Were you up early enough to see Ballistix post his kitchen in the living room photos? Mods removed it as he announced he was never posting again at the same time (leaving thread).![]()
Missed it

Were you up early enough to see Ballistix post his kitchen in the living room photos? Mods removed it as he announced he was never posting again at the same time (leaving thread).![]()
It looked okay then there was a close up of 2 MASSIVE RGB fan outlets - about 30x20cm. They legit looked like two hot plates side by sideMissed it![]()
That’s character, love my engineered floor in all it’s battered beauty! Laminate looks fake and doesn’t she the same.As soon as you see all the dents and scratches you know it’s real.
engineered for me, looks better, nicer to walk on barefoot and can be more easily repaired. also mine will be fitted in one room(other room i'm doing is concrete) as a structual floor straight onto the joists so the actual oak layer will be 5/6mm thick.
I asked our flooring installer and his comments were, you can do it but its not recommended. Much better to lay a sub-floor and lay on-top as you have to use hidden nailing if you fix directly to joists. You also get more transmission and flanking noise fixing to joists, whereas a sub-floor helps to de-couple the walking surface from the structural elements, reducing sound.is that legit?
is that legit?
I asked our flooring installer and his comments were, you can do it but its not recommended. Much better to lay a sub-floor and lay on-top as you have to use hidden nailing if you fix directly to joists. You also get more transmission and flanking noise fixing to joists, whereas a sub-floor helps to de-couple the walking surface from the structural elements, reducing sound.
We went for one of these as it's their thickest laminate at 12mm. The fitter remarked on how nice it is when laying it as it stands out from the cheap stuff in the way it clips together and the thickness. Combine with a decent underlay that isn't too squishy, something like the following and I doubt anyone will tell the difference in small rooms. Also, if you can remove your skirting boards so it runs underneath rather than using scotia beading it will also add to the appearance being professional rather than a cheap laminate alternative. You need to calculate how thick an underlay you require after subtracting the thickness of the laminate from the depth you currently have on adjacent floors so you don't end up with odd levels leading in to those rooms. Included a couple that I had shortlisted when we did ours. You'll need a chair matt whatever flooring you choose otherwise the wheels will scratch. The LVT isn't something I'd consider with pets as our Karndean has marks and scratches just from humans using the room.
https://www.ukflooringdirect.co.uk/laminate-flooring?custitem_thickness=12mm&page=1
https://www.screwfix.com/p/vitrex-fan-fold-underlay-board-9-6m/9035h
https://www.screwfix.com/p/diall-aquastop-underlay-5m/2471r
If you want ultimate robustness it's also worth considering ceramic as they do plank shaped tiles these days that I would say are the least likely to succumb to pet scratches. Ceramic would also be the most robust in case of any liquid spillages or pee mishaps, although equal I'd say with LVT on this.
I have a sample of their 12mm in front of me at the moment, much better quality than previous laminates I've used.
No skirting on at the moment so nice and simple.