DIY ancient master socket improvements? (pics inc.)

Bane

Bane

Bane

Soldato
Joined
10 Jun 2005
Posts
2,604
Been looking at master socket as the wall has been re-plastered.

Before I start spending money and potentially get in trouble or see no improvement, I wanted to get some advice on old master socket and internal wiring replacement.

Used to get full 8,128kbps synchronization on ADSL max, and now with switch to ADSL2 I currently get between 22,000-23,000 kbps. Would be nice to max it as I'm close to exchange. Have tried two different modem routers using different chipsets; Broadcom and Texas Instrument (not the best for ADSL2 but achieved same speed).

The master socket is old, as the logo is a circled T using two dots for the right hand part of the T. Which Wikipedia lists as 1981-91 design.

Have an ADSL Nation faceplate (just over 10 years old) and using a hanging style filter made no difference.

Cable from pole goes to a block terminal box, which connects to white cable that feeds to an old BT logo master socket (circa 1980 to 1991 era logo). Not sure if white cable is CW1308 (found that name mentioned on a different thread here).

Cable from pole
btcable_zpsg5dkfgva.jpg


Block terminal box
blockext_zpse19pzjnp.jpg


Block terminal box internal
blockint_zps4ejdgdv3.jpg


Internal white cables from block terminal to master socket, and extension from master socket to secondary phone socket (currently not connected at master socket)
homecable_zpscrlrzndf.jpg


Rear of master socket
socketback_zpsbxy1nxyk.jpg


Front of master socket with ADSL Nation plate removed and filter connected
socketid_zpsz1gsqu4i.jpg
 
I'm not sure if you'll see much more as attainable rate drops very quickly from the exchange.

4 drop wires? Shouldn't there only be two wired up to the master socket? Even if not connected at the other end I wonder if they'd act as a massive antenna.
 
Amraam said:
Yeah I thought blue and white were the only two to come in from the outside and connect to AB?
Click to expand...

Had a better look at block terminal and it seems all four wires for internal cable are connected up in duplicate to it, and as you noticed the master socket too.

blockint2_zpshntbfnkk.jpg
 
FYI this is old wiring..

The blue/white are your actual connections

the Orange/White are you ring wires.. these were used in old style telephones to power the ringer.

The only thing you need connected to the master socket is the blue/white wire coming in from the cable outside. For new face plates they will usually have one point to connect the blue/white wires coming in and they will usually have a separate pre filtered terminal to plug the extension wire in..

I have replaced my master socket in two different house with no problems.

the only reason to keep that block terminal is if the master socket is not going where that currently is and you want the master socket somewhere else and you would sue the block terminal to extend the incoming wire.
 
In some of those pictures the orange and blue pairs are combined together. This effectively gives you a none twisted pair connection.

It's just about the worst way that cable could be terminated! Completely ridiculous!
 
I'll have a go at removing the duplicate wires in block terminal and rear of master socket tomorrow.

If there is a fault in cable, who is a decent supplier of CW1308 to order cut to length? As search for CW1308 brought back Tandy, Maplin, and plenty of unknowns suppliers with specifications that mean nothing to me. Don't even know if they use copper wire or aluminium, etc.
 
That is bizarre why it is wired like that. With the junction I'd whip the oranges out and shove one of those blues in their place, then going back to the master remove the oranges from there too and get one of those blues to the A or B.

Apparently A needs to be 0v to earth and B -50v.

CW1308 can be had on ebay for a good price. I've always had full copper and never had any issues when I've bought two or three lots from on there. You could probably get it from B&Q too. At a pinch you could use a pair from some solid core Cat5e.
 
Rip all the connections out of that junction box, gel crimp the white on the drop cable to the white/blue on the cable going to the master, and the orange to the blue/white.

Then replace the master socket with a new NTE5a from eBay (with the Openreach logo on to keep it all looking legit). Wire the blue/white to B and the white/blue to A - you might need a punch down tool for this but can get away with the freebie disposable ones.
 
Corrected the wiring by removing orange wires completely and moving blue wires in to correct positions. It's not made any difference, but I noticed the internal cable isn't copper, but silver coloured wires.

Plan to order a new NTE5A socket that includes back box and rear plate, and CW1308 two pair copper cable. See if that improves things. Might also get a vDSL I Plate MK3.
 
If you are planning on getting a NTE5 try temporarily connecting it right next to that junction box with as short a length of cable you can manage. Plug your router into the test port and you should get the best connection possible.

Then when you install the NTE in its permanent position you'll know whether you're loosing anything in your wiring or not. It could save you chasing sync that simply isn't available.
 
bremen1874 said:
If you are planning on getting a NTE5 try temporarily connecting it right next to that junction box with as short a length of cable you can manage. Plug your router into the test port and you should get the best connection possible.

Then when you install the NTE in its permanent position you'll know whether you're loosing anything in your wiring or not. It could save you chasing sync that simply isn't available.
Click to expand...

Good idea. Never crossed my mind to try that. Need to see if my electric extension lead is long enough to get modem router near enough to block terminal.
 
Bane said:
Might also get a vDSL I Plate MK3.
Click to expand...

This is the last type i installed about a month ago with our new fibre connection.. I swear they are easier to wire than a plug... whats great about them also is they have an extension port on the back that you can run to another RJ11 socket and use as an extension for the fibre router.

If you look on the bay there are people doing them as kits so you get the master socket and the second extension socket plus a length of cable.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top Bottom