it would look as the soft tube cant really support itself it would just hang and might look a little strange.

for your first build id be tempted just to go "basic" you can always come back and change it later!

Yeah im not overly keep on the opaque colours, but i like the look of the UV ones, theyre obviously clear and i would imagine there is less change of a buildup! Id probably change coolant every 3-6 months for good measure anyway.

Whats the best way to flush the system, i get that the dranvalve gets it all out, but is there anything thats good to run through the system to clean it (the old coolant) ready for the new coolant to go in?

Doobedoo · 14 Dec 2017 at 14:54

You can use this stuff for cleaning the loop. https://www.overclockers.co.uk/mayhems-blitz-cleaning-system-wc-103-mh.html