drive safely

it's not just cheap tyres, but also proper pressures (at least occassionally checked).
About 5 years ago I bought a used MX5 from a dealer, picked it up on Nov 5 and was a fun drive home in the dark & wet with fireworks. It just felt skittish... a couple days later it was tipping it down, going around a 2 lane roundabout in rush-hour traffic to suddenly have the rear drifting out - was a decent brown-trouser moment. Decided to check the tyres and they were all decent make and tread - but all 12-15psi over the recommended. For some surprise, it was dramatically safer as soon as I reset the pressure.

I had an MX-5 for 6 months before I spun it on a very wet roundabout. They can be quite snappy for a sports car aimed at the masses. This was before they started fitting them all with traction control though.

Also saw a guy spin one on roundabout on the way to work not long ago :D
 
I'm one of those people that checks my tyres at least once a month, I'm forever cleaning my windscreen and wipers.
Anything I can do to aid visibility when the weather is rubbish.
The amount of people that just don't do basic stuff with their cars is scary.

Tyre pressures I check once a week. Even on my previous car which had TPMS.

I avoid petrol station air-lines like the plague though after my discovery.

Went to one of those with the auto-cut off at the user set pressure. Did all four tyres as I was increasing pressures due to loading the car full.

Checked my pressures the week after and found that they were 12-15 psi HIGHER than I'd set on the airline. Lowered them immediately but went to the airline to check. Set it at 36 (manufacturer specified) and let it do it's thing.

Checked with my trusty pressure gauge & 49psi.

With my windscreen, well all my windows are washed weekly as a minimum. Front/rear windows & wing mirrors get washed & then treated with RainX. Side windows get washed with RainX glass cleaner. Headlights also get RainX glass cleaner.

Also washer bottle is never just water.

And you're right. I know people that have been driving for a few years and never lifted the bonnet.
 
Have periodically checked the air-line versus the PCL 'digital' guage I use
... have had some leaky valves in the past so usually only check pressure if there is an air source available


Obliged to drive unsafely today ...
usually don't drive on the A14 ... this is like one of those manufacturer test roads 1mile = 20miles of regular wear and tear. (dog years)

The delinquent Cambridge 'High'ways authority sent me on a diversion onto it, no signed notice that A10 roundabout was under repair,
just a fait accompli with no possibility of U turn ... not sure if I had waze do this have access to HA's database of repairs ... would be a big download.
 
Have periodically checked the air-line versus the PCL 'digital' guage I use
... have had some leaky valves in the past so usually only check pressure if there is an air source available


Obliged to drive unsafely today ...
usually don't drive on the A14 ... this is like one of those manufacturer test roads 1mile = 20miles of regular wear and tear. (dog years)

The delinquent Cambridge 'High'ways authority sent me on a diversion onto it, no signed notice that A10 roundabout was under repair,
just a fait accompli with no possibility of U turn ... not sure if I had waze do this have access to HA's database of repairs ... would be a big download.
A14 aka deathtrap.
Roundabout works at Histon junction and temporary traffic lights affecting the A10 junction. Someone under the influence taking such decisions.
 
So you should keep the tyres with least grip/water clearance on the wheels that need it the most in a FF config car?
Grip comes from the rubber compound and it’s contact with the road, tread depth determines how effective the Tyre is at clearing water.
By putting new tyres on the rear and the rears on the front your getting the most out of your tyres by not having to scrap your rears with 6mm because it failed mot due to excessive cracking. Tyres have a 6 year life before the rubber starts decaying
 
Grip comes from the rubber compound and it’s contact with the road, tread depth determines how effective the Tyre is at clearing water.
By putting new tyres on the rear and the rears on the front your getting the most out of your tyres by not having to scrap your rears with 6mm because it failed mot due to excessive cracking. Tyres have a 6 year life before the rubber starts decaying

I don't think I've ever had the same tyres on my car for more than 3 years.
 
I don't think I've ever had the same tyres on my car for more than 3 years.
I've borrowed my mum and dads old a class a few times and i had the tyres changed on it because even though they had plenty of tread they were cracked and i think about 10 years old (they are both retired so not much driving).
 
cracks are visible ... when you see the disrespect people have kirbing younger tyres, reversing in or head first into parking slots, I'd want to retire some of those too.
not to mention the potholes they drive through ( a14 ) damage is probably f(v^n); smaller sidewalls, must exacerbate the issue with tighter angles
 
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