Difference in alloy and carbon frames?

[lawrence281]

https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXEC130/planet-x-ec-130e-rivet-rider-carbon-aero-road-frameset
Frame 1348g
Fork 448g

And
https://www.planetx.co.uk/i/q/FRPXRT58AV2T/planet-x-rt-58-v2-alloy-road-frameset
Frame 1540g
Fork 600g

For the price difference, I'm trying to understand why I'd go for carbon. Reading up, that carbon isn't as future proof as alloy as well. Can anyone explain please.

 

[Begbie]

Both different bikes ain't they?

As in different geo? I don't know much about road bikes, but the both look like they serve a different purpose. Weight isn't always crucial when looking into what material to use either. Stiffness etc.

 

[Saytan]

The first frame is an aerodynamic design. It takes a significant weight penalty to gain an aerodynamic benefit. A non aero frame at that price point could be 250g lighter

 

[BennyC]

Aero trumps weight more often than not. So consider the majority of the type of riding you plan to do. They'll also feel and perform differently.

 

[TallPaul1878]

There are some fantastic aluminium frames available now that really demand to be considered above carbon frames. The Cannondale CAAD 12 is an exceptional aluminium framed bike.

Carbon frames are still the most highly desirable but if I was looking at 2 bikes atvtbe same price and the aluminium model had a better groupset and wheels then I'd absolutely plump for that one over a lesser specced carbon frame.

There's a lot more to a bike that the Frame material.

 

[lawrence281]

There are some fantastic aluminium frames available now that really demand to be considered above carbon frames. The Cannondale CAAD 12 is an exceptional aluminium framed bike.

Carbon frames are still the most highly desirable but if I was looking at 2 bikes atvtbe same price and the aluminium model had a better groupset and wheels then I'd absolutely plump for that one over a lesser specced carbon frame.

There's a lot more to a bike that the Frame material.

Care to post any frame only links please?

 

[TallPaul1878]

Care to post any frame only links please?

https://masoncycles.cc/shop/categories/definition-bikes

https://www.merlincycles.com/kinesis-racelight-aithein-frameset-68044.html

https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/frames-c6/caad12-t301

Here are a couple to get you started. Aluminium is making a resurgence at the moment so there are plenty more. If you are looking at complete bikes at sub £2000 or frames under £1000 then you are going to be spoiled for choice with top quality aluminium offerings.

Sorry it took so long, I'm in the USA at the moment.

 

[Saytan]

high end aluminium builds a great non-aero race frame, and I think there'll always be a niche there especially for crash-happy crit racers, and I've always had the hots for the kinesis aithein


But Carbon you can do basically anything with. From a performance standpoint it's the perfect material for building bikes

 

[lawrence281]

https://masoncycles.cc/shop/categories/definition-bikes

https://www.merlincycles.com/kinesis-racelight-aithein-frameset-68044.html

https://www.westbrookcycles.co.uk/frames-c6/caad12-t301

Here are a couple to get you started. Aluminium is making a resurgence at the moment so there are plenty more. If you are looking at complete bikes at sub £2000 or frames under £1000 then you are going to be spoiled for choice with top quality aluminium offerings.

Sorry it took so long, I'm in the USA at the moment.

The Merlin frame looks really good! I'm looking to spend about £1200ish for a full build. Exclude wheels, I already have some mavic aksium.

 

[BennyC]

Trek have some aluminium offerings. I have the Emonda ALR for which the frame set can be had for £700 and a 105/Ultegra builds in the £1,200-1,600 range.

 

[TallPaul1878]

You'd be surprised but Decathlon have an excellent range of bikes called Btwin. Their top line aluminium models are ridiculously well priced for what they are and should definitely be put into consideration

 

[BennyC]

You'd be surprised but Decathlon have an excellent range of bikes called Btwin. Their top line aluminium models are ridiculously well priced for what they are and should definitely be put into consideration

"tis why I recommend them to most people looking to start out. Buying used can offer good value but equally can be a bit of a false economy when bikes that good are that cheap.

 

[lawrence281]

You'd be surprised but Decathlon have an excellent range of bikes called Btwin. Their top line aluminium models are ridiculously well priced for what they are and should definitely be put into consideration

I had a btwin triban 520 and it served me well for over 3 years. They are top notch bikes for that price, and we'll good quality. But it got stolen over a month ago. So contemplating if to pay a shop £100 to build me a bike, I choose the parts or to buy prebuilt. I honestly don't know what's better.
I want my next road bike to be blue, but don't see any options for frames anywhere lol.
I love cycling but have little knowledge of what's good or not.

 

[Saytan]

Always cheaper to buy prebuilt, the manufacturers have access to economies of scale you cant even dream of.

 

[TallPaul1878]

I paid £600 in 2014 for an aluminium framed Giant Defy, it came with Giant's own brand finishing kit and entry level Shimano Claris shifters.

Don't get me wrong, it's not a bad bike by any stretch of the imagination but Claris is most definitely entry level and I'm definitely finding it coming short in the mid range. When I'm climbing a long but moderate stretch I find the jump between gears too harsh and it could definitely do with 2 or 3 more gears in there.

Now I've had a bit more experience riding I am pig sick to find that Decathlon sell a Btwin Triban with Claris shifter for half that price at £300.

For the £600 I dropped on the Giant Defy I could have gotten a Shimano 105 equipped Triban and most likely not be looking for a new bike now.

Now I'm looking at the Btwin Ultra AF 105 and the Ultra AF Ultegra for £800 and £1100 respectively. Either of those and I'll probably never have to buy another bike again unless it gets stolen or damaged.

 

[Jonny ///M]

They are both pretty budget frames and aero is always a little bit heavier than a 'climbing' bike.

I'd agree with a good alloy frame/carbon fork + 105 over something like carbon/carbon + sora.

Decent brands have their lighter bike frame coming in at ~690g for a Trek Emonda, ~680g for the Merida Scultura/Wilier Zero6 and under 700g for the Cervelo R5Ca.

Just pick any big brand, decide if you want Aero, Sportive/Endurance or a typical road bike with 'aggressive' geometry. Probably something a bit more relaxed for so say Giant Defy, pick a groupset and frame choice that you can afford you'll be sorted.

I don't really like B'twins as they always seem to have some sort of weird geometry.

We were putting out Carbon framed Felt F4 with Ultegra, 3t finishing kit and Rs21 ~7.7kg for £1299. That would kick the arse off a B'twin any day of the week.

The same frame with 105 and own brand wheels/finishing kit ~8.1kg for £1080. That is really quite an aggressive bike that with decent wheels could be raced.

 

[lawrence281]

They are both pretty budget frames and aero is always a little bit heavier than a 'climbing' bike.

I'd agree with a good alloy frame/carbon fork + 105 over something like carbon/carbon + sora.

Decent brands have their lighter bike frame coming in at ~690g for a Trek Emonda, ~680g for the Merida Scultura/Wilier Zero6 and under 700g for the Cervelo R5Ca.

Just pick any big brand, decide if you want Aero, Sportive/Endurance or a typical road bike with 'aggressive' geometry. Probably something a bit more relaxed for so say Giant Defy, pick a groupset and frame choice that you can afford you'll be sorted.

I don't really like B'twins as they always seem to have some sort of weird geometry.

We were putting out Carbon framed Felt F4 with Ultegra, 3t finishing kit and Rs21 ~7.7kg for £1299. That would kick the arse off a B'twin any day of the week.

The same frame with 105 and own brand wheels/finishing kit ~8.1kg for £1080. That is really quite an aggressive bike that with decent wheels could be raced.

Thanks for the reply, I appreciate it. Well this bike would just be pleasure rides. London/countryside, long distance like 50-100 a session. I don't really understand the difference of modes or cycling, endurance etc? Could you explain, I just love cycling, but haven't looked into all this lol.

Also found this, https://www.trekbikes.com/gb/en_GB/...bontrager-pro-isocore-vr-cf-road-bar/p/14103/

I was thinking to go alloy frame set , and get this handlebars and possibly seat post if that's worth it?
I've already got mavic wheels, just need to decide on frame and group set

 

[Jonny ///M]

The main difference is the stack or height of the front end.

Race bikes are low and long so your back is flatter and more aero, endurance/sportive bikes are usually around 2cm higher in the head tube to sit you up higher with a straighter back.

Usually they also have a wider tyre 23 vs 25 or 25 v 28 etc for comfort, gear ratio on the cassette usually 11-32 rather than 11-25 or 11-28 to make clmbing easier and generally speaking have a more compact handlebar making the reach shorter again, drop of the bars not as deep and often gel under the bar tape for comfort. The newer adventure bikes take this to an extreme with 28-30mm tyres as standard and often 'sub compact 46-36 vs compact 50-34' chainsets designed to be useful off road

Aero bikes generally have a geometry similar to that of the race bike in the range.

I wouldn't bother with a £300 handlebar from what you are saying. Get the right style of bike, probably something more relaxed, make sure you get the right size and go from there.

Any niggles you can dial out as you go along, starting with a decent tyre combined with your Mavic wheels. Keep the standard wheels for worse weather.

If the road buzz is bad then try a comfier bar tape with gel inserts rather than an expensive bar.

 

[lawrence281]

The main difference is the stack or height of the front end.

Race bikes are low and long so your back is flatter and more aero, endurance/sportive bikes are usually around 2cm higher in the head tube to sit you up higher with a straighter back.

Usually they also have a wider tyre 23 vs 25 or 25 v 28 etc for comfort, gear ratio on the cassette usually 11-32 rather than 11-25 or 11-28 to make clmbing easier and generally speaking have a more compact handlebar making the reach shorter again, drop of the bars not as deep and often gel under the bar tape for comfort. The newer adventure bikes take this to an extreme with 28-30mm tyres as standard and often 'sub compact 46-36 vs compact 50-34' chainsets designed to be useful off road

Aero bikes generally have a geometry similar to that of the race bike in the range.

I wouldn't bother with a £300 handlebar from what you are saying. Get the right style of bike, probably something more relaxed, make sure you get the right size and go from there.

Any niggles you can dial out as you go along, starting with a decent tyre combined with your Mavic wheels. Keep the standard wheels for worse weather.

If the road buzz is bad then try a comfier bar tape with gel inserts rather than an expensive bar.

Thanks for the reply! There's just so much to take in, I just want to make sure I have the best ride possible, not too cheap not too expensive. I think maybe, I'd prefer an endurance style bike.

So should I go for a prebuilt?
I wanted to do pay a shop to do a custom so I could have it my way, possibly are there any good bikes you'd recommend that have a show room I could visit?
It's just soooo much haha,
My budget is about £1.1k

 

[lawrence281]

The btwin I had, was good enough quality for me. But stupidly I used it for courier work. Bad idea.
It's just a step up I want, even though the btwin range is perfect lol.