*** Desk and Room Gallery***

Associate
Joined
8 Apr 2011
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338
Sure thing.

The Alex Drawers come with some small sticky feet that you put on top (one in each corner), stops the worktop resting directly on the top of the Alex Drawer unit and scratching it.

For the worktop, first of all you'll want to sand it. I didn't bother sanding/oiling the underneath. I actually used my Alex Drawers as a make-shift stand (back to back) for the whole process! See: https://i.imgur.com/QtLNmT1h.jpg.

For sanding you'll want a few things;
  • A sander, I used a Black and Decker mouse sander. Started with a rough P80 grit, then a P120 grit, lastly used P240 grit.
  • Some kind of floor covering. I got some cheap plastic sheeting from Screwfix.
  • A dust mask, can't remember what I got, but worth investing in a dust mask that is good for stopping you breathing in the sanding debris. Screwfix sell these I think.
  • Consider getting some safety goggles to protect your eyes.
Once sanded, you'll want to oil it. I used Danish Oil. For oiling I got a few more things:
  • Danish Oil - I used Colron Refined Danish Oil.
  • A small paint roller tray to put the oil into. Screwfix should have.
  • A small brush to spread the oil onto the worktop. I didn't get the cheapest brush as I wanted one that would cover a bit of a surface area, and wouldn't shed hairs. Agin probably Screwfix.
  • Some Lint free cloths to wipe off excess oil after applications. Probably Screwfix again lol.
I gave the oil about 12 hours to dry after applying it for each coat.

I used 3 coats of oil in total. The first coat needs extra oil as the worktop seems "thirsty" for want of a better term. The later coats don't need anywhere near as much.

The most important thing is that you need to wipe the excess oil off the worktop pretty soon after applying it using the lint free cloths. If left too long it goes "sticky". I'd say you want to remove excess oil after 5-10 minutes tops after putting the oil on.

To keep the brush from drying out, I wrapped the bristles in cling film between applications. You could maybe get away with applying the oil directly using lint free cloths, but you'd need more cloths, however you wouldn't need the roller tray or paint brush.

Most things you need should be found at somewhere like Screwfix.

P.S. I think IKEA does worktops that don't require finishing, the "Karlby" is popular too but it's veneer not solid wood - pretty sure it doesn't need finishing. For longevity solid wood should win. For ease of installing the Karlby must win out.

Thanks for the info in the end due to my budget I ended up getting the cheaper worktop it was £40 I think they use laminate on top, Thanks for helping me out thou mate.
 
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28 Oct 2006
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457
In the middle is my hackintosh/pc with 40" 4k display. MacBook Pro either side and a couple of iPhones. iStorage encrypted external drive and USB hub under the display.

Few updates since this photo was taken. No longer use the main rig as a Hackintosh (got an RTX 2080Ti in there so now used only for gaming and have main MacBook Pro docked in an Arc and plugged into a CalDigit T3 Plus into DP on the 4k screen. I just switch between inputs now depending on whether I am playing or working. Next plan is to do a desk pc sometime in 2019 at which point I will probably go with UnRAID and install Windows via a VM with my RTX 2080Ti dedicated to it.

jfi4u9.jpg
 
Soldato
Joined
28 Jan 2011
Posts
7,376
Finally finished my setup. Will try and get a better shot on of the PC soon (those bland Noctua fans arent the most appealing :rolleyes:).. but here we go..

byRJ58H.jpg
 
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Soldato
Joined
13 Jan 2006
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20,875
Location
Wigan
anyone not got their desk against a wall?

i'm planning to have my desk in the middle of the room to one side with a tv on the wall.

Don't want to be pushed up against the wall straining to watch tv at same time.
 
Soldato
Joined
1 Apr 2014
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Aberdeen
This is my setup. There are far too many cables on the desk but I have a multitude of USB devices all with different connectors and it's better to leave the cables plugged in.


yTg0W84.jpg
 
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18 Jan 2012
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Peloponnese, Greece
Is that a Dan A4, martin? How are the 2080 temps, and what model did you go for?

It is a Dan A4, I have modded one side to allow a Big Shuriken 2 cooler to be fitted, which cools a 9700k @5ghz. Waiting for a Ghost S1 though which will fit the cooler without mod. The Dan then gets an older 4790k with a Noctua i9 and the original panel. Long answer. It is a great case though, I love SFF, and what you can do with it. in this case a Dan with a 2080 and an OC i7 :)

Temps are good, for SFF, 9700k @5ghz all cores tops out at 94c on 30 mins of Realbench, but typically are between 60 and 67c for normal use (gaming) Idles at around 31c. the 2080 is an EVGA XC, and tops out at about 77/78c without throttling. it is dead quiet too.

PDqG7KSh.png.jpg

It looks very precariously placed.

Perhaps, but the wall is in the way of it falling off, and it weighs a ton! plus I have no little feet etc. running around. the rubber feet are very grippy too.
 
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Soldato
Joined
1 Jun 2014
Posts
5,066
Thanks @martin363. I'll be picking up the latest revision of the A4 when it's released, and hopefully using it to house a 2080 and Ryzen 3000 series combo. It'll be great having such a portable but powerful system! The XC is the card I'm looking at also, so good to know temps aren't out of control. Cheers!
 
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Thanks @martin363. I'll be picking up the latest revision of the A4 when it's released, and hopefully using it to house a 2080 and Ryzen 3000 series combo. It'll be great having such a portable but powerful system! The XC is the card I'm looking at also, so good to know temps aren't out of control. Cheers!
It is a great case, and the XC is a good card too I think. Jealous on the 3000, but lets hope it beats expectations.
 
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