Electrical good practice guides

Ah...I didn't see that it was sealed...and been quoted twice...i'm blind.

Just have to wait and see what e-on say about the new service head and isolator then, and how much of a chunk they will take out of your pocket haha
 
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Depending how old your meter is your supplier might be interested in replacing it (it's free) and if they do just request one with a built in isolator, fuse pulling problem solved.
 
Doh, It is a 60A fuse and not a 90A that I said before, I will look to get this changed for an higher rated fuse and get an isolator fitted. The CU is rated at 100A

Here is a couple of pictures

IMG_20140520_100607.jpg


IMG_20140520_100405.jpg


Its not the worst meter i've seen but there looks like some rag wrapped around end of the service cable with the earth connected to it, what do you think to it ?
 
Unlikely they'll uprate the fuse I would have thought, the cable probably isn't sized for it. The cable will probably be single core+armoured sheath. Neutral and earth will be bonded, and the earth tail breaking out of the cloth will be connected to the armour. Earth looks a bit skinny for my liking as well, but DNO's seem to operate to their own rule book when it comes to cable sizing.
 
Lucy Oxford? As in the people who own half of Jericho? I didn't know they made service heads...

Looks like a nice old one - similar to mine. The meter must be newer than approx. 2005 as when they fitted it the put new little tails from the service head to the meter in the new colours, but seems like they reused the old tails from meter to CU hence they are still old colours. New meter so probably wont get a free visit to replace and add the isolator on that basis, but still worth asking.

Is that earth strip actually connected to the cable (looks like it is)? Cos there seems to be a lead too? Mine had just a lead to a terminal block. I wouldn't worry about, or even fiddle with that cloth tape or whatever it is. At the end of the day as long as you get a healthy low Ze it's OK. Mine looked older and tattier and was technically undersized, but tested out fine.

You don't seem to have enough spare connections to add main equipotential bonding from the incoming gas and water services if required though (unless you double up or use that spare connection to go to another small terminal which can take the main bonds). Maybe you'd get a visit to also fit an isolator to improve that?
 
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Why do you want a higher rated fuse?
Unless you're planning on adding a high Kw electric shower or the likes 60a should suffice, especially if there's been no issue with it in the past.
 
I was thinking of having an higher rated fuse because of the appliances which were wanting, double electric oven, Induction Hob, Shower ect.
The last thing I want is the fuse to blow with cooking xmas dinner when I have all the family around

Whether or not its possible to have an higher rated fuse for our supply, who knows but that will dictate what appliances we can get. If 60A was sufficient then why would houses be fitted with 100A today, besides bigger always sounds better :D

Surely the switch in the CU as well should be lower than the service fuse ?
 
Seriously I doubt you need to worry about popping your fuse. Fuses don't blow at 0.0001 A above their rating. A 60A BS1361 fuse will take 120A for about 20 minutes looking at the curves! The loads you've described would never take it out, and would be very unlikely to all be on at full current anyway, even if you are using all the appliances.

A 100A rated main switch in a CU is fine with a lower rated service fuse. That's the way you want it - if the CU switch was rated lower than the service fuse, what would protect the switch from melting if overloaded?
 
Regarding the main switch I think you may be getting confused thinking it's an overcurrent protection device, it's not.
100a is what it can safely handle running through it, like 10a light switches etc.
As mentioned above, just forget about the main fuse unless you start popping it.
 
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