Associate
Hi guys!
I'm Tom, I'm one of the technicians at OcUK, and I'm here to let you into some of the goings on inside OcUK.
I'm going to start off by doing some quick build logs of our Infinity Systems and then some 8pack systems as we sell more of those.
And who knows, I might even be able to leak some teasers of new, upcoming builds that we have planned for the future!
I'll be writing little tips and tricks that I used while building watercooled systems throughout the build log, and I'll be happy to answer any questions regarding our systems, or just watercooling questions in general, so feel free to ask away!
Oh and before I continue, a cheeky little shameless plug for my own personal build log in the ultra sleek looking In-Win 904 chassis.
____________________________________________________________
Now that my little introduction is over, on with the build log!
The Infinity Quasar system is usually black and white, but as with all of our systems; they are fully customisable! So if you want to change anything, or personalise it just for you, you can do just what this customer has done and phone our sales team to make any changes you wish*!
* Obviously, we can't break the rules of physics here, but we'll try our best to help you out.
All build logs start off with a photo of all the boxes, and this one is no exception:
For this build, the customer has chosen a 500GB SSD along with 6TB of mechanical storage.
Don'd forget that you can customise your storage as much as you see fit with our custom systems! Make sure to contact our sales team if you have any questions regarding additional storage and RAID set ups.
Now on to the main components:
Maximus VI Formula with a built in water block.
And the part that separates OcUK from the rest: a cherry picked 4770k that guarantees stability at 4.7GHz!!
And of course, a small blob of thermal paste - no need to spread it.
Now with 100% more watercooling:
Also with some HyperX BEAST memory.
Onto the graphics cards: 2x EVGA 780Ti's
Both of these cards were tested before removing the coolers so that I wouldn't get a nasty surprise once the system was finished.
I'd always advise testing your hardware on air before removing coolers/installing waterblocks!
Speaking of removing coolers:
Warning, the following spoiler contains naked images. Viewer's digression is advised.
And with new thermal pads and the same blob of thermal paste:
Installing the waterblock:
Tip: when installing the waterblock, place the block on top of the graphics card after applying the thermal paste/pads. Next, flip the card and block upside down and place it on top of the waterblock box so that the bracket is hanging off the edge and the card can lay flat.
And here's what the cards looked like all tubed up:
Tip: when watercooling multiple GPUs, lay the motherboard on top of a box and install the graphics cards into the motherboard. Measure the tubing for between the two graphics cards, and remove them from the motherboard before fitting it.
This will make things a whole lot easier, and you won't risk damaging your PCIe lanes on your motherboard.
Next we move on to the pump and reservoir, but first I need to fit the pump top.
Always make sure you hide the cables at the back of the pump, and have any inlets/outlets you'll be using facing the right direction.
And, of course, make sure the O-ring is installed!!
If you're not using a pump/res combo, using a male-to-male fitting is the easiest way to connect your tube res to your pump:
Now it's time to start work on the case: the 750D
First things first, remove anything you wont be using:
The only modifications to the case are 2 holes to mount the pump to the HDD cages:
Always measure twice, cut once.
Added some vibration dampening foam and it's a perfect fit:
First thing to fit inside the case are the fans & radiators:
Another quick tip: when installing radiators into your case, screw one corner of each fan using regular fan screws. This will hold the fans in place while you hold the radiator in place.
It also helps to try and cable manage things as you go:
I use zip-ties to make sure the fan cables don't come unplugged when I start the cable management.
Speaking of cable management; if you're using extension cables, it's often much easier to attach them to the motherboard before installing the board, and threading them through any cable management grommets you may have.
Once the board is installed, I wire it up to the case's front panel and attach any tubing before the case get's too full, making it harder to reach.
As with the motherboard cables, it's also easier to attach the PCI cables out side of the case if you're going to cable tie them to the card.
Here's a picture of the cards installed and tubed up:
and the res back in place:
Now all of the components are installed, I can finish off the tubing runs.
Tip: always measure twice and cut once! I always cut an extra cm of tubing just in case. It's a lot easier to cut a little bit off than it is to add a bit on.
Once everything is installed, it's time for cable management!
Not everyone's favourite thing, but it helps to get the side panel back on.
Now the build is ready to fill up!
For this, I use some extra tubing and a spare fitting, along with a stop fitting so I don't spill any when rocking the case to bleed the air out of the loop:
Fill the res up and lay down some tissue paper so that it's easier to spot any leaks.
In case there are any leaks, I don't want to damage any of the components so I use an external PSU with a bridge on the 24pin cable to power the pump and nothing but the pump:
And then after several fills of the reservoir, the loop is complete:
Once the loop is filled, I leave a little extra fluid in the fill line, so that when the air bubbles bleed out of the system, the reservoir stays topped up.
That will stay leak testing over night, ready to install, overclock, and test in the morning!
Make sure to check back tomorrow for the benchmark results and finished pictures!
I'm Tom, I'm one of the technicians at OcUK, and I'm here to let you into some of the goings on inside OcUK.
I'm going to start off by doing some quick build logs of our Infinity Systems and then some 8pack systems as we sell more of those.
And who knows, I might even be able to leak some teasers of new, upcoming builds that we have planned for the future!
I'll be writing little tips and tricks that I used while building watercooled systems throughout the build log, and I'll be happy to answer any questions regarding our systems, or just watercooling questions in general, so feel free to ask away!
Oh and before I continue, a cheeky little shameless plug for my own personal build log in the ultra sleek looking In-Win 904 chassis.
____________________________________________________________
Now that my little introduction is over, on with the build log!
The Infinity Quasar system is usually black and white, but as with all of our systems; they are fully customisable! So if you want to change anything, or personalise it just for you, you can do just what this customer has done and phone our sales team to make any changes you wish*!
* Obviously, we can't break the rules of physics here, but we'll try our best to help you out.
All build logs start off with a photo of all the boxes, and this one is no exception:
For this build, the customer has chosen a 500GB SSD along with 6TB of mechanical storage.
Don'd forget that you can customise your storage as much as you see fit with our custom systems! Make sure to contact our sales team if you have any questions regarding additional storage and RAID set ups.
Now on to the main components:
Maximus VI Formula with a built in water block.
And the part that separates OcUK from the rest: a cherry picked 4770k that guarantees stability at 4.7GHz!!
And of course, a small blob of thermal paste - no need to spread it.
Now with 100% more watercooling:
Also with some HyperX BEAST memory.
Onto the graphics cards: 2x EVGA 780Ti's
Both of these cards were tested before removing the coolers so that I wouldn't get a nasty surprise once the system was finished.
I'd always advise testing your hardware on air before removing coolers/installing waterblocks!
Speaking of removing coolers:
Warning, the following spoiler contains naked images. Viewer's digression is advised.
And with new thermal pads and the same blob of thermal paste:
Installing the waterblock:
Tip: when installing the waterblock, place the block on top of the graphics card after applying the thermal paste/pads. Next, flip the card and block upside down and place it on top of the waterblock box so that the bracket is hanging off the edge and the card can lay flat.
And here's what the cards looked like all tubed up:
Tip: when watercooling multiple GPUs, lay the motherboard on top of a box and install the graphics cards into the motherboard. Measure the tubing for between the two graphics cards, and remove them from the motherboard before fitting it.
This will make things a whole lot easier, and you won't risk damaging your PCIe lanes on your motherboard.
Next we move on to the pump and reservoir, but first I need to fit the pump top.
Always make sure you hide the cables at the back of the pump, and have any inlets/outlets you'll be using facing the right direction.
And, of course, make sure the O-ring is installed!!
If you're not using a pump/res combo, using a male-to-male fitting is the easiest way to connect your tube res to your pump:
Now it's time to start work on the case: the 750D
First things first, remove anything you wont be using:
The only modifications to the case are 2 holes to mount the pump to the HDD cages:
Always measure twice, cut once.
Added some vibration dampening foam and it's a perfect fit:
First thing to fit inside the case are the fans & radiators:
Another quick tip: when installing radiators into your case, screw one corner of each fan using regular fan screws. This will hold the fans in place while you hold the radiator in place.
It also helps to try and cable manage things as you go:
I use zip-ties to make sure the fan cables don't come unplugged when I start the cable management.
Speaking of cable management; if you're using extension cables, it's often much easier to attach them to the motherboard before installing the board, and threading them through any cable management grommets you may have.
Once the board is installed, I wire it up to the case's front panel and attach any tubing before the case get's too full, making it harder to reach.
As with the motherboard cables, it's also easier to attach the PCI cables out side of the case if you're going to cable tie them to the card.
Here's a picture of the cards installed and tubed up:
and the res back in place:
Now all of the components are installed, I can finish off the tubing runs.
Tip: always measure twice and cut once! I always cut an extra cm of tubing just in case. It's a lot easier to cut a little bit off than it is to add a bit on.
Once everything is installed, it's time for cable management!
Not everyone's favourite thing, but it helps to get the side panel back on.
Now the build is ready to fill up!
For this, I use some extra tubing and a spare fitting, along with a stop fitting so I don't spill any when rocking the case to bleed the air out of the loop:
Fill the res up and lay down some tissue paper so that it's easier to spot any leaks.
In case there are any leaks, I don't want to damage any of the components so I use an external PSU with a bridge on the 24pin cable to power the pump and nothing but the pump:
And then after several fills of the reservoir, the loop is complete:
Once the loop is filled, I leave a little extra fluid in the fill line, so that when the air bubbles bleed out of the system, the reservoir stays topped up.
That will stay leak testing over night, ready to install, overclock, and test in the morning!
Make sure to check back tomorrow for the benchmark results and finished pictures!
Getting me excited for mine now 
