Associate
- Joined
- 18 Oct 2002
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- 1,519
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- Liverpool - UK.
Fair do's, just sounds like treacle!
Expensive oils?
- Thread starter -Neil-
- Start date
Page 127 of the manual 
10w-40 is the recommended grade for the UK, my dealers by the barrel stuff is a Castrol 10w-40 semi-synth which will be absolutely fine for normal road use. That said the extra £20 for running a proper fully synth every 6000/9000 miles is insignificant and you have the satisfaction of knowing you're getting better from-cold performance with a 0w-40 or a 5w-40 and if you go for a serious extended blat or a track session that the oil won't shear and lose it's viscosity
As for the brakes I'd have gone for a set of performance pads rather than hoses, I don't think they'll do much with the stock brakes being so good anyway. I've got some EBC redstuffs on the front at the moment and they're great when warmed up (and fine when cold) but the dust has turned my wheels black so I think I'll try DS2500's next time! The other interesting brake upgrades are two-pot legend calipers for increased feel and the interesting brake-stopper thing that stops the bulkhead flexing which allows you to stand on the pedal harder
Oh and if you are in the mood for more bling get the upper rear strut brace if you don't have one already
PS Make sure that honda give you the remainder of your oil back, it's handy for top ups!
10w-40 is the recommended grade for the UK, my dealers by the barrel stuff is a Castrol 10w-40 semi-synth which will be absolutely fine for normal road use. That said the extra £20 for running a proper fully synth every 6000/9000 miles is insignificant and you have the satisfaction of knowing you're getting better from-cold performance with a 0w-40 or a 5w-40 and if you go for a serious extended blat or a track session that the oil won't shear and lose it's viscosity
As for the brakes I'd have gone for a set of performance pads rather than hoses, I don't think they'll do much with the stock brakes being so good anyway. I've got some EBC redstuffs on the front at the moment and they're great when warmed up (and fine when cold) but the dust has turned my wheels black so I think I'll try DS2500's next time! The other interesting brake upgrades are two-pot legend calipers for increased feel and the interesting brake-stopper thing that stops the bulkhead flexing which allows you to stand on the pedal harder
Oh and if you are in the mood for more bling get the upper rear strut brace if you don't have one already
PS Make sure that honda give you the remainder of your oil back, it's handy for top ups!
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New discs/pads all round will be done a month or so after the service, I have a feeling they are glazed. Most likely go for EBC discs/pads on the front, EBC don't make rears for the Teg IIRC.g0th2000 said:As for the brakes I'd have gone for a set of performance pads rather than hoses, I don't think they'll do much with the stock brakes being so good anyway. I've got some EBC redstuffs on the front at the moment and they're great when warmed up (and fine when cold) but the dust has turned my wheels black so I think I'll try DS2500's next time! The other interesting brake upgrades are two-pot legend calipers for increased feel and the interesting brake-stopper thing that stops the bulkhead flexing which allows you to stand on the pedal harder
Oh and if you are in the mood for more bling get the upper rear strut brace if you don't have one already
PS Make sure that honda give you the remainder of your oil back, it's handy for top ups!
Rear upper strut brace is the next purchase, group buy on ITR-DC2.com
Mods planned:
Rear upper strut brace.
Respray Rear lower strut brace.
Discs/pads all round.
RE010's all round.
98 Spec JDM Manifold.
Hi flow cat.
Spoon B pipe.
Spoon N1.
Going to cost a fair whack
Neil.
-Neil- said:Oils on the Teg to be changed soon, so I've chosen 5 litres of Silkolene Pro S 5W40 at £48
Thats what I use. (or 10 50 in summer) 5l Silkolene on group buys had been costing me £28, though no idea how much from retailers.
You mention below it was actually gearbox oil? Sikolene gearbox (and diff) oil cost me quite a bit more iirc.
I've just realised you are getting BKR6EIX-11. I had a set of these in my JDM and after a couple of minutes of hard driving they would get too hot and the car would start to misfire, i've since put a set of BKR7EIX-11 in and they've been fantastic. I'd recommend you go for the colder grade of plug.
Soldato
- Joined
- 24 Oct 2002
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- 6,242
- Location
- Portsmouth
s0ck said:
Buy 3 bottles at once and it works out about £32 a bottle. thats what I do.
Going down Halfrauds in a bit, I'll see if they've got them.neil-ste said:
JTrickle, I was replying to Fox saying the total price was a bit OTT. I forgot to mention that I'd be buying three bottles each of the MTF and brake fluid
Neil.
Just thinking about the oil in my motor...
Hasn't been changed once since I owned it. No idea when it was last changed either!
Tried to changed it not too long ago but some monkey has used a chisel to get the sump plug off so it's impossible to get the thing off with the proper tools.
Going to have to chisel it off and get a new one which I shall attempt tomorrow!
Hasn't been changed once since I owned it. No idea when it was last changed either!
Tried to changed it not too long ago but some monkey has used a chisel to get the sump plug off so it's impossible to get the thing off with the proper tools.
Going to have to chisel it off and get a new one which I shall attempt tomorrow!
Matt82 said:
Thicker in summer as the fact that the ambient temperature is higher can make the oil thinner still.
Personally I run Motul Xcess 5/40 fully synth all year in my 306 gti-6. I also get mine from Oilman. I can run my car to the red line as often as I like knowing I have a decent oil in the engine that has molecules that wont shear easliy hence keeping the oil in good condition thus keeping the protective qualities until the next change. Think I paid £35 inc P&P last time for 4litres so it isn't overly expensive.
Another bonus with a decent fully synth (I believe there are some that aren't to good) is that you could get away with running past the recommended oil change milage a bit as the oil keeps its lubing qualities longer. You could probably even change the milage you do it at, but I am to scared to do that
Good buy on the Oil. Defo one thing not to skimp on, although there is no harm in buying "cheaper" oil, just as long as you change it more regularly.
I have used Motul oil for the last 3 or 4 changes on my old car, for my new one I'm waiting to buy some Silkolene Pro S from OpieOils.
The benefits mean that it should still work at higher temps, i.e. track use. It doesn't have to be a track day only car, you can use it for normal road use as well. Silkolene and Motul = Proper Oil.
I have used Motul oil for the last 3 or 4 changes on my old car, for my new one I'm waiting to buy some Silkolene Pro S from OpieOils.
The benefits mean that it should still work at higher temps, i.e. track use. It doesn't have to be a track day only car, you can use it for normal road use as well. Silkolene and Motul = Proper Oil.
- Joined
- 3 May 2004
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- 17,744
- Location
- Kapitalist Republik of Surrey
Bored out Mk2 Ford Escort bottom end with full race Cortina pre-crossflow head good for 8000rpm. I just use Castrol GTX at £15 per gallon and it has been fine.
With oil as long as you change it regularly you will have no problems. Let it turn to sludge and you can kiss goodbye to your motor.
I think £200 in oils and exotic plugs is a bit excessive personally and of little advantage.
With oil as long as you change it regularly you will have no problems. Let it turn to sludge and you can kiss goodbye to your motor.
I think £200 in oils and exotic plugs is a bit excessive personally and of little advantage.
Just ordered the oils, total was £90 with discount being a member on ITR-DC2.com
Also booked the car in for a service and cambelt change, looking at around £300 for that and fitting of the braided hoses.
The previous 2 owners have been servicing the car well in advance of the service schedule, so it's all out of kilter for example the 54K service was done at 50K :/
So I'll get her serviced and not stamped as the next space in the service book is for 63K and she's currently on 55K...
Neil.
Also booked the car in for a service and cambelt change, looking at around £300 for that and fitting of the braided hoses.
The previous 2 owners have been servicing the car well in advance of the service schedule, so it's all out of kilter for example the 54K service was done at 50K :/
So I'll get her serviced and not stamped as the next space in the service book is for 63K and she's currently on 55K...
Neil.