****EVH's house building thread****

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Bit random not strictly on topic but i got an artex ceiling i need redoing, preferably pulled down and started again and the walls made true.

do i need to find a plasterer or should i look for a general builder? basically want to gut the kitchen - square it off and start again. (floor might need work too actually sigh)
 
Efour2 said:
Bit random not strictly on topic but i got an artex ceiling i need redoing, preferably pulled down and started again and the walls made true.

do i need to find a plasterer or should i look for a general builder? basically want to gut the kitchen - square it off and start again. (floor might need work too actually sigh)
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If you want a top notch job then hire a plasterer for plastering not a builder.
If you want plastering and general building work doing together then a builder will be your best bet,the builder might get a sub contractor for the plastering and then do the general building work himself.

A builder will most likely try and do it himself(Plastering) and you may not get a brillaint job then again you might be lucky and have a builder that can do plastering ok.
I would do the plastering for you but im miles away im afraid:)
 
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Efour2 said:
Bit random not strictly on topic but i got an artex ceiling i need redoing, preferably pulled down and started again and the walls made true.

do i need to find a plasterer or should i look for a general builder? basically want to gut the kitchen - square it off and start again. (floor might need work too actually sigh)
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If you want a proper proper job get a builder who is experienced in asbestos handling as artex is a common asbestos product and shouldn't be removed in a manner that would create large amounts of dust.
 
Kingy said:
I'm confused, if all the cabling is CAT6, and the 'baluns' are essentially a converter, why would you want a 50M HDMI converter?
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I don't have a clue how they work!

What I do know is that I've had quite a few cheapo ones fail, but more expensive ones have been fine.
Regarding the distance, I guess it's the power or something? Whatever it is, the 50m ones are more expensive than a 35m one, so if you don't need the extra distance you can just buy a decent quality 35m one.
 
peter_hutson said:
Looks nice. It's interesting how building methods differ througout the country. I've just completed a build myself in Scotland, it's almost impossible where I am to find someone that want to build in block. Everything seems to be timber frame kits now. While in England the opposite seems to be true.
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It depends my Dads a Timber framer, usually all the big companies will use timber frames.
 
/subscribe :)
You must be due for an update soon!

I moved into a new build house a year ago.. 0 network, aerial or coax cables around the house. There's one phone cable that goes to the top floor (it's a 3 storey house) but otherwise diddly squat. I'm considering trying to retrofit some ethernet cabling to get HDMI and network signal around the place - is cat6 strictly neccesary for that? Also what's the best way to get cables around my house without making too much mess?
 
Right guys, bit of an update..

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Basically, what you can see here is the insulation boards being laid before the underfloor heating pipes go down. Was pretty straight forward, if not fiddly around the door openings. One tip, use a hoover to get up all the dust before you try and tape the joints.
 
JBuk said:
Did you lay the piping yourself?
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I helped. My brother is a plumber, so he's the one connecting it up and I just did the monkey work on the end of the coil. We had a CAD drawing from the supplier, as to where to lay the pipes for all the zones, so it wasn't that hard.

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To explain a bit.. the insulation boards go down, then you tape them down with duct tape and cover the boards with polythene (to protect them from the acid in the screed). Once that is done the track is laid and the pipes are clipped in to the tracks, with anchors/staples pinning the pipe down between tracks.

The main picture shows the manifold where the 3 zones terminate. Kitchen (1), Hallway, toilet and utility (2) and Living room (3).

There is no piping laid under where the kitchen cupboards are going because it can cause them to "sweat".
 
I'm in the middle of knocking out a chimney and wall to open up the kitchen and dining room into a 9x3.6 metre room so underfloor heating is something i'm seriously considering for comfort and efficiency

the problem I have is that 1/4 of the room has a concrete floor and the rest is suspended

do you mind if I ask how much the kit cost?
 
No idea how much it cost, I don't have access to my spreadsheet at the moment.

Just before the screed goes down, you need to do 1 final prep stage. To be honest I had no idea there was so much work involved, but it's best to do it right. Essentially, you want to put insulation against the walls so the heat from the flooring isn't lost to the walls when the heating is on.

At first it doesn't sound so bad, but when you realise that every inch of every room has to be water tight, so the screed doesn't bridge the gap to the outer walls/sub floor then it gets tiresome taping the insulation down. "If in doubt, tape it!" was the slogan :(

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The guys who supplied the barrier tape and poured the screed were excellent. They came around the day before and made sure everything was in good order before starting. In fact they were showing me photos of their recent work on a digital camera.

They've just done the garages for Jeff Beck's motors, which I thought was pretty awesome.
 
platypus said:
Haven't you finished this yet :p?
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No :p. Had to wait a week for the screed to dry, hence the lack of pictures recently.

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These pictures aren't the best because the light was fading fast when I took them, but you can see.. WE HAVE TEH FLOORZ.

Also looks much smoother in real-life, than these pictures make out. It's a self-levelling screed :)
 
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