Ender 3 Linear rail options?

Scougar

Scougar

Scougar

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(Note: I have an Ender 3 V2, and I understand the Y-axis is different on the original Ender 3.)

So let's hear people's thoughts on linear rails and budget vs expensive.

I've seen stuff offered by GulfCoast, and I see things offered by Aliexpress, and then combinations of printed parts and rails. Also, there appear to be different styles. Single VS double, and top mount vs's side mount for example.

I'm more inclined to go middle ground myself, since the Ender 3 is budget, but if I'm adding something I may as well make it an improvement. I don't however know what the middle ground is for a purchase.
 
MS seem to offer a linear rail compatible part, but not the rails. (They also offer the exoslide compatible part.) Nice to have options.

I'm looking for opinions, and so far:

1) Chinese MGN12 stuff seems to be hit and miss. Likely have to disassemble, clean and re-grease with thinner grease. Looks like need more maintenance.
2) I can't see a mid-priced linear rail product ?
3) Exo-slides. Look bulky, and seem to ride on original rails. Kinda the same problems as wheels?
 
Dempsey22 said:
If you want a kit to just use and not have to faff about with stuff then have a look at the 3D fused linear rail kits.
Click to expand...

I looked. They appear to be the same chinese kits just looked over. Maybe even having the ball bearings replaced in advance. I am curious.

I like the look of the Y axis linear plate kit as it sits real low. I will need to email them as I want to use the gulf coast 3 point leveling system with it, and not 3D Fused 4 point, so need to check if it will be compatible.
 
Scougar said:
I looked. They appear to be the same chinese kits just looked over. Maybe even having the ball bearings replaced in advance. I am curious.

I like the look of the Y axis linear plate kit as it sits real low. I will need to email them as I want to use the gulf coast 3 point leveling system with it, and not 3D Fused 4 point, so need to check if it will be compatible.
Click to expand...

My Z axis linear rails are due tomorrow I'll let you know the quality of them and if I have to clean and lubricate them etc.
 
Scougar said:
Definitely interested in your findings. Curious how much noise increase there is in actual operation.
Click to expand...

I'd say there be no difference with noise on the Z Axis as it only moves a small distance at a time. Opened the rails there and no issues, seem very smooth and no catching etc. Wont really know how they perform until I get them fitted.
 
Dempsey22 said:
I'd say there be no difference with noise on the Z Axis as it only moves a small distance at a time. Opened the rails there and no issues, seem very smooth and no catching etc. Wont really know how they perform until I get them fitted.
Click to expand...

Very good point on the Z axis.

I'm looking a the 3DFused Y Axis Linear rail system. It lowers the whole bed. I do want a better bed surface, better heater, and 3 point levelling along with that though.
 
You know.. I could spend money on another printer with better spec's to start or....

... 3DFused Y Axis Linear rail kit ordered :D lol. $110 with the added bottle of oil.

I actually noticed my wheels were wearing away badly on the Y-axis, so I thought screw it... just buy it.
 
I'm very happy with the linear rails I got so I ordered 3 more to do X and Y axis. Got them for 40 delivered. I don't expect to see them till January so for now I might actually use the printer to print things :cry:
 
In my experience having built several machines using linear rails is to not cheap out. Get HiWin or don't bother.
The cheapo rails will need disassembly and reassembly before use and you will find that the ball-bearings themselves are very low quality. The last set I bought I ended up replacing all of the balls as some weren't even close to round.

Having said all of that, I'm not convinced that adding rails to a printer makes it in any way better. If you are building from the ground up then sure, use rails because it's the easiest way to get good motion control.
I had 3D printer that was based on the Prusa i3 design that was using 2040 extrusion and so was stiff. I started out with the usual 8mm rods and LM8UU bearings before changing to MGN12H rails. I noticed 0 difference in print quality.
 
Rilot said:
In my experience having built several machines using linear rails is to not cheap out. Get HiWin or don't bother.
The cheapo rails will need disassembly and reassembly before use and you will find that the ball-bearings themselves are very low quality. The last set I bought I ended up replacing all of the balls as some weren't even close to round.

Having said all of that, I'm not convinced that adding rails to a printer makes it in any way better. If you are building from the ground up then sure, use rails because it's the easiest way to get good motion control.
I had 3D printer that was based on the Prusa i3 design that was using 2040 extrusion and so was stiff. I started out with the usual 8mm rods and LM8UU bearings before changing to MGN12H rails. I noticed 0 difference in print quality.
Click to expand...

I went with cheap ones knowing the risk that they could need disassembly and cleaning etc. I even had replacement balls incase. They turned out be really good with no play in the carriage, smooth motion and rails were straight as could be.

Obviously they don't really make things better but I despise v wheels and lead screws. So I switched to a dual belted Z with linear rails. I'll do X and Y axis after Christmas when I'm adding mic6 bed and AC silicone heat bed.
 
Rilot said:
In my experience having built several machines using linear rails is to not cheap out. Get HiWin or don't bother.
The cheapo rails will need disassembly and reassembly before use and you will find that the ball-bearings themselves are very low quality. The last set I bought I ended up replacing all of the balls as some weren't even close to round.

Having said all of that, I'm not convinced that adding rails to a printer makes it in any way better. If you are building from the ground up then sure, use rails because it's the easiest way to get good motion control.
I had 3D printer that was based on the Prusa i3 design that was using 2040 extrusion and so was stiff. I started out with the usual 8mm rods and LM8UU bearings before changing to MGN12H rails. I noticed 0 difference in print quality.
Click to expand...

I watched a fair few videos on the cheap rails, and watched patiently whilst people swapped all the bearings out having washed, and regreased etc. In the end, I opted to go with a linear kit because I was seeing a lot of wear of the POM wheels on the Y-axis, so I could no longer trust if they were true. It's possible I had been running them too tight previously which may have caused it. As I only really print PETG at relatively low speeds 25 to 50, I don't think I'll get increased ringing issues as such, and for the sake of a little lube now and then, I think I'll gain consistent movement.

Very much looking forward to receiving the parts I need to do the dual belted Z upgrade like you Dempsey :)
 
Received my first linear rail from Amazon. Tolerance is good, no slop in any direction. Quality 'looks' good, although few scratches here and there. Even after swapping out the balls to 2.381 Silica ball bearings, I am still getting binding randomly. I took everything apart again and I can't see any area that would cause binding of the balls :(

Rail and channels look good (I even put on magnifying glasses lol). Flushed everything out.
 
Well... my linear rail parts arrived today.

1) 3DFused Linear rail kit FINALLY arrived after 5/6 weeks. https://3dfused.com/product/ender-3-v2-y-axis-linear-rail-kit/
2) Micro Swiss Linear rail plate also arrived (as I had the version for V-Wheels, I just needed to buy the rail plate): https://store.micro-swiss.com/produ...inear-rail-system?_pos=2&_sid=b1fecfb7a&_ss=r

All that is left is to get these all installed later, and if I'm happy, then consider ordering the Z axis linear rails as well.

EDIT:. I have to laugh at myself. Printer was working quite literally the best I have ever seen it print on multiple prints... So I choose to install new parts. Hopefully this works out OK lol.
 
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