Draining Loops - :D

Allnamestaken

Allnamestaken

Allnamestaken

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Joined
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Ipswich
Is it absolutely necessary for me to have a drain as part of my loop aka a hose leading off for me to drain the coolant? or is that something I can do without having to buy extra fittings? I may need to modify my current order if I need it for sure.
 
I don't think it's any great hardship to remove the CPU block then pull a tube off that and drain. Although on saying that.... I can't employ that technique in my new build :(

Should've maybe thought about that!
 
for the sake of £40 worth of bits you can save yourself a ton of time, fit a T piece, ball valve and plug in a low part of your loop then all you have to do is put your PC up high on a chair or table and stick a long length of tubing onto a barb screw that into the ball valve and open it.

Loop drains by mavity and you can do what you need with little hassel :)
 
I wish I'd included one when I built my original loop - it's not like buying a couple extra fittings costs that much, and while a t-piece drain line doesn't look great unless you hide it well, it's so worth saving the hassle during maintenance.
 
EnderXi said:
for the sake of £40 worth of bits you can save yourself a ton of time, fit a T piece, ball valve and plug in a low part of your loop then all you have to do is put your PC up high on a chair or table and stick a long length of tubing onto a barb screw that into the ball valve and open it.

Loop drains by mavity and you can do what you need with little hassel :)
Click to expand...


^^^^ This :)
 
I have built loads of loops and never put a drain port, but the way i have mounted the reservoir has made draining easy without a drain port (I do however posses superpowers that give the ability to manipulate mavity to my advantage). Here is my step by step guide (about how I drain my own loop).

I've made because there's currently two active threads on how people drain loops:

2013_12_09_23_41_54.jpg

Step one: attempt to grab reservoir. If you fail, repeat until successful. *may need to reboot for changes to take affect*

Step two: Using my power of mavity control, i tilt the reservoir at varying angles to control the flow of coolant. If this fails, step one didnt go too well and should be completed before going on and repeating step two.


I hope you liked it :D

BTW: i very stupidly did this JUST NOW while I have been writing on the forums and came far too close to putting that air bubble back into my loop lol
 
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Haha your post XD


Guys is this a T valve?

So im assuming when my loop is going back at its lowest point which should be coming out the bottom radiator towards the res again I think, I would have this connection which would lead off to a seperate hose in which I would have a stop valve? which I could open or close? or?

I know that the loop would go through this connection back to the res anyway and the thirrd connection on the top of this fitting would be where it would lead off to what ever drain method i use lol.

Just not sure on the fittings.

http://www.overclockers.co.uk/showproduct.php?prodid=WC-216-XS&groupid=962&catid=1529&subcat=1852
 
The way you want to do a drain loop will work perfectly well, provided its in the lower parts of teh loop. You will need an extra 3 fittings and a stop fittings (sold by OCuk, brand is bitspower).
 
A drain tap is the single greatest thing I put in my loop (other than it all being crystal link)

As it's all crystal Link just unplugging part and hoping mavity will take it toll is a challenge to say the least.

I was using Bitspower fittings, and just added one of the Q blocks coming off the pump (seen here:)
 
If using a valve you will actually need to an extra 4 barb/compo fittings to be precise, 3 for the T fitting and one for the female thread on the valve. Don't know of any valves which come with a barb on them by default. Would be cheaper to just use a bung.

Personally I don't like drain lines, they spoil the look of a loop. I drain out of the bleed screw in my rad, with a convenient hole drilled in the bottom of the case. Prior to this I considered siphoning out of the res.
 
Bubo said:
If using a valve you will actually need to an extra 4 barb/compo fittings to be precise, 3 for the T fitting and one for the female thread on the valve. Don't know of any valves which come with a barb on them by default. Would be cheaper to just use a bung.

Personally I don't like drain lines, they spoil the look of a loop. I drain out of the bleed screw in my rad, with a convenient hole drilled in the bottom of the case. Prior to this I considered siphoning out of the res.
Click to expand...

They don't spoil it if you plan the loop well and hide them properly. Though granted, this does require a case and component combination that allows you to do so.
 
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