EV general discussion

You say that, my car has pin to drive and I don’t use it. I had it in for a short period and it is 100% annoying.

The cars insured, it’s not actually mine and the lease company doesn’t require you use it so I don’t.

I’ve not seen any documented cases of a Model 3 or Y being stolen in this way yet anyway, it’s keyless entry is a bit different to most other cars.
 
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1st rule of .... Have to do it right

An attack against Tesla Model 3
UWB comes as the game changer and next major step in the evolution of vehicle entry systems. This raises the question: How effective is UWB against current radio hacks? A recent report on the latest Tesla Model 3’s use of UWB helps give an idea.

Citing findings by researchers at GoGoByte, the report states that although the Tesla Model 3 supports UWB, it is not currently using the technology effectively for distance checks that could prevent relay attacks. This is because Tesla’s keyless entry systems primarily still use Bluetooth to unlock the car and control the immobilizer. Consequently, relay attacks remain successful over Bluetooth, as with earlier models.
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To address this issue, Tesla vehicle owners are advised to take advantage of a feature called “PIN-to-drive,” which acts as a form of multifactor authentication (MFA). This feature requires the driver to enter a four-digit PIN code before the car can be started



... and I was complaining about 2fa on OC.
 
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Special indeed. It’s an old article, it’s been patched within a matter of days via OTA update…

The irony is the vast majority of Tesla cars on the road don’t actually support UWB and they are still one of the least stolen cars on the market. You never hear of cars being stolen via relay attacks from owners.

While it’s possible to relay attack a Tesla in the way highlighted, the important point is the crims are not exploiting it and Tesla are keeping up with over the air software updates.

There is also a simple countermeasure you can deploy, modern phones automate the turning on and off of Bluetooth on a schedule. There is nothing to relay if Bluetooth is off. Likewise you can do in 2 drive but as a move you are protecting yourself against something not being actively exploited.
 
Imagine quoting yourself as a credible link… please slow it down. It’s chunder word soup that’s not relevant. Zero value add from Jpaul.
 
after all we've discussed uwb before (cyclic forum, as you've remarked) but that's supposed to be the security solution- good if it has been fixed on teslas;
( my £900 model 3 insurance quote needs some explanation - the interconnectdness of things, musks a fan of douglas adams )

e: there was a link in my tesla post which maybe you didn't see the worldwide benevolant hackers meeting.
 
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Imagine quoting yourself as a credible link… please slow it down. It’s chunder word soup that’s not relevant. Zero value add from Jpaul.
Imagine following someone round the forum and getting upset about it. If he bothers you so much stick him on ignore and do us all a favour
 
Been looking at some of the Puma-E reviews, and there seems to be a bit of mixed bag in terms of likes/dislikes. I'm not sure how the 43kWh useable pack will fair in the winter, but at least it has pre-heating at ~100kW charging up to 80% if you need to use a charger on a longer trip, 10kWh buffer according to the specs as well, being NMC I'd think that you won't see any GOM degradation numbers until year 5-6 or beyond.

Shame they didn't just release this 3-4 years ago.

 
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Been looking at some of the Puma-E reviews, and there seems to be a bit of mixed bag in terms of likes/dislikes. I'm not sure how the 43kWh useable pack will fair in the winter, but at least it has pre-heating at ~100kW charging up to 80% if you need to use a charger on a longer trip, 10kWh buffer according to the specs as well, being NMC I'd think that you won't see any GOM degradation numbers until year 5-6 or beyond.

Shame they didn't just release this 3-4 years ago.


I was curious about the quoted 53kwh battery installed when it first got announced and whilst there has yet to be any clarification, the general consenus is that it is an error and the battery is physically 43.6.

Frustratingly Ford also ditched a large number of dealerships recently, includng one 5 minutes up the road so they are no longer allowed to sell/test drive new cars, I was going to pop up and check one out, but can't do that any longer.
 
Imagine following someone round the forum and getting upset about it. If he bothers you so much stick him on ignore and do us all a favour
Thanks. Just popped you on ignore.

Edit seems you can’t, that seems ironic telling people how to use features of the forum that aren’t actually available to all?

The idea I “follow him around” give yourself a break.
 
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I was curious about the quoted 53kwh battery installed when it first got announced and whilst there has yet to be any clarification, the general consenus is that it is an error and the battery is physically 43.6.

Frustratingly Ford also ditched a large number of dealerships recently, includng one 5 minutes up the road so they are no longer allowed to sell/test drive new cars, I was going to pop up and check one out, but can't do that any longer.


I mentioned it in the Capri thread, they’ll need to be knocking these Puma’s out at a substantial discount for them to make any sense to anyone.

It’s a hard sell when you can get something with a decent range for similar money and is not really any worse of a car than Ford currently build.

I can see these depreciating hard given it’s basically got compliance car specs. They might make a decent cheap second car in 3-4 years.

You’d have thought they’d have learnt from those that have come before which such range compromised vehicles like Mazda and Honda.
 
Because in this day and age it's too much effort to press a button to lock and unlock your car which is what's caused the issue in the first place.

Having to tap in a 4 digit PIN to drive... Think of the horror!
(apologies if I am mistaken) however I thought most cars with keyless entry could have it disabled and you could go old school and use a button to unlock the car like in the old days .

I haven't bothered doing it on mine , even though I should as I always use the button out of habit, but that could be an option if people are genuinely worried.

can't have it both ways I guess. if you are worried then turn it off but at that point people can't then complain because they are too lazy to press a button ;)
 
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I was curious about the quoted 53kwh battery installed when it first got announced and whilst there has yet to be any clarification, the general consenus is that it is an error and the battery is physically 43.6.

Frustratingly Ford also ditched a large number of dealerships recently, includng one 5 minutes up the road so they are no longer allowed to sell/test drive new cars, I was going to pop up and check one out, but can't do that any longer.
Usable, according to the ford website, battery capacity is 43kWh, so the battery could be larger?
 
Usable, according to the ford website, battery capacity is 43kWh, so the battery could be larger?
I've just watched a video on youtube and they have confirmed with Ford engineers during the road tests in Spain that it does have a 53kWh battery installed with 43kWh usable, and apparently it was to maintain a flatter/faster charging curve, up to 100kw iirc.
 
I've just watched a video on youtube and they have confirmed with Ford engineers during the road tests in Spain that it does have a 53kWh battery installed with 43kWh usable, and apparently it was to maintain a flatter/faster charging curve, up to 100kw iirc.

I think I'd already said this in my comment that it was 53kWh with 43kWh useable, as per the various reviews I'd read/watched. The charging curve isn't very flat given the 10kWh buffer, it does 100kW for 2% of the pack, and by the time it hits 70% it's down at ~60kW, as I said I think they've one it as it stops the car show ranging degradation as quickly. It's not like it takes a long time to fill a 43kWh useable battery anyhow, but 10-80% still takes 21 minutes to put in 30.5kWh for the Puma, it's so far out of date already vs something like an EV3 at a similar price, which puts 54.6kWh in the same 21 mins
 
I think I'd already said this in my comment that it was 53kWh with 43kWh useable, as per the various reviews I'd read/watched. The charging curve isn't very flat given the 10kWh buffer, it does 100kW for 2% of the pack, and by the time it hits 70% it's down at ~60kW, as I said I think they've one it as it stops the car show ranging degradation as quickly. It's not like it takes a long time to fill a 43kWh useable battery anyhow, but 10-80% still takes 21 minutes to put in 30.5kWh for the Puma, it's so far out of date already vs something like an EV3 at a similar price, which puts 54.6kWh in the same 21 mins
Smaller batteries are always going to charge slower as less current collectors. A battery pack is literally loads of modules so if each one can take 10kW then obviously bigger packs is going to get higher rates. The ‘buffer’ is absolutely irrelevant

For me and most EV owners peak charging speed is largely irrelevant as I hardly use it. Especially at 80p/kwh. Why there is such a focus I don’t know. Surely your Niro is no better but you seem to have no issues with it ?

The puma is about 46kWh gross the 53 is some typo that keeps getting repeated
 
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