Drain Valve

at the lowest point of the system cut a t in the nearest piece of tube.....drill whatever hole necessary for whatever drain you buy and tube into it from said t piece...jobs a good-un
 
It's normally done using three barbs and an acetal T piece, or an all-in-one T with barbs already attached. I think this is what cammy means, though "drill" has thrown me a bit.

Ball valves are good things to include at the end imo, but they're not required.
 
what i have done in the past is used a danger den fill port to drain.... these require drilling your case normally at the top to fill but in this case on the bottom to drain.... its a little bit over kill but effective also... and keeps it neat
 
you want to make it as easy as possible so yes a cut off valve is good....but cut a t in at the lowest point and let gravity do its job otherwise you will have to lift and turn your case on its front/back to get the fluid out....which creates a risk of splash and shorting that you didnt need to take.... get it right the first time and you wont need to touch it again.
 
I have drain valves on my dual loop but I personally don't like the space they take up. So, when I get round to rejigging things my draining strategy is going to change such that I don't have the valve and ascociated tube connected to the loop all the time.

What I plan to do is make use of the extra ports on my EK res so that in normal use there is a blanking plug in the spare rez port, then when I need to drain I will siphon a bit of water out of the res via the top, then turn the case so that the air bubble is over the blank plug, take the plug off and fit a barb with tube and the valse on the end. Now I can put the case upright again and drain via the valve. In other words the drain line is only attached when needed. That's the plan anyway.
 
I feel similarly Bubo, though don't have the multioption res. Next time the loop comes apart I'll screw the valve directly to the T, and keep a length of tubing with a barb on the end lying around somewhere. So screw the tubing into the valve, open the valve, done.

Of course, the valve will be connected all the time, but it avoids the siphoning and removing blanking caps. So I guess it's a compromise between the standard drain line and your proposal.
 
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