Custom Loop - Fan Upgradeh

sellw88

sellw88

sellw88

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7 Feb 2012
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131
Hello!

Just wanted to get somebody else's opinion on this prior to buying.

At the moment I have a 240mm rad (top mounted) and 120mm rad (front mounted).

These are all currently running in push setup with SP120 quiet edition fans, and push pull is not viable for the top 240mm rad.

I'm not hugely happy with temps as when stress testing cpu and gpu (I know it's not a real world example) the temps just seem to creep up and up... And when playing the sims 3 (don't mock me :-P) my CPU was around 60-65 degrees @ stock clocks - admittedly the 7970 is max OC catalyst will let me set it to.

I'm not willing to start playing around with upgrading / changing rads this year (won't get it past the wife) so I might do the following to my fans:

Make the front 120mm rad a push pull with my SP120 quiet editions.
Put two SP120 performance / static pressure fans on the top 240mm.

Is having higher speed fans, and push pull on the smaller going to make much of a temperature difference?

Setup is as per the sig, however I'm now running a D5 Vario not the x2o 750.

Cheers for advice!
Sellw88
 
What case do you have? Are you getting much fresh cool air into it?

If you run with the side panel off do you get lower temps?

And what GPU temps are you seeing in game?
 
Case if Phantom 410.

With regards to airflow I have a 120mm on the front, sat below the rad, and then a fan exhausting on the rear - can try putting the fan that is currently on the rear onto the bottom pulling air into the case.

Not tried testing with the side panel off.

From memory you temps are around 50 - 55 but I will be gaming all morning so will keep an eye on that and update later.
 
Got a PIC? Where is the rad at the front?

I would try running with the side panel off first, if your temps drop a decent amount your not getting enough cool air in

Turning round the back fan wouldn't hurt to try either
 
Picture:
IMAG0117.jpg


Im going to move the fan from the rear and put it down the bottom anyway - can only help my situation.

Im guessing from your answers my fan 'upgrade' wouldnt help at all?
 
I'm sure it would but might just hide another problem, if you can get more cool air in and then a fan upgrade you might get even better results
 
Ive got the same feeling - im just trying to make the most of what i have now, without ripping it all apart, or, ploughing more money into it.

The top rad (which cannot be any bigger or thicker) is:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-032-BX

and the front rad is:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-XS

Next year when i do the fluid change, i will be open to changing the 120 rad for a thicker one - just not at the moment this computer has already made me broke!
 
Hi, really you should have a 360 + 240 to give reasonable temps, l had a i7 920:4.2ghz + 6970:950/1350mhz cooled by a 360 rad Mounted back of case, temps about the same CPU 60-65'c / GPU 55'c.

But know both cooled by a 560 rad[ free standing externally] CPU core's never go over 58'c / GPU 50'c at room ambient of 25'c gaming, using 4x140mm 900rpm fans.

Your case > Phantom 410 suggest putting a 140mm fan on the side panel should help cooling, pulling air into the case. Regarding the front rad l take it that its blowing the HOT air out the front of the case? If not its just heating the inside of your case even more.

Don't forget when room temps go up everything inside your case heats up as well making it harder for the rads to get rid of the extra heat.
 
sellw88 said:
Ive got the same feeling - im just trying to make the most of what i have now, without ripping it all apart, or, ploughing more money into it.

The top rad (which cannot be any bigger or thicker) is:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-032-BX

and the front rad is:
https://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-020-XS

Next year when i do the fluid change, i will be open to changing the 120 rad for a thicker one - just not at the moment this computer has already made me broke!
Click to expand...

Right.
Normally I wouldn't bother recommending push/pull, but since your top rad is pretty high FPI, it could probably benefit.
I have a horrible feeling that you don't have space for an extra set of fans on there though? Perhaps a set of scythe GT1850's would help a little, but either way I wouldn't expect miracles...

There's also the Haswell/Ivy heat issue due to crappy TIM on the IHS.
Delidding is probably out of the question I guess? I wouldn't blame you for not wanting to :)

ED; Reckon you could sneak one of these past the Mrs? ;)
YOUR BASKET
1 x Hardware Labs Black ICE Radiator GTX-Lite 120 £28.99
Total : £28.99 (includes shipping : FREE).

 
Last edited:
Oldphart:

The 140mm fan on the side panel would have been good, but my project this week was putting a full height window in - so that is no longer an option.

The front rad is pulling air in from outside over the rad, to inside the case... soo again that may not be helping my cause... would having it blow air out of the case not result in an odd air flow inside the case?
 
Uncle Petey:

Your correct, there is no space for push pull on the top rad, hence why i was thinking of putting the higher RPM fans on the top - would the Scythe's offer much improvement over the SP120 performance fans? (can hopefully get hold of a set of these relatively cheap).

In no way am i comfortable de-lidding my lovely £270 CPU - the thought of doing it is making me wince!

And as far as the GTX-Lite goes, i may be able to in september ;) advantage of the postie coming when she isnt home ;) Would the thicker rad offer significant differences to my temps?
 
I believe the GT's are a little better. They certainly are for noise.
If you can get the SP120's on the cheap, then go for those :)

Compared to the RS120, yes, that 57mm thick rad should do better. How much better, I couldn't say...

Tried reseating your cpu block?
 
Oldphart: This is where i show how much of a learning curve i am on with this :(

The rear fan blowing air out, or sucking air in?
The front rad / fan: Have the fan in push or pull config (or does it not matter?)

Uncle petey:
if after a few more gaming sessions i am still not happy with the temps i will get one of those rads (im sure i can exagerate somewhat to get it past the wife).

Not tried reseating the block as temps are consistent accross the cores, so asumed it would be ok.
 
The top and front of the case l notice you can fit 140mm fans, so you should be able to fit 280 rad top and 140 rad lower front?

If you can this would improve your cooling far better than 240 rad and 120 rad.

Top Cooling: 2 X 120/140mm (1 x 140mm included) fans
Front Cooling: 2x120mm or 1 X 140mm (1x120mm included)fans
 
Push, pull or push/pull on the front rad won't matter either way given it's thickness and fpi.
Filtered rear intake could help, but not much. I wouldn't expect anything noticeable.

Unless there's an issue with your cpu, the only way to solve this is with more rad I'm afraid :(
 
exactly what i was planning on doing when i spec'd this loop.
The top will take the 140 fans, however there is not a rad thin enough to fit in the gap without requiring hacking the lid to shreds.

To have a rad in the 140 spacing at the front would require me to have no hard drive bays at all.

Because of this i ruled the 140 and 280 out.
 
sellw88 said:
exactly what i was planning on doing when i spec'd this loop.
The top will take the 140 fans, however there is not a rad thin enough to fit in the gap without requiring hacking the lid to shreds.

To have a rad in the 140 spacing at the front would require me to have no hard drive bays at all.

Because of this i ruled the 140 and 280 out.
Click to expand...

Bummer m8.:(

You have also another option, just one large rad free standing externally like me using quick release fittings between the rad and case. Sell your rads and put the money towards it.

Its easier to fit, maintain, better temps and also costs about the same?:)
 
Have you tried dialling the D5 up/down during stress testing? it could be that the flow rate is impacting your loops performance. As others have said though you don't have the overkill rad space most of us go for with WC hence why your not really seeing better temps than you could get on air, so apart from a flow issue I can't really see a way to fix that without using faster (louder) fans or more/different rads.
 
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