I'm pretty much set on buying myself an Evo VIII at the end of the year. I really want the MR version, so I've been looking around at the MR 320.
Good because they are the best of the bunch
Is it worth spending more and getting the 340/360?
If you are talking from an MR 300 - Not really. It's mainly a panel filter, exhaust and a remap - all which you can do yourself if you want. The 340 did get some gorgeous half leather seats as an option though which are quite desirable.
Apart from output, is there any significant difference between the MR 320 and 340/360 other models that is worth spending more money on buying and undoubtedly insuring?
Not really but the differences between models including the MR's is below for your perusal.
Evo VIII (Chasis number CT9A 020 XXXX for JDM/FQ models)
UK Models
Evo VIII 260
• 2 cats (1 in down pipe, 1 in "normal" position)
• 5 speed gear box
• 9.8T housing (some with single flapper wastegate)
• Slightly modified Evo VII ECU (four plug)
• Euro Style Recaro interior c/w rear adjustable headrests - Leather / Suede option at cost
• Non-folding electric wing mirrors
• 8 MR pistons & head gasket
• No rear wash jet/wiper
• Small spoiler with brake light incorporated
• No SAS
• UK style Number Plates
• Integrated Fog lamp in rear light cluster
• Single Din dash
• Kenwood 6 speaker stereo system
• Large Battery
• Bridgestone Potenza tyres
• Non HID Headlights
• 3x3 ISOfixPoint Rear Seat Belts
• 17 digit chassis number on a plate riveted to the dash
Evo VIII FQ 300 – as 260 plus:
• Upgraded blue/black interior inc. narrower seats
• HKS Superdrager catback with HKS downpipe exhaust
• 3 Plug ECU
• Secondary Air System (SAS)
• More aggressive cams
• Folding electric mirrors
• Double Din stereo slot
• Climate Control
• Fog light in bumper
• Japanese-style front number plate holder
• Only one catalytic converter
• HKS Hardpipe kit
• HKS panel filter
• 6 speed gear box
• Yokohama Advan A046 tyres
• Rear brake light in windscreen
• Larger carbon spoiler (body colour paint on outer uprights)
Evo VIII FQ 330 – As VIII FQ 300 plus:
•upgraded black alcantara/leather interior
•piggy back ecu
•restrictor in pipe connected to wastegate actuator
•smartnav
Import models
Evo VIII GSR – As UK VIII FQ 300 less:
• HKS Superdrager exhaust
• Foglight in bumper
• FQ Badges
• HKS Hardpipe kit
Evo VIII RS – As Evo VIII GSR plus:
• 5 speed box
• Stronger rear diff (non S-AYC)
less:
• Air Con
• Alloy wheels
• Recaro seats
• Electric windows
GSR deleted items available as optional extras.
Evo VIII MR (Chasis number CT9A 030 XXXX)
UK Models
Evo VIII MR FQ 300 – As VIII FQ 300 plus:
•10.5T (single flap) housing
•upgraded cams
•MR seats & door cards
•carbon effect dash inserts
•dark brushed steel steering wheel
•Bilstein shock absorbers
•aluminium used in roof & side door beams
•Team Dynamic (gunmetal) alloys
•black backing to front & rear lights
•13 row oil cooler
•twin boost solonoid
•optimisation and reinforcement of the oil channels in the pistons
•uprated 5-ply head gasket
•added tension in piston rings, v shaped groove in second land of pistons
•reduced weight S-AYC diff (alu casing), higher strength hypoid gears, operates even when ABS is activated.
Does not have:
•HKS Superdrager exhaust
Available in gunmetal grey, not available in black, yellow or blue.
Evo VIII MR FQ 320 – As VIII MR FQ 300 plus:
• HKS Superdrager exhaust
• HKS panel filter
• HKS hardpipe kit
Evo VIII MR FQ 340 – As VIII MR FQ 320, plus:
• Piggy back ECU
• Black leather/alcantara interior
• Optional smartnav
Evo VIII MR FQ 400 – As VIII MR FQ 320, plus:
• Forged engine
• Limited edition of 100 Custom built Garrett GT Dual Ball bearing turbocharger
• Owen Developments custom manufactured cast s/s
exhaust manifold & elbow
• Omega forged pistons
• HKS forged con rods
• HKS 680cc injectors
• Zytec ITP116 high pressure fuel pump
• HKS 1.6mm steel head gasket
• Motec M800 OEM ECU
• HKS iridium spark plugs
• Jan Speed High Flow Sports Cat
• Alcon 240mm high clamp mode, HD
clutch with Cera-metallic 6 paddle sprung centered drive
plate
• HKS High Strength Head & Big End Bolts
• Alcon Mono6 Brake Kit with Monobloc 6 pot road caliper &
343mm curved vein disc, aluminium bell,
Ferodo DS2500 pads
• Ralliart carbon effect, electric Aero Mirrors
• Carbon fibre front lip
• Carbon fibre rear vortex generator
• PIAA High Performance light & wiper upgrade
• Half leather and FQ400 Logo in Seats optional extra
• Gloss black Team Dynamics lightweight alloy wheels
Import models
Evo VIII MR – As Evo VIII GSR plus:
• 10.5T (single flap) housing
• Upgraded intake cam
• Modified pistons
• MR interior
• Bilstein shock absorbers
• Aluminium roof
• BBS alloys
• Black backing to front & rear lights
• Available in gunmetal grey, not available in black, yellow or blue.
Evo VIII MR RS (5 speed) – As Evo VIII MR plus:
• 5 speed box (6 speed optional)
• Stronger rear diff (non S-AYC)
• Silver backed lights
less:
• Uprated intake cam
• 10.5T hotside
• 5 ply headgasket
• Modified pistons
• Air Con
• Alloy wheels
• Recaro seats
• Electric windows
GSR deleted items available as optional extras.
It'll be by far the most powerful car I've owned, that being a 245 bhp DC5, so I think the 320 would be ample for me.
You'll soon want more
Final question, how difficult is it to keep the red looking red? I know Japanese paint has a habbit of turning 'pink' if not maintained propely. Is this true of Evo's? I must admit I love the look of the red car with dark wheels/spoiler, with the gunmetal grey being my second choice followed by silver.
I know what you mean about red cars fading but I don't recall seeing any problems with the Palma red that the Evo's come in. There may be exceptions and remember people tend to look after these better than say an old EG Civic.
Palma red always looks best clean and shiny. Use a decent wax with decent UV protection and you should be fine.
Both the gunmetal and the palma red are good choices as they don't look terribly worse as they accumulate dirt. Don't get a silver one as they look naff, more difficult to paint match, are common (which you don't want an Evo to be). They are the cheapest though.
For what it's worth when I viewed them initially;
* Watch out for the AYC pump going which seems very common
* The carbon fibre lacquer on the spoiler is very prone to flaking and need to be recoated
* Look for rust where the spoiler meets the boot
* Look for rust around doors - the paint really is terrible
Essentially true although I never heard of any great problems with paint except for the spoilers flaking. Not doubting you though. Remember these cars are getting older now.
I was shocked to see such poor build quality on these cars, so I dare say red is a no-no. I owned a EP3 Type-R in Milano Red which I believe you did also, mine went pink in owning it a year and it was detailed regualrly by a professional friend of mine and also washed/waxed by me weekly... so what I'm saying is, dont hold hope for the Evo staying red.
See my post above, I know what you mean about the reds but I don't think the problem is as prevalent on the Evo's particularly as Palma red is a relatively rare colour.
EDIT: Just on the AYC pump thing, look in to that specifically, as theres forum posts on MLR quoting £2074+vat+fitting from dealers. I'm sure it can be had cheaper, but ouch. Actually makes me want to stick with the Impreza search now... lol
Only a dunce would get the AYC done at a main dealer. Generally as soon as you buy an Evo, it should never set foot in a Mitsu dealership again unless you need parts. There are far better people suited to taking care of them.
I used to live 2 minutes away from what was regarded as the best Mitsubishi Dealership in the country (Brighton Mitsubishi) and with all of my dealings with them, I couldn't give them any better than an average review at best. Had too many adverse (whilst not totally negative) dealings with them over the years.
You should be able to get an AYC pump replaced for less than a grand including labour and a second hand pump, but there are even DIY kits for them that you can get from the states now - however it's not a small task. A little research will show you how to extend the life of the pump dramatically with little effort. I'm still running an original 11 year old pump on mine and it is working fine (touch wood).
I had an 8 MR 320 from new, I tested the 340 first and found the 320 more user friendly as a daily driver. There wasn't much performance in it for the extra cost, at least that's how I saw it. I also found the 340 more of a pig to drive in town, it would stall quite a bit in heavy stop-start traffic.
That is surprising as there isn't really any differences between the models that would account for it. Perhaps the 340 had a paddle or twin plate clutch in it that a previous owner put in it.
Oh and it sounded like a hair dryer
Won't lie, they don't sound particularly good. The idle on mine is pleasantly lumpy, but the note will never give me the shivers that the Dodge Challenger I drove last week did.
Man points awarded.
Nothing wrong with the 7!