Dual BIOS update

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I have a Gigabyte Aorus X570 Master which has dual BIOS, neither of which is the latest version. It seems to me that for safety I should update one at a time so that if something goes wrong I can flip the switch and boot into the unchanged BIOS. However the Gigabyte manual just give instructions on BIOS update without mention of the fact that there are two. Can anyone point me to where the process is properly explained?
 
On my X570 Aorus Pro, it asks you if you want to update the secondary bios before you confirm to start the update.

I've always left the secondary alone.
 
I have only just built the system and haven't installed Windows yet. Is the choice to only update the main BIOS given in Q-Flash too?


Yes there is a check box in Qflash in the bios that will ask you if you want to update the backup bios too, I had to flash the bios on my board before it would even power up, my CPU wasnt supported so I just used the QFlash Plus USB port, dead easy to do, stuck the bios file on a USB stick, renamed it, plugged it into the correct USB port on the back and pressed a button, then walk away, just leave it alone, when it had finished the system just booted itself to the bios.

Never use the @BIOS utility within Windows, not only is it a load of rubbish, but there are too many things that can go wrong, you system could crash during flashing, too many different processes running in the background that could interfere with the flash, so many people have killed there systems using windows bios flashing tools.
 
Thanks @Jamin280672 - I shall try that. I also thought I'd need to flash the BIOS to support my 5900X. Having just completed the plumbing for my loop I wanted to do a quick test to make sure that it was all working - especially the RTX 3090 which I most definitely got scalped on - the mobo power button was red but nothing happened when I pressed it. Searching the forums led me to try the CMOS battery solution - which wasn't - and then I saw the thing about CPU support. I had noticed that the box my mobo came in just stated support for AMD 3000 series CPUs. But before doing that I checked my connectors and decided to connect the 2nd 8-pin power connector - which was the solution.
 
Thanks @Jamin280672 - I shall try that. I also thought I'd need to flash the BIOS to support my 5900X. Having just completed the plumbing for my loop I wanted to do a quick test to make sure that it was all working - especially the RTX 3090 which I most definitely got scalped on - the mobo power button was red but nothing happened when I pressed it. Searching the forums led me to try the CMOS battery solution - which wasn't - and then I saw the thing about CPU support. I had noticed that the box my mobo came in just stated support for AMD 3000 series CPUs. But before doing that I checked my connectors and decided to connect the 2nd 8-pin power connector - which was the solution.

Strange, im running on just 1 x 8pin EPS connector.
 
Do you know which one you used? I started with the one labelled ATX_12V which is on the right. Rather than swap it to ATX_12V1 on the left, I just plugged in both connectors. It would be good to confirm that if only one connector is used it must be ATX_12V1 on the left.
 
Do you know which one you used? I started with the one labelled ATX_12V which is on the right. Rather than swap it to ATX_12V1 on the left, I just plugged in both connectors. It would be good to confirm that if only one connector is used it must be ATX_12V1 on the left.

Im using an SFX-L PSU 800w so it only came with 1 x 8pin EPS, I have it in the left connector.

Pretty sure each connector can support upto 250w, they only really say you have to use both in extreme overclocking like LN2.
 
Im using an SFX-L PSU 800w so it only came with 1 x 8pin EPS, I have it in the left connector.

Pretty sure each connector can support upto 250w, they only really say you have to use both in extreme overclocking like LN2.
You are correct, the second 8 pin CPU socket on the motherboard is not required for 99.9% of people and is mostly there for marketing purposes.
 
Yes there is a check box in Qflash in the bios that will ask you if you want to update the backup bios too, I had to flash the bios on my board before it would even power up, my CPU wasnt supported so I just used the QFlash Plus USB port, dead easy to do, stuck the bios file on a USB stick, renamed it, plugged it into the correct USB port on the back and pressed a button, then walk away, just leave it alone, when it had finished the system just booted itself to the bios.

Never use the @BIOS utility within Windows, not only is it a load of rubbish, but there are too many things that can go wrong, you system could crash during flashing, too many different processes running in the background that could interfere with the flash, so many people have killed there systems using windows bios flashing tools.

It is truly a frightening thought of doing it in Windows, a program hangs and somehow causes the BIOS program to hang. You know the freaky things Windows can sometimes create.
 
I updated the Main BIOS to F33 with QFlash and it took about 3.5 mins. Backup BIOS remains as F32. I have no experience with @BIOS but I think I stick with QFlash going forwards.

Although I wasn't bothered about the dual BIOS when I chose the Master it is good to have the peace of mind in case the flashing goes wrong. But something went wrong with the design for the status LEDs. The switches are at the top right of the mobo but the status LEDs are at the back. Not only does this make them hard to see under normal circumstances, but in my case because I have the EK CPU/VRM waterblock they are completely hidden and I need to use an inspection mirror!
 
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