Downsizing from TT Core X9 to the O11D XL + EK Front Distro plate

Both sets of rad fans pushing out?

Is there enough room for fans below the case for push / pull on a 60mm rad?

The side glass, I see there's a small cutout for a locating screw on the rear upright (just beside your rear fan) . Can the screw be taken out of the glass? I'm wanting to do a UV build and I'll be using the front and rear uprights to mount uv tubes...

since the cpu and gpu are being water cooled I’m using the rads as exhaust to get the heat out. I’ve always had good results doing it that way. If the gpu was air cooled I’d have more air coming in.
 
Cool. Upside is the fans look way better as well!

Any answer to the other 2 questions...?

This setup managed a push pull, but looks to be a 40mm rad

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Im not sure about the glass and screw. I don't see any screws in the side panel. Could you be a bit more specific on that one. Cheers
 
Cool. Upside is the fans look way better as well!

Any answer to the other 2 questions...?

I have actually now decided to do Bottom and Side fans as intakes and Top and rear as exhaust to follow the natural direction of hot air rising. It shouldn't look too much worse as I'm using the QL120s which are designed to go either way.
 
Are you not concerned about reducing the effectiveness of the top rad due to it sucking in hot air from the bottom rad?

The General consensus is to have bottom and side rads as intakes and top and rears as exhausts. My last build all rads were exhaust, but I had a decent amount of intake as well. Since I have probably a month plus to wait for all my parts still, Ill continue to research and find the most optimum fan configuration.
 
@OC2000 how easy your loop to bleed mines being a right batch, I've had the case all over the shop getting air locks out here and there. think my pump may be dying says its at full pelt but all I'm getting is a dribble out the top rad return

Im not quite there yet unfortunately. Still waiting the the CPU and Motherboard (Dark Hero) before I start the build. Will let you know once I'm there.
 
So yesterday I decided to put the water block on the 3090 Strix to do some testing and ensure everything was working properly. I will be re applying everything with much better thermal pads tomorrow as well as adding the MP5works on to it.

Its a shame as I won't be using this water block. The back plate causes horrendous coil whine when thermal pads are applied to the VRMS on the back. I have now Pre Ordered a Kryo Next 3090 Strix with active back plate, but will have to wait 2 months for it to arrive. I will continue my build with this in the meantime without the thermal pads on the back. Hopefully there will be enough room on the Active Backplate to fit the MP5works on it too.

Here are some pics.

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Initial testing has confirmed a 480 HW - SR2 struggles cooling this in a single loop with a CPU too. Temps were hitting 50 and the water was getting warm really quickly. Hopefully the 2x 360 Rads in the new build will do a better job.
 
Now all the parts have arrived, and my testing is complete its time to build the new PC. The following pics are the last parts.

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5950X next to the old 3950X

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For the motherboard assembly I tested spreading the thermal paste all over the die and in an X pattern. Ill be using the EK Quantum Momentum Monoblock as the CPU/VRM cooler.

With the X pattern I was able to run the 5950X at 4.9 / 4.8 all core at 1.37V and run prime95 at stock at 37C
With the all over paste I was able to run the 5950X at 4.85 / 4.75 all core at 1.35V (Anything more caused a reboot with temp warning) and prime95 at stock at 44C

Ill be using the X pattern in the final build. Kryonaught Extreme isn't easy to do a cross pattern as it comes in a pot with a spatula.

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Ill be continuing the build later today.
 
During my testing, I found the Ram runs really hot and needs some form of direct fan cover to cool it. Running OCCT the ram reached 50C in minutes. With a fan blowing over it, it never went over 30C.

Because of this, I will be changing the fan setup to have both Radiators as intakes and the sides as exhaust. The top radiator fans will then cover the motherboard with direct air, which is still better than ambient. The bottom rad will be blocked by the 3090 and most likely funnel out through the side exhaust.
 
Love the board with the block on it. What coolant are you going to be using?

I have both the EK Mystic Fog and EK Electric Purple. Im going to use Electric Purple though as I would prefer the tubing to be a different colour to the fans rather than blending in.
 
Update on the build. Yesterday I focused on wiring in the fans and finished with installing the motherboard and connecting some of the cabling to it. Realised II bought the wrong RGB splitter, so will have to order the correct one leaving me with only 2 none Corsair devices I can connect RGB to the motherboard too. For now it will be the mono block and the case lighting. The Corsair AX1500i technically shouldn't fit, but does only just. The AX1600i would have been a better choice here, but I wanted to use at least on thing from the last build.

Wiring 10 fans with RGB is a nightmare!

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Quick test to see it all works

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Motherboard installed

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Ill start tidying up the cables in the back before moving on to tubing with these.

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So Far its been quite challenging. The first issue was trying to keep the cables tidy. Which I have decided is impossible lol. Second the mono block inlet is on the wrong side, so had to do a work around. Really didn't want to do any tube bending, but I had no choice.

Here are some pics of todays progress. Still a ways off, but got the leak testing done.

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The RGB cable fell off this one. I have an Aqua computer block ordered though so not bothered.

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Sorry for the awful photos. Its been a long day!
 
Thanks for this, I also am choosing between the XL or non-XL. I was going to go non-XL since I don't want a distro plate, but do want 3 slim rads and a vert mount GPU. Your build makes me see that it will will not look like too much empty space in the XL version. Now, given I won't need the HDD space I just have to decide if it is possible to fit everything into the non-XL.

what’s not shown is the sound card that fits very comfortably you won’t get that with the non xl version. If you don’t plan on that you’ll get two slim 360 rads easily in the smaller version
 
Looks great, nice job well done.

On the inlet outlet port dilemma, one of the cleanest solutions I have seen from someone on Reddit looks like this:
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If you wanted to avoid bending, you could probably have an extension come out of the waterblock to make things line up, and turn the upper 90 degree fitting so that it aligns straight to the distro.

That said, your upside down U loop makes the build stand out.
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That looks really good. I had unfortunately not anticipated this, so had to do a make shift solution. Ill apply this though when my new GPU block comes. Thanks for the share.
 
Finished the build this morning.

Im not sure about the purple/pink liquid, it looks quite dark. Maybe the Mystic Fog would have been better. Ill probably try that when I change the GPU block when it ever arrives. Ill also redo the bridge tubing on the mono block using MrJB suggestion.
Additionally I am disappointed the BarrowCH inline temp sensor only has a display temp reading and doesn't send any data to a temp prob on either the motherboard or commander pro. This messes up plans I had for a fan profile based on water temp.

Temp-wise im also disappointed. I was seeing no higher than mid 70s in Cinebench at 4.85/4.75 or with PBO enabled. Im now seeing mid 80s. This could be due to a bad mount, but still within AMD spec. A run of Timespy also saw the GPU temp reach 38C. I have been used to my test bench though in a freezing cold room which is most likely the answer for these higher temperatures.

I haven't sorted the lighting out yet so it looks a bit of a mess, but here is the final build. Ill post more when I have a decent lighting profile setup over the next few days. Im also waiting on an ARGB splitter to get the distroplate lighting working.

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Sub 40 for GPU under load is good imo, but that CPU temp is very very suspect. I would expect 60-70 max under water. I have seen in other build logs, especially with EK monoblocks, that due to the thermal pads on the VRM and bad/misaligned instructions, the block not making any real contact with the CPU, people have literally had the block sit 1-2mm above the CPU. Then they went back and kind of figured out the right thermal pad layout. I'd definitely recheck this when you make the other modifications and update the GPU.

I did another round of testing after the water had cooled down from the GPU testing. Water was around 22C with initial tests. Second test the water was 15 and temps were very much where they should be. Prime95 at stock with the smallest fits was running at 36C and at 4.85/4.75 @ 1.37V Cinebench R20 ran at 75C which is good. It can do it at 1.325V, but wanted to test. I couldn't run 1.36V spreading the TIM over the CPU at those clocks previously. Another interesting thing was I have never seen temps go over 80C before. It would either be at 75C or would crash with a CPU over temperature warning on Bootup. Maybe one core wasn't as well mounted as the other. Ill check Prime95 smallest fft at alcove 4.4 today and see if it can cope with that. 4.5 instantly crashes with cpu overtemperature on the last mount I did. Will check if its the same again.
 
Fog would look a lot better imo!

I feel the same way, but I tried draining it yesterday and its a much bigger job than I thought it would be. Ill wait for the new water block to arrive as the only way to drain it would be to first completely clean it with distilled water. Its impossible to get the coolant out of each tube.
 
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