Custom loop mould....

Glacius

Glacius

Glacius

Associate
Joined
6 Dec 2013
Posts
500
Hey all,

I made my first watercooled build about 6 months ago following and using advice from members on here and all went really well and have been using pc daily and all been great, but as of late i noticed the idle temp was about 37c and under load about 55c and obviosly that a lot higher than usual and having a look around the loop I found this, all be it bloody distgusting.

E74F57AB-EF51-4292-92A5-94252F2F9478_zps8c1jd2ds.jpg


1D3AB3D3-C2F4-4216-B48A-29EF00070366_zpswlnvu3b1.jpg


My pc is used every single day, I mean it does get hot in my room often as on third floor and sun pours in onto PC bUt surely this shouldn't happen in 6 months? Was mayhems premixed coolant so thought would have chemicsls in to stop this? When I run the pc I can barely if at all see any fluid even moving in the pub/res as previously I would see it bubble abit and moce up and down.

What should I do and how to fix this?

Thanks in advance.
 
drain and re-fill with new fluid tbh, might wanna have a look into a kill coil, from what im to understand that helps with any build up of anything like this, may even need to flush out a fair bit as well
 
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You need to drain all the fluid, dissassemble the loop, thoroughly wash out all the parts and get new fluid with a kill coil.
 
kiel367 said:
drain and re-fill with new fluid tbh, might wanna have a look into a kill coil, from what im to understand that helps with any build up of anything like this, may even need to flush out a fair bit as well
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He will need more than that, clean all of the parts to make sure the growth goes away for good and the blocks aren't clogged up. I would most likely throw away the tubing too.

Edit:Could you take some pictures once you take apart the loop? Thanks.
 
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Oh man that is mank! Whatever it is, it looks like sick!


Was any of your components second hand? And did you rinse all components new and used with distilled water in particular the pump and res? I usually take everything apart including the pumps and res and give them a good clean up to stop this kind of build up.
 
You need to strip it all down including the blocks. Give the rad a thorough flush as well. I would personally replace the tubing as well. If you want colour then get coloured tubing then use distilled/de-ionised water with a additive to prevent this happening again.
 
pastymuncher said:
You need to strip it all down including the blocks. Give the rad a thorough flush as well. I would personally replace the tubing as well. If you want colour then get coloured tubing then use distilled/de-ionised water with a additive to prevent this happening again.
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This

Use a couple of silver kill coils to stop it happening again.
 
Its mayhems premix so you dont use additives with it plus silver coil wont stop corrosion plus makes the water conductive not great if you lose a drop or two

Id be contacting mayhams about this although it might just be floating plasticizer its difficult to tell. What colour is the fluid supposed to be?
 
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Hey All,

Thanks for the replies and well all the parts where brand new from here no second hands parts where used, I think where I went rather wrong was I didn't flush the system with any kind of fluid at all, I literally fitted everything straight off and filled up with Mayhems UV Green Dye and went from there, Could the brand new parts of had something in to cause this??

Meant to be Green fluid as per the picture below:

955D296E-0779-4945-A071-8D176AC4F49D_zpsinenu4qb.jpg


If I got Green tubing and then used distiller water with a couple of kill coils would that stop this from happening again? Also where abouts would you put the coils?

Again thanks in advance for any help. Assume its ok to use PC at the moment if I need to? Only down side would be warmer temps?
 
Can you list all the parts in the system please. The fluid you used is good fluid with all the stuff in to stop this theres nothing that distilled plus sliver coil can do that the fluid you chose cant
 
stuie said:
Can you list all the parts in the system please. The fluid you used is good fluid with all the stuff in to stop this theres nothing that distilled plus sliver coil can do that the fluid you chose cant
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From his build thread:

Glacius said:
Spec is as follows:

Case: NZXT White Phantom 820 with a NZXT 810 Side Panel (Bigger Window)

CPU: AMD FX-9370

Motherboard: ASUS SABERTOOTH AMD 990FX

Memory: 16GB Corsair Vengeance Black (4x4GB) DDR3 PC31600MHz

Graphics Card: Powercolor Radeon R9 290X OC "BF4 Edition" 4096MB GDDR5

Hard Drive 1: OCZ Solid 3 120GB 2.5" SATA-III Solid State Hard Drive

Hard Drive 2: OCZ Solid 3 60GB 2.5" SATA-III Solid State Hard Drive

Hard Drive 3: Seagate 2TB SataIII

Power Supply: 1000W Corsair RM Series 80PLUS Gold Modular Power Supply

OS: Windows 8.1



Cooling is:

CPU Block: EK Supremacy Elite AMD Full Nickel CPU Block

GPU Block: EK 290X Water Block Nickel & Acetal GPU Block & EK 290X GPU Back Plate

Top Rad: XSPC AX360 White Radiator

Bottom Rad: XSPC AX240 White Radiator

Radiator Fans: Corsair SP120 Fans x 5

Reservoir/Pump: XSPC D5 Dual Bay Res/Pump with XSPC White Faceplate

Fittings: 12 x Monsoon White Compression Fittings

Fan Controller: Bitfenix White Fan Controller
Click to expand...
 
Glacius said:
I think where I went rather wrong was I didn't flush the system with any kind of fluid at all, I literally fitted everything straight off and filled up with Mayhems UV Green Dye and went from there, Could the brand new parts of had something in to cause this??
Click to expand...

All ways flush new WC parts, as you don't know how much they've been handled during assembly/inspection, or whether or not they've been thoroughly flushed after manufacture/testing, ive stuck to that routine & haven't had a manky loop in years.
 
Its a bit late to flush the system as the damage ( contamination ) is all ready done, your going to have to clean it the slow thorough way by stripping the loop, otherwise you run the risk of the mould coming back again.
 
So in short, best thing to do is remove everything from case, clean out each block by flushing them individually and same thing with top and bottom radiators and then replace all the tubing.

In terms of stopping this from happening again would some Green tubing with clear distilled water be better and then put 1-2 kill coils in the bay res? or would I need kill coils and some other type of chemical to add to the distilled water?
 
Don't flush your blocks, take them apart & visually inspect them as you'd be surprised what horrors you can find lurking inside a block from a mouldy loop. do the same for your pump, fill the rads with boiling hot distilled & let them sit for 15 mins then drain, refill with a fresh distilled water/biocide mix, heavy on the biocide, let them sit for an hour or so & don't drain them till your ready to rebuild your loop.

New tubing for your loop, a couple of kill coils, plenty of biocide & use pure H2O, & and wash your hands so you don't reintroduce any contaminants.
 
VoG said:
New tubing for your loop, a couple of kill coils, plenty of biocide & use pure H2O, & and wash your hands so you don't reintroduce any contaminants.
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Don't use water straight from your taps, just use deionised water plus you don't need kill coils and biocide as they both do the same job.
scotsdragon said:
Strip the loop clean out everything, new tubing as for the rads id probally use

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-103-MH

if the mould can survive an acid bath then give up :)
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Seems like overkill just to clean some rads out, I would most likely just fill the rads with hot water and bleach a few times, give them a good shake and rinse them off with deionised water.
 
No such thing as over kill if it stops it from happening again and the fact the kit comes with neutralizers and PH testing kits, id rather spend 25 quid and do the job right first time butt hats just me.
 
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